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Think my 1999 GTX Limited seized :( Need help

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askin257

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Hello everyone, I would like some help to know what's broken in my engine.
I have a 1999 Sea-Doo GTX Limited with 190 hours on it.

It had some water in it and I thought it was the battery and kept cranking. then took out spark plugs and spat all the water out.
once dry I put a cap of oil in each cylinder and dried the plugs and she started and ran perfect.

Then the next week it rode perfect for 3 hours, then the next day took it out and it stopes working after 10 mins. A lot of rattling and loss of power until the engine just got stuck. Now it only ticks when I press the start button.

I am able to turn the engine over probably 280° by hand from the shaft.
(Removed the head to see Pistons)
One piston moves freely as I turn the engine over and the other piston is jammed but does move a little, (maybe 1cm up and down)

When I shake the ski there is a lot of water in the engine which splashes out of the cylinder when piston is down.

Should I do a full rebuild or just replace the few broken things?

Is it just a bent Conrod? Or?

please your help would be muchly appreciated :)


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Sounds like rebuild or replace. These engines are known for throwing a rod or balance shaft.
Water in there is concerning.
 
best way to know is to pull the engine, remove cyl's, split cases. very likely the crank is toast but you won't know until then.
you'll also find out of the cases are damaged, that would be more bad news.
 
askin257 said:
Is that what hydrolocking is?
Bent the rod because of the water?
Click to expand...

Yup. that would be one of the first things to fail.

For example:
[video=youtube;Iyve725P550]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyve725P550[/video]
 
The engine did receive some water a week before it happened.
I did the same thing in the video until no water spat out, dropped a cap of oil in each piston through the spark plug hole and it kicked and ran fine.
would you say all the water in the engine right now is from last week and it's built pressure and hydrolocked?

thanks for all your help everyone


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And it always happens in the nicest weather. Can you buy a rebuilt engine block in your region? This would put you back in the water fast now that you have removed the engine.

Benji.
 
In Melbourne hard to find engines and people who repair :(
So costly :(,
Best I could do is $2000 AUD swapping my engine for a fully reconditioned engine.

Thinking about rebuilding it my self, need a new crank, rods, pistons, gaskets and sealant.

Would anybody know where I can can get these for a good price?

Thanks for all the comments and help everyone, muchly appreciated


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[MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] would have all the parts but shipping might be crazy. A reman engine swap might be your best bet



95 XP800!!!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Thanks so much AdamXP800

I will quote it up and that will decide my options.
fingers crossed :)



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2,000.00$ AUD is not bad in my opinion. In Canada, our exchange rate is just the same as yours and a rebuilt engine cost me around 1,600.00$ (plus 15% sales taxes) for a 717 engine last summer.

I believe this would be your fastest move unless you are a skilled mechanics with plenty of spare time on your hands.

Benji.
 
Thanks for all the messages.
turns out shipping from America is way to expensive.

Any shop will ask for $2500 to rebuild it.

I can get new WSM parts from Queensland, Australia
New crank with rods $650 AUD
And a top end rebuild kit (Pistons, rings, clips, pins and all gaskets and sealant)
$460 AUD
That's totals $1,110 AUD
which I can rebuild myself.

But this same place sells reconditioned engines complete for $1,495 AUD (swap over)

I have decided to do this as I will get 12 months warranty and I'll be back in the water ASAP :)

check out their site:
http://jetskiparts.com.au



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Thanks benji

Being my first ski, just wanted to weigh my options.
thanks for your help :)
Time to organise the new engine and get back in the water [emoji16]


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When you put it back together, beware of the rotary valve timing (guess this model has one). Make sure the timing is right or your engine will run like s*h*i*t.

Benji.
 
benjilafouine said:
When you put it back together, beware of the rotary valve timing (guess this model has one). Make sure the timing is right or your engine will run like s*h*i*t.

Benji.
Click to expand...
no rotary valve on a 951, it is a reed engine.

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Oh perfect, good to know.
Got a bit worried for a minute.

Any other tips while installing the new reco motor with my carbs and bits and pieces etc?


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I haven't read your entire thread but I would clean or rebuild the carbs, replaced old fuel lines if it hasn't been done, replace the little oil injection lines, clean the inside of the hull with cleaner. Don't forget to bleed the oil pump. Mix the first tank of gas 40:1 a well as run the oil injection.

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thanks so much for the advice.
I've had a friend with the same ski, who's oil pump failed and seized his engine.

He now pre mixes 40:1 directly into the fuel tank.
Would this be a good idea to do in case the pump was to fail?
Thanks

Ash


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the opinions are split on that...

80% say not to worry about the pump, they never fail.

20%, (I think we can put your friend in this group) say that although you burn more oil, its CHEAPER than a new engine !!!!
 
I think it is a very small percentage that fail. Typically the little oil lines from the pump to the intake fail because most people don't know they should be replaced after 10-15 years.
The seadoo oil pumps are extremely reliable.
 
For the carbs rebuild, beware. Many kits are cheap and do not have the good springs. Buy original OEM parts (Mikuni?) and do not use the springs from the kit unless you are very sure they are the right ones. That was my second ordeal after my engine break... And this will make your ski run like what I mentioned before in this thread...

I am sure some people in here can give you more complete advice on that.

Benji.
 
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