• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Supercharger tools

Status
Not open for further replies.

68ragtop

Well-Known Member
Any preference on what tool kit to buy for rebuilding? I see them for $50 - $100, But I am not sure if they are all the same, or if I am getting something more for my money. Don't want to save $50 & then throw the tools away after they fail, but also do't want to throw money away if they are all similar?

Thanks!
 
I got the S/C tool kit from SBT and it seems to work good except for the wrench it's a POS the handle flexes really easily and feels like it's going to twist and strip the collar. I bought a standard 1" open ended wrench and had a buddy machine it down to fit on the collar works great with no flex and much cheaper than the other options out there.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0702.jpg
    IMG_0702.jpg
    583.7 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_0703.jpg
    IMG_0703.jpg
    651.6 KB · Views: 44
I'll sell you my tool kit. I tried. I made the mistake of not getting the good oem seadoo kit. I beat up a dealer for the new beefed up one for $866.
 
What kit do you have? I am interested, let me know what you have & are thinking.

Thanks,
 
What kit do you have? I am interested, let me know what you have & are thinking.

Thanks,
I have the tool kit for the 2004-2006 RXP or RXT. Maybe more years after 06. $35 plus USPS shipping. Plus I did the machined wrench thing additionally.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have the tool kit for the 2004-2006 RXP or RXT. Maybe more years after 06. $35 plus USPS shipping. Plus I did the machined wrench thing additionally.

I tried sending you a PM, but I don't think its working. I send it & there is nothing in my sent folders...
I'll try once more
 
View attachment 24951
Sent reply and email in private message.

Thank you for working this out with me & sending the tools out so swiftly! It's very much appreciated!

My box of seadoo parts should arrive later next week!

Like assembling any engine, It's obvious that cleanliness is of the utmost importance in a rebuild of these high rpm units. The service manual notes 45,000 RPMS! When I assemble engines, I clean my workspace, bench & tools as if I was doing brain surgery (something I am not qualified to do;)) I wear rubber gloves & freshly washed clothes too. one spec of gritty dirt can be the beginning of the end IMO. I have a friend who races off road professionally, they have a clean room for rebuilding shocks for this same reason. I think sometimes that aspect of rebuilding anything with tight tolerances is overlooked by many hobbyists & can be the cause of future failures.

With the experience you had, I am glad I didn't order an aftermarket kit. that's a bummer. you do it right & get failed by the components.
I also read that these latest BRP kits are good for 200 hours?:o
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So what are you guys using to seal the case halves? Loctite 5910, or something like three bond 1194?
The original stuff looks like a cross between std black RTV & the right stuff.
 
I do believe it is black RTV gasket maker. You can use the stuff that is O2 sensor approved because of the aluminum.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How can I be sure that there will be no force to the balls in the shaft bearing when pressing it into the housing? Manual says to heat the housing & press in the shaft in. If the outer race of the bearing doesn't drop in easy, this is going to put some force on the balls & I won't have anyway of knowing it happened.

Worrying too much? It's the one part of the procedure that the balls will see the pressure of the bearing going into the housing. HHhhmmmmmm.
 
It's together, But I don't feel good about it. I wish I would have heated the housing & pushed in one of the old bearings to see how easy they go into the heated housing before I did anything. I would imagine it doesn't take a whole lot of force to dimple the races in these little bearings & I am not sure I got it hot enough with a heat gun. So pushing in the shaft, the engine side bearing got some lateral force applied, but I don't know how much. Now its really bugging me & I want to tear it back apart & order another set of bearings.............
 
It's together, But I don't feel good about it. I wish I would have heated the housing & pushed in one of the old bearings to see how easy they go into the heated housing before I did anything. I would imagine it doesn't take a whole lot of force to dimple the races in these little bearings & I am not sure I got it hot enough with a heat gun. So pushing in the shaft, the engine side bearing got some lateral force applied, but I don't know how much. Now its really bugging me & I want to tear it back apart & order another set of bearings.............

What's peace of mind worth?
 
I guess whats bothering me is these little bitty bearings spin 45K RPM's & the balls have to push the outer race into the housing on the engine side. I know the heat expands it, but after I had it in, the heat dissipated so fast it was hardly warm. For the $50 in bearings I'm going to do it one more time. Otherwise its going to be in the back of my mind every time I run it. Yea, probably a wast of time & money.......
 
For the record, I guess I could have left it together. I sure wish I would have tested the fit of that bearing, then my mind would have been at ease. I heated up the housing to 140 degrees & the bearing slides in & out of the housing with zero force. So, it would have been just fine. But, to test this, I had to push the bearings out so now I have to replace them anyway.

It's feels like breaking a piece of glass, just to see if it will actually crack.. ;)

I wonder If I have to order the seadoo bearings? They are a FAG 6200.C3 They seem to be available all over the place. (provided they are the same)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for helpful info. Where did you get the bearings? I just finished rebuilds on my '05 gtx and '08 rxtx and didn't notice the heat instructions before pressing until after the first build. After reading here and other threads I felt comfortable it was ok but upon completing both, there was some end play. Is this normal? The rxtx charger didnt seem to have any.
 
I would like very much to send my SC to PWCMuscle. I believe 415 USD worth money. But my problem is to send and to receive it again in my country, due customs delay and some times heavy taxes (even on part which was sent to repair).

so I would like to ask you guys:

With proper tools and the rebuild kit, can I do it my self (have previous experience on Car mechanics).

thanks
 
The original bearings that were new came in the latest BRP rebuild kit. Then, I ordered a 2nd set from my BRP dealer as I felt I might have compromised them.

But to answer the question, I don't feel the SC rebuild is very difficult but they are a little touchy. It would definitely be a plus to have done one or two, before I would say its worth doing, or its easy. I made a mistake on mine & cost me a set of bearings. The workspace must be as clean as a surgery table too or its going to have a short life. In my case, I would have been better off sending it to somebody like hfGreg as he offers a pretty good price with oem parts. But, If your a hobbyist like myself you might find it entertaining or rewarding to do it yourself. Not a big money saver, especially if your only going to do one, or two.
 
The original bearings that were new came in the latest BRP rebuild kit. Then, I ordered a 2nd set from my BRP dealer as I felt I might have compromised them.

But to answer the question, I don't feel the SC rebuild is very difficult but they are a little touchy. It would definitely be a plus to have done one or two, before I would say its worth doing, or its easy. I made a mistake on mine & cost me a set of bearings. The workspace must be as clean as a surgery table too or its going to have a short life. In my case, I would have been better off sending it to somebody like hfGreg as he offers a pretty good price with oem parts. But, If your a hobbyist like myself you might find it entertaining or rewarding to do it yourself. Not a big money saver, especially if your only going to do one, or two.

You´re right.
I´m considering also buy a newone, since in the end of the day it will cost same or less due customs issues.

The questions are:
- Would a new unit runs more than 100hours?
- Can I buy an upgraded one for more horsepower (maybe with 42lbs injectors), in my 185hp engine? if yes, which one please?

Thanks
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top