The X4 Thread

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
haha flying I texted you about buying that ski a couple weeks ago and you emailed me pictures. Its funny to meet people on here youve already met on craigslist. Glad to know I didn't consider buying it since its been nothing but problems for you ;)
 
blairwill4 said:
haha flying I texted you about buying that ski a couple weeks ago and you emailed me pictures. Its funny to meet people on here youve already met on craigslist. Glad to know I didn't consider buying it since its been nothing but problems for you ;)
Click to expand...
Haha, it's an X4! There is no such thing as "no problems". You buy an X4, you fix what needs to be fixed, and you have a good time until the next problem. Let's face it guys, our fun comes at the expense of our time. But damn it, I can't come up with a better use of time/money.
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
Haha, it's an X4! There is no such thing as "no problems". You buy an X4, you fix what needs to be fixed, and you have a good time until the next problem. Let's face it guys, our fun comes at the expense of our time. But damn it, I can't come up with a better use of time/money.
Click to expand...

Lol but when he's selling it for not a penny less than 2500 telling everyone it's builttttt and saying there's nothing wrong with it..... Then it's a little different
 
Alright, point taken. IMO, the most important things to verify is that the motor has new bearings: Crank, upper and lower connecting rod. I've had both c. rod bearings break. While the crank is a PITA to replace, a broken upper c. rod bearing will potentially wreck the whole motor: head, block, and rotary valve. Once those needles fall apart and out of the cage, they will rain death anywhere they go. Never had this happen on the new style bearings, but the old ones w/o the cage were a nightmare. If he's built the motor and the ski is cosmetically good, it might be worth it. Keep in mind though that something is worth only as much as someone else is willing to pay for it ;)
 
blairwill4 said:
Lol but when he's selling it for not a penny less than 2500 telling everyone it's builttttt and saying there's nothing wrong with it..... Then it's a little different
Click to expand...

Calm down bud. Never said it was built and never said id take a penny less than 2500 when it was for sale. if you had read my for sale thread it was in to be fixed before it was stored for the winter. it took 3 months for the shop to get it in and it was way too cold to ride when it was done. My main concern is making sure its tuned correctly as im not that experienced with twin carbs. I also never stated there's nothing wrong with it. As far as i know there isn't any issues as of now and the shop warranties its work. Coming on here acting like a 4 year old and saying asinine things is ridiculous and uncalled for. Also why are you claiming I said its "builttttt"? As stated it has a factory spec rebuilt engine (have receipts) with the LIGHT MODS as listed and pictured. It's no longer for sale anyhow so stop being outlandish kid.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Flying96XP said:
sorry it took so long. here's the pic of my stem which I believe is all factory outside the bar.
Click to expand...

Doesn't look too bad.

Where do you house the beeper? Care to share some more pics? It might help us X4 owners who want the look of a UMI setup but can't justify the cost.
 
If you need just a set of just umi bars I have a brand new set for sale.

300.jpg


305.jpg


301.jpg


541.jpg
 
Krispy said:
Doesn't look too bad.

Where do you house the beeper? Care to share some more pics? It might help us X4 owners who want the look of a UMI setup but can't justify the cost.
Click to expand...

It is zip-tied up front by the MPEM. Pretty much any aftermarket bars will work as long as they are not over sized tubes. Id Recommend a knurled center to help grip the goose neck. Other than that its a simple bolt on. What other pictures would you like?
 
JSG I had your bars in mind when I typed my question. What are you asking for them?


Flying96XP said:
It is zip-tied up front by the MPEM. Pretty much any aftermarket bars will work as long as they are not over sized tubes. Id Recommend a knurled center to help grip the goose neck. Other than that its a simple bolt on. What other pictures would you like?
Click to expand...



I was just looking for some overall pics of the steering area of the ski to see if I like the look for myself.
 
I just read about 30 pages of this thread, good info, I recently picked up a 95 SP and a 97 SPX, the SP runs but needs minor things, etc, the SPX needs a engine but will have one on the way hopefully next week. I am pretty sure I have UMI handle bars, aftermarket flame arrestors (may get rid of these) and a pull down step up bar on the SPX. They both need to be re-polished and cleaned but I like doing that stuff. I picked both of them up with a very nice stainless steel double trailer with toolbox (not a spec of rust) for $850, I will get pics this weekend.
 
RebuiltSeadooBaffles said:
I just read about 30 pages of this thread, good info, I recently picked up a 95 SP and a 97 SPX, the SP runs but needs minor things, etc, the SPX needs a engine but will have one on the way hopefully next week. I am pretty sure I have UMI handle bars, aftermarket flame arrestors (may get rid of these) and a pull down step up bar on the SPX. They both need to be re-polished and cleaned but I like doing that stuff. I picked both of them up with a very nice stainless steel double trailer with toolbox (not a spec of rust) for $850, I will get pics this weekend.
Click to expand...

Welcome and congrats! That's a really good deal.
 
Hey guys...new here. Picked up a 95 xp for $450 back in sept. It had been sitting in neighbors yard for a over a year so it was a bit rough on the exterior. Put a new batt on it and it started right up but carbs were clogged and still had the old fuel lines. Got about 10 rides in it over the winter and two weeks ago lost compression in a the rear cylinder. Now i have a new (rebuilt) motor in it and broke it in this weekend...ran really good. Up to this point I have changed the fuel lines, cleaned the carbs, new impeller, had an exhaust leak fixed, and replaced the engine. Is there anything I should look out for next? Any suggestions on where to get a new seat cover (blacktip) and how to shine up the exterior?
 
Had my X4 out for the first time this year today. Oh how i've missed that kick in the pants accleration! Was also my first time out with the full UMI setup and a XO. The XO feels stout out of the hole and is holeshotting my buddies 04 RXP slightly. My MPH was 55.7 which is down from the stocker or the modified stock impeller that was in it. Don't know if it was a impros job or what. That was upstream on a river with some current. I'm going to wait until I put it on the lake before I think about changing back to by original impeller.

I need to adjust the steering on the UMI. I could turn hard left but turning right not so much. Kinda scary on a narrow river. :thumbsup:
 
Please report back your findings when you put it on the lake. I take it the holeshot is noticeably better than the stocker?
 
IDoSeaDoo said:
Please report back your findings when you put it on the lake. I take it the holeshot is noticeably better than the stocker?
Click to expand...

I'll for sure report back. As far as a better hole shot that is hard to say because this was the first ride this year and the first ride on the XO. I've been riding my GTX some so anything will feel stronger than that couch! Also the stock impeller that was in my ski has been tweaked. The trailing edges had been repitched and sharpened. I dont know who did it or what was actually done to it, but it was obivously different than the other 787 stocker I have.
 
My seat cover should get here today and I'm wondering what everyone's opinions are on install. Is it better to remove the factory cover or go over top? Also what staple gun and staples is everyone using? I'm definitely going with a Monel staple just curios as to size/width/gauge etc.
 
Take the old fabric off and pull all the old staples out. I use T50 stainless, but only because that's the most common one I could find. I always want to be able to jump in my car and get replacements anywhere. 3/8" should do you just fine
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
New PWC owner
Replies
10
Views
187
SabotageR1
S
1
97 XP 800 No power to gauge cluster
Replies
2
Views
138
1099ezg
1
1
97' XP 800 Stalling when accelerating
Replies
10
Views
279
Grim
Grim
Owenl
No spark 1995 seadoo xp
Replies
0
Views
152
Owenl
Owenl
C
1998 Seadoo xpl taking on a large amount of water
Replies
0
Views
376
Champ1
C
Back
Top