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Trailer Bunks
- Thread starter tvnpe
- Start date
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timmyboy76
New Member
this what I did,...took boat to marina, with the new bunks already made and carpeted. Unbolted old bunks, removed the brackets off old bunk, installed on new, and rebolted back up. Might need new bolts to bring, in case old ones are rusted up and need to be cut off with sawzall or hacksaw...
timmyboy76
New Member
hey Tuan..
I just used the old brackets. Unbolted them from old bunks, lined the bunks up, so holes would match up, then installed them.
I guess if brackets are bad, you can get 3/16 or 1/4 metal plate from Home Depot, and make your own, drill 1 hole for bolt to attach to the fixed bracket welded on trailer, and 2 holes on other side once you bend metal..vice and hammer...
I just used the old brackets. Unbolted them from old bunks, lined the bunks up, so holes would match up, then installed them.
I guess if brackets are bad, you can get 3/16 or 1/4 metal plate from Home Depot, and make your own, drill 1 hole for bolt to attach to the fixed bracket welded on trailer, and 2 holes on other side once you bend metal..vice and hammer...
I was just getting on here to discuss bunk-building
I was planning on doing like Timmy said. Have them built and ready to install and take them to the marina.
My question is this. Bunks are currently made with flat of 2X4 facing up. Some boats have edge facing up so the boat rides on the 2" side.
Is there any preference for one way over the other?
Was going to ask about the brackets too. I want some that don't hang below the bottom of the trailer frame.
I was planning on doing like Timmy said. Have them built and ready to install and take them to the marina.
My question is this. Bunks are currently made with flat of 2X4 facing up. Some boats have edge facing up so the boat rides on the 2" side.
Is there any preference for one way over the other?
Was going to ask about the brackets too. I want some that don't hang below the bottom of the trailer frame.
timmyboy76
New Member
Hey Scoop...my opinion, rather have more board covering boat area to hold, also it'll act like suspension, and not be so rugged on bottom of the boat.
If yor guys brackets are hang'n below crossmembers, then get 1/4in flat stock, and if welder aint handy, then drill 2 holes threw frame and bolt new brackets up, thats after you bent the top about 2-3in and put 2 holes in it for the screws to hold the bunks....?
If yor guys brackets are hang'n below crossmembers, then get 1/4in flat stock, and if welder aint handy, then drill 2 holes threw frame and bolt new brackets up, thats after you bent the top about 2-3in and put 2 holes in it for the screws to hold the bunks....?
Got a welder, but since it is submerged, I will use bolts. Then when it all rusts away, I can just bolt on a new one.
I was bouncing back and forth between better support of resting on the edges of the 2x4, vs the less pressure on boat hull of using the flat part. Flat is working now (even though one is flexing a bit, probably gonna find a rotten piece of wood when i pull it off).
I was bouncing back and forth between better support of resting on the edges of the 2x4, vs the less pressure on boat hull of using the flat part. Flat is working now (even though one is flexing a bit, probably gonna find a rotten piece of wood when i pull it off).
You can use 2x4's on end if you want. Use at least 8 footers.I build about 10 boat trailers a year. I use pressure treated boards...for under 24' boats you can use the boards on the flat side, as the weight is spread out. For larger boats I stand the boards up on end and router the edges before I cover then with carpet so it rests better on the boat bottom and not cut through the carpet. The brackets are available at any boat supply or trailer repair shop. The marina's will over charge you. If the brackets are too long cut them to length after you set the boat on them and your happy with its position. I only use galvanized brackets and bolts in either fresh or salt water so they last longer. You could use stainless steel bolts but they are real expensive and will react with the galvanized brackets. For carpet for the bunks, go to a carpet replacement store and check the dumpster for throw away carpet, or ask for used carpet from the store owner, they are more than happy to give you used carpet. You need about 10 foot length and 10" wide to cover the bunks. Use stainless steel staples and staple only on the bottom of the finished bunks, so it won't scratch the hull. The whole job should run you less than $40.00 and a couple hours of time depending on how bad the old hardware is ...I just cut the old bolts off and throw all the old crap away and replace everything new.
Also check out the rest of the trailer like wiring, lights tires and wheel bearings while your at it. Then you know the trailer project is complete.
Karl
Also check out the rest of the trailer like wiring, lights tires and wheel bearings while your at it. Then you know the trailer project is complete.
Karl
Regular carpet? the plastic "astro turf" carpet? or does it matter? I have seen it both ways. Seems the regular stuff is often torn and hanging off in chunks moreso than the astro turf.
Seadoopilot
New Member
NO NO NO , I have left this post alone since I was sure some one would have known the best stuff to use .
True carpet is the best way to go , Teflon bunk boards work great but expensive and it sets your boat even higher as they do not offer adequate support . So you need to fasten them to standard bunks ,
Rollers are great but also set the boat higher . and they need to pivot .
That leaves standard bunks . Now the carpet
Astor turf NNOOOOOOO
OK Carpet , The best is a low cut pile , not loop pile , then you want a synthetic with a teflon stain fighter This makes it slide EZ , synthetic does not rot , Loop pile can snag on minor scratches on the hull , Low cut pile will not snag . You can go to the carpet warehouse and tell them what you want and get some scraps , Attach with a staple gun over contact cement so it wont bunch and burn the edges so it wont unravel
My father used to own a trailer manufacturing business in Iowa . I have built MANY custom trailersincliding my own
timmyboy76
New Member
I just use, indoor/outdoor carpet...1.25 linear ft, then those 1in x 1in metal tacks to secure it to the bunks...been work'n great, done all my trailers that way
Timmy, is that indoor/outdoor like the green plastic stuff? That is what I call "astro turf".
If I am not mistaken, I think that is what is on there now.
I think I can get that cut pile stuff from walmart in a roll for $10.
If I am not mistaken, I think that is what is on there now.
I think I can get that cut pile stuff from walmart in a roll for $10.
timmyboy76
New Member
Scoop...nah, not the astro-turf, think that stuff would wear away, somewhat quik. The indoor/outdoor carpet, thin carpet, in the carpet section, probably be the first row of "samples" they have hang'n for display. Stuff looks like, what they use to carpet offices, warehouses..etc...real thin crap, but works great and CHEAP.
Seadoopilot
New Member
I am just segesting the best stuff to use , All in door out door carpet is synthettic , GOOD the low cut pile is thin stuff but so is low loop pile . Not all In Door Out Door carpet is carpet has the teflon and beleive me you will notice the difference while loading or launching . The boat simply slides Easyer , A anti mould chemical is usually on in door out door carpet but not always . You do want that . If you get the mould on it it will rott the wood faster and spraying bleach on it will also rott the wood faster .
The difference between what I ahve said and just getting the cheepest indoor outdoor carpet will be about $6 total
Your choice
I was much more lazy/cheap than the rest of you...
Grabbed a box of stainless staples, staple gun, large flat screwdriver, and plyers, dewalt cordless drill, and a 7 foot pressure treated board (14.5 foot boats use 7 feet, not 8).
Went to the boat launch, beached the boat, pulled the old staples and carpet and installed the old carpet on the new board. Still works great, no rips/tears, and already had the right cutouts for the brackets (used the old brackets too).
Took me 'bout 25 minutes total.
This year I may do the same for bunk #2... it isn't broken in half like #1, but sags more than the new board
Grabbed a box of stainless staples, staple gun, large flat screwdriver, and plyers, dewalt cordless drill, and a 7 foot pressure treated board (14.5 foot boats use 7 feet, not 8).
Went to the boat launch, beached the boat, pulled the old staples and carpet and installed the old carpet on the new board. Still works great, no rips/tears, and already had the right cutouts for the brackets (used the old brackets too).
Took me 'bout 25 minutes total.
This year I may do the same for bunk #2... it isn't broken in half like #1, but sags more than the new board
OH! Now I know what carpet you guys are talking about. Never even thought of using that stuff.
I am replacing the boards because one of them is flexing more than I like while I drive. I would rather replace it now then have to pull chunks of bracket out of the hull later on...:ack:
I am replacing the boards because one of them is flexing more than I like while I drive. I would rather replace it now then have to pull chunks of bracket out of the hull later on...:ack:
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