The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread

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Location
Canada
#76
Can you tell me if you purchased a specific size JIS screwdrive ? I've looked on ebay and looks like the 2 larger suppliers are Vessel and Horizon and they offer different size tips or sets with different sizes.
I believe its a #2 jis screwdriver. Somebody correct me if im wrong.
 


Messages
39
Likes
2
Location
Lake of the Ozarks
Water Crafts
2001 Seadoo GTX
#77
I have a question about the low and high adjusting screws. So my seadoo ran well before getting into the rebuild process, so I am curious to whether or not I can leave the screws alone and still effectively clean the carbs and rebuild? I read this tutorial over and over and I didn't see why the screws were removed am I missing something? Also how did you count the turns of up to 5/8th (I'm referring to your blue sticky note numbers)?

Oh and my carbs look quite different I have the BN46I twin carbs in the 2001 Seadoo GTX. They have so many more lines hooked up to it. I have identified the return and supply fuel lines but there are these super tiny black hoses connecting to both of them and I'm not sure what these are (I think they are vacuum lines but not sure).

Thank you great tutorial!
 
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Messages
32
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0
Location
Canada
#79
I just did my carb rebuild (as per this thread)...and it went great. This was incredibly helpful...thank you.
I re used the oem springs and rebuilt with oem kits and new needle/seats (1.2). I got a pop off pressure of 50 psi? Is that too high? The spec was 36-60. Its a 96 spx with a 720 engine. Seems to run pretty smooth. Havent done a good wot plug chop yet.
 
Messages
8
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0
Location
usa
Water Crafts
1995 Sea-Doo XP
#80
I just did my 95 717 and my pop off was about 50psi too. I thought this was too high so I subbed springs and whatnot till I got about 38. Everything is good, runs strong EXCEPT it tends to flood and is hard to start when warm, the needle does hold pressure but since I set my pop off so low, it could still be leaking if it's supposed to be 15 psi more than I have it set. Running at WOT for any more than 10 seconds, it just cuts out until I let off the throttle. Adding choke kills it completely at WOT. So when I get time I'm gonna set my pop off back to the upper 40s. Here's something from SBT I found that says pop off on those models should be higher. The Sea-Doo manual I have says it should be low 20s which I can't believe and we have determined is a misprint. Since yours is running good, I'm gonna increase pop off and double check the fuel selector for air leaks.
 

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sretooh

New Member
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6
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0
Water Crafts
95 XP
96 SPX
#81
crackenzag, It sounds like we’ve had identical summers. I bought two mid 90s Sea-Doos on a double trailer and have been wrenching on them ever since. There are a few miss prints in the manual and you found one of them. I’ve rebuilt one carburetor and about to rebuild the upper and lower end of an engine. On the other one I’m replacing the wiring and all the bearings in the jet pump. One of mine had a hard time starting, the one with the carb rebuild. My hard starting issue was the rotary valve clearance. Your engine that you’re getting upper and rebuilt on, I would check your rotary valve clearance.
 
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208
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4
Water Crafts
1996 SEADOO SPEEDSTER
#82
When installing the round check valves, I broke through the rubber grommets with my 2.5 mm round ended T handle Allen wrench..I also “bent” the check valve itself to where there is a little bit of lift on either end of it due to where it bent in the middle from me pushing the grommet through the check valve.
I ordered 2 more check valves and grommets. (All genuine mikuni).
Is there a trick to getting those grommets to pop through the check valves without bending the check valves? They are pretty flimsy. I’ll try more grease next time of course but any advice is appreciated.

Thanks so much,

Donnie
 

etemplet

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,470
Likes
93
Location
Louisiana
Water Crafts
1996 SPI, 1996 GTX, 1997 GTX
#83
When installing the round check valves, I broke through the rubber grommets with my 2.5 mm round ended T handle Allen wrench..I also “bent” the check valve itself to where there is a little bit of lift on either end of it due to where it bent in the middle from me pushing the grommet through the check valve.
I ordered 2 more check valves and grommets. (All genuine mikuni).
Is there a trick to getting those grommets to pop through the check valves without bending the check valves? They are pretty flimsy. I’ll try more grease next time of course but any advice is appreciated.

Thanks so much,

Donnie
Where did you get jet the check valves? I'd like to have some spares because like you... I have bent more than one. I don't like installing those things at all. I even purchased the so called tool with no luck. I use a really small screwdriver flat blade to tuck the rubber through the hole. As you know... if it slips... the valve is done. I've been thinking about machining my own design grommet installer but even with that... you can't push very hard or it will pop through.
 
Messages
259
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22
Water Crafts
(2) SeaDoo SPX - 1997 (sold)
SeaDoo Speedster SK - 1999
(2) SeaDoo Spark 90hp - 2016
#86
Man I really appreciate the people on this page. I know how to rebuild carbs but damn, you guys have some seriously detailed instructions that make the project a piece of cake.
 

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