Supercharger Service

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10forty2

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Alright...whoever said just get in there and do it........well, yeah, that's what you have to do...BUT...whoever designed the engine compartment on the Speedster 200......should be hit between the eyes a couple of good hits. DAMMIT!! Spent most of the afternoon pulling the superchargers off so I can send the in to PWC Muscle for a rebuild. They look to be in pristine shape, but as a 2005 model, they are WAYYY overdue for rebuilding. One hint for those who are thinking about doing it....remove the exhaust on both engines FIRST! Definitely gives a lot more room to work! Oh, and being a contortionist helps too! And, No...I didn't remove the engine bay/sun deck cover....the cover didn't hinder anything in the open position and would have only added more stress to figure out how to get it back installed with just my wife and I trying to do it.

Next stop, oil/filter change and adding a voltage meter so I can tell if the rectifier is charging. (Got left hanging out in the middle of the lake last season when the fuse melted and the battery went dead. No indication until the light came on and the engines stopped about 30 seconds later.) Then, when the SCs return, I can hook everything back up and do a a test run. Hopefully I can wait until next season for the wear ring replacement. Maybe I'll get her out on the water before Summer's up.....
 
meh, it isn't that bad of a job, I can think of worse jobs...;)

No doubt there are worse jobs....it's pretty straightforward, but if somebody had of told me to remove the exhaust FIRST, it would have gone a lot smoother! It LOOKS like you can get in there pretty easy with the exhaust in place, and I did get teh retaining bolts removed, but there isn't enough room to remove the SC until you remove the exhaust. Buttoning back up now that I made access will just be a matter of folding myself back in half to get back inside the engine compartment and reconnect everything. Lesson learned the hard way, but learned nonetheless....... :)
 
When I 1st did mine, I didn't remove the exhaust until I realized I needed the extra room to fully remove the SCer. It took me a few more minutes to remove the necessary exhaust hoses to finally remove the SCer. Took me about an hour and half to remove the 2 SCers.
 
When I 1st did mine, I didn't remove the exhaust until I realized I needed the extra room to fully remove the SCer. It took me a few more minutes to remove the necessary exhaust hoses to finally remove the SCer. Took me about an hour and half to remove the 2 SCers.
Hi Can you tell me how many hours people are typically doing the supercharger rebuild? My dealer is telling me 200 hrs, I have a 2012 challenger 180..
 
Hi Can you tell me how many hours people are typically doing the supercharger rebuild? My dealer is telling me 200 hrs, I have a 2012 challenger 180..
Everything I'm reading says every 100 hours, but I think that is referencing SCs with ceramic washers. The rebuild service is supposed to use stainless washers that will last longer, hence the 200 hours service time. AT least I THINK that's what I remember reading........ ;-)
 
ceramic washer and titanium washer style kits were supposed to be 100hrs, titanium washer kits came out in 2008 in pwc and 2009 in the boats. Moly coated steel washer style are good for 200hrs I think that kit came out around 2011. I would definitely change a ceramic washer style kit out much sooner, I have seen them fail at 40hrs, the titanium washer kits I have never seen any failures. when I mean failure I don't mean the clutch starting to slip, I mean when the washers blow into bits, when they start to slip that is just wear and depending on how you drive it will depend on how soon you need to rebuild it, saying that if it's working good and the clutch still checks out to spec. you could get more hours out of it than what the service spec says.
 
Titanium washers, on the boats are good for 200 hours. On a ski, id do em sooner.

yes, the titanium washer kits could last for 200hrs or even more, but the recommended service life on them is 100hrs, I have seen titanium washer kits start to slip with less than 100hrs but that is relevant to how the boat is used, the only reason I would rebuild a titanium washer kit sooner is if it didn't pass the slip clutch test or if there was a performance loss noticed. But if it is still passing the slip clutch test I would keep driving it.
 
Thank you for contacting BRP.

In response to your request, we recently revised the recommended maintenance on the 2011-2012
Sea-Doo supercharger. The new requirement is now 200 hours, irrespective of the number of years.

Thank you for your time.


Jonathan
Customer Service
Service à la Clientèle
BRP
75, rue J-A Bombardier | Sherbrooke | QC | Canada | J1L 1W3
T +1.819.566.3366 | F +1.819.566.3062 | US +1.715.848.4957
 
No doubt there are worse jobs....it's pretty straightforward, but if somebody had of told me to remove the exhaust FIRST, it would have gone a lot smoother! It LOOKS like you can get in there pretty easy with the exhaust in place, and I did get teh retaining bolts removed, but there isn't enough room to remove the SC until you remove the exhaust. Buttoning back up now that I made access will just be a matter of folding myself back in half to get back inside the engine compartment and reconnect everything. Lesson learned the hard way, but learned nonetheless....... :)


How did you position yourself to remove the supercharger etc? I’m currently 1/2 way through replacing mine in a 2009 Challenger 180. I have to lie across the engine to reach the back of it to get at the exhaust and supercharger but that can’t be the best way. I tried to squeeze myself under the rear seats but I don’t think I’d ever get out if I was able to get back there. I’m interested to know how you went about doing the work on your boat.
 
How did you position yourself to remove the supercharger etc? I’m currently 1/2 way through replacing mine in a 2009 Challenger 180. I have to lie across the engine to reach the back of it to get at the exhaust and supercharger but that can’t be the best way. I tried to squeeze myself under the rear seats but I don’t think I’d ever get out if I was able to get back there. I’m interested to know how you went about doing the work on your boat.
I crawled inside the engine bay and sat on the edge of the bay with my feet dangling and/or resting on the bottom of the boat. Being a contortionist would definitely help, but I'm not one... LOL! It was NOT an easy position to be in and I promise, I was VERY sore for several days afterward. There is probably a little more space in the engine bay of the Speedster 200 that I have, comapred to what I'm seeing in the pictures of your 180, so I may have a slight advantage in that arena. It was much easier once I had the exhaust removed and more of the boat hull was available to stand/squat on, but when it was time to button everything back up, footing got scarce again. Actually, changing the oil/filter was just about as daunting a task as removing/replacing the superchargers. I can almost see why the local shop wanted close to $400 for an oil change.
 
I have the challenger 210 SE and what I ended up doing it getting a long piece of oak wood board, I had laying around, and placed it along the width of the engine compartment, resting the edges on the side. I had both ends wrapped up with a towel as to not scratch the fiberglass and allow me to slide the board around just enough as I needed to but also stay still when working. With that, I could lay down on the board, placing my full body weight on it, over the back of the engine bay. From there, started working on my stomach and popping my head down to see where I'm working at for both engines. Made things a lot more convenient and a way easier to access the back of the engine without having to worry about resting on the engine or touching anything I shouldn't. I would recommend adding some padding along the length of the board where you will lay down, as it did make my ribs sore after some time. But all in all, was really helpful!
 
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