Swapping pumps to find cavitation and engine race

[illru]

Hi,

Been working out the bugs on my new-to-me 97 Speedster. I have replaced the wear rings, carbon rings, reset both carbs to factory and mostly synced the throttle cables. Also replaced the bilge pump and tighten all threw haul hoses to keep the drink out. All of this has done wonders!
I have to thank forum with all the knowledge that people have left that has gotten me this far.

BUT!

I still have a problem with the port engine racing ahead of the starboard when bring the boat onto plane. Once on plane I can move the throttles to any speed I wish. Thou the throttles are never synced.
Also the boat tops out at 55 but with having to pull back on the port side throttle a bit to sync the RPMs at 7000. Both idle fine at 1500.

The port carb was my first thought but then I read in a thread that the impeller my be past its prime and causing cavitation. Both impellers looked OK'ish.

I'd like know if I would have any issues swapping the port and the starboard pumps with each other? Would like to see if the starboard side engine starts to act up. In turn making the impeller(s) the next part to replace. If the problem stays on the port side where should I look next?

Thanks!
-Dave

 

[kustomkarl]

I would just check the wear ring clearance, rather than going to the extreme to swapping the pumps assembly's. Here is info on the pump clearance.

Wear Ring clearance for your seadoo 1.0 mm or (.040in) Measure the clearance at the center of the impeller blades, with a 12” long gauge. Measure the clearance from the venturi side of the jet pump.

I hope this helps.

Karl

 

[Dr Honda]

Yup... what he said....


BUT... if you have cavitation to the point where the engine revs, and it feels like it's making minimum thrust... I would point my finger at the carbon seal. When they decide to leak... you loose almost all thrust.

 

[illru]

Doing the swap

Ring to impeller gap right on.
I'm swapping the pumps.
Will post back with finding.

-dave

 

[illru]

Carb rings are new on both sides, unless I messed up installing the port side. Going to check it when I swap the pumps.

Thanks!
-dave

 

[illru]

So...

Swapping the pumps worked great, but I think for the wrong reason.
I just had it out on the water and for the first time every thing worked right. (Minus the throttle cables being out of sync)
But after about hour I throttled up from a dead stop to 7000rpms and went no where. :banghead:
Idled back to ramp, onto trailer and on home. Started pulling the pumps off and found some of my bolts and nuts are now loose. Cold water maybe?
So...
Can some one point me to the doc or tell me to torque specs for the 16 bolts and nuts for the pump and cone. I can't seem to find them.

Thanks!
-Dave

 

[illru]

**solved**

**SOLVED**
My ride shoes were leaking like a sieve. Pulled them off with out even a fight and found water between the shoes and someones bad gasket fix. (I think one can use TOO MUCH gasket sealer. :ack Also pulled the pump mounts and resealed every thing. The boat POPS out of the water now.

Now just need to fix the out of sync throttle cables.

-dave

 

[RFoster130]

Good deal, I was actually gonna post the next logical thing would be the ride plate leaking. Glad your all fixed.