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Your just building your skis with too much power and riding them too hard.

Also you should grease your carrier bearing in the future:thumbsup:
 
Up at Raystown, having a blast due to some 30+ mph winds, causing 2-3 foot chop.

Nearing the end of the day, when I'm spinning in circles, ski slanted over around 90 degrees to the side.

Running maybe 2-3,000 RPM. THUD. Engine. STOPS. My heart sinks. Hydro lock?! I've done this 1,000 times. There is no water the in the hull. I think maybe some was trapped in the air box?

Remove the plugs on the water. Attempt to crank. Nope. doesn't BUDGE. shuts off the gauges/MPEM.

Tow it about 4 miles in against the wind at idle. Rope was too short to tow on plane. Took FOREVER...

get it home (3 hours later). Under the assumption of water ingestion, remove oil tank, remove air horns, remove air box. remove carbs. remove carb adapters. remove Reeds. remove raves. Nothing. Still won't BUDGE.

Notice carrier bearing is rusted. Remove jet pump. Jet pump spins like butter.

Remove c-clip. (hopefully no one was watching as it looked like I was standing behind my ski and having my way with it... more than usual).

Shaft. Won't Budge. (remove)...

Tie rope to shaft. attach rope to 1200lb riding John Deere lawn mower I use to move skis around.

Nope. So, getting to the point of the rope BREAKING. I guess I have to cut it. I keep hoping that I can cut it in far enough that I can remove the bearing without having to remove the ENGINE to get the coupler under the seat apart.

FML.

So, I try my sawz-all. It's a cheap one, but it makes a dent in it. This is an aftermarket shaft from OSD parts... $120 or so a few years ago.

No go. I try a new blade... 5 min later... no real progress.

Break out... the angle grinder and let the sparks fly!

At this point, I've resigned myself to replacing the bellow thing, the carbon ring, etc. (they are all 14 years old).

Angle grinder is shooting sparks at plastic tubing, so I wrap that with some leather gloves.

Angle grinder slips to the right, scraping a big ol' hole in my bilge pump. There goes $50.

I have the bearing housing loose at this point, so I can spin the shaft, I cut in about 1/4, spin shaft, cut, spin, etc.

Well, I don't know what company makes this shaft... but DAMN is it strong. when I finally get it out, the thing is freaking heavy and spotless... you know, other than where I had to use an angle grinder to CUT IT OUT OF MY SKI.

So yea, I've ordered a new OSD setup, that they state is better than OEM, and yes, I did grease this bearing every fall... but I guess like most 14 year olds, it would rather ruin your day than work...

I should have all the parts by Thurs, back on the water by fri...

stupid toys...
 
mikidymac said:
Like I said, sounds like someone was slacking on their maintenance. LOL, just giving you a hard time.
Click to expand...

I think greasing it, is what killed it.

The OEM one is a double seal, and according to the OSD parts site, when you overgrease it, it blows out the seal, and water gets in the bearing.

THey sell a kit that's a single seal, so you can see the grease, and know when it's 'full'.

I bet I over greased it :(

bearings are great at 7,000 RPM, then THUD full on lock.

Not even a slowing down or wearing. Just LOCK.
 
Osd installs the seal backwards in the carrier. So when you pump too much grease the seal let's it weep. The way the factory installs it you can hydraulically push the seal out of the carrier.
 
and that thing is a PITA to do since you have to setup the alignment tool to get the bearing lined up correctly in the housing. the OSD seal is nice since you can pump it till it leaks a little so you know its good to go.
 
Last time I did one (another XP) , i just put the carrier in loose, put the jet pump in, spun it over, and bolted down the carrier... basically using the jet pump / driveshaft to align it...
 
OSD one on all my skis, takes exactly 1.5 pumps and a little grease is exposed out the front letting you know you are good to go



Rob
 
One point five huh?

Anyway, I got most of my XP back together last night. New shaft, new carrier, new bellows new carbon ring, new stainless thingy.

When I went to slide the shaft in, I greased the end where it meets the coupler under the seat. This accidentally got grease on the carbon ring. The oversized stainless piece from OSD has it so tight against the carbon ring, I can't really get in there w/a rag. I don't want to hit it w/brake cleaner as that might damage the rubber bellows.

I think some simple green could cut the grease.... how big of a deal is this? I figure with use the layer of grease between them will simply work its way out... right?

I'm waiting on a new bildge pump and air box that come tonight, and it should be back to running condition.

I tested the air box for water tightness / tested the one way valves on the bottom by filling it (outside the ski) with water. The valves dropped a stream of water no problem. but the whole thing was dripping from the bottom. After 20 dozen installs. I think it cracked along the bottom seal... which would allow water IN from the bottom... so I got a new one...
 
I had a friend in the 90's that bought a 97' XP brand new and would grease the carbon ring when he ran it out of the water. It never leaked so I assume yours will be fine.

I hope you were able to get one of the 2002 air boxes with the cool fogging port.
 
I'm not worried about the fogging port, to winterize, I remove the spark plugs, hold the oil pump wide open, and crank the starter, which floods the engine with oil. well, not flood, but coats.

I also use fogging spray down the RAVEs, since I remove them to clean them.

The air box said from a 2001 GTX w/80 hours, and it looked clean. $25 shipped.

The pump was the RULE 500S. it's 3 wires vs. OEM 2, but you just snip the 3rd, and wire it up to the OEM connector. same pump. I did that last time and it lasted a good 6-7 years. Only failed now because the grinder hit it and took off the top corner of it...

the under side was pretty nasty, so maybe it's for the best. It still pumped a lot of water fine though. Almost wish I could fit another pump in the ski, tied directly to the airbox... dedicated to pumping water out of the intake system.
 
Do they really take on that much water? I had my 2001 out once and the carbs were not correct so didn't get t ride it hard. Second time the wife just cruised it around. The next trip will be to Laughlin at the end of July so I should finally get to flog it. The last hourglass hull I rode was my 97' I bought new in 97' and sold in 2001 but it never took on much water and didn't even come with an electric bilge pump.
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
I think greasing it, is what killed it.

The OEM one is a double seal, and according to the OSD parts site, when you overgrease it, it blows out the seal, and water gets in the bearing.

THey sell a kit that's a single seal, so you can see the grease, and know when it's 'full'.

I bet I over greased it :(

bearings are great at 7,000 RPM, then THUD full on lock.

Not even a slowing down or wearing. Just LOCK.
Click to expand...


Made this mistake last night. I put in a new OEM seal carrier bearing and I pumped 1 too many pumps of grease and noticed that the cap started to come out. Maybe an 1/8 of the way. My question is, is this unit toast now, do I need to order a new one? Or can I pull it out pop off the zurk fitting release pressure and reseal it it? This is a brand new unit with less than 2 hours on it, I'd hate to have to order a new one, but....
 
Honestly... I don't know. If it were me, I might be tempted to just ride it, but for insurance, you could remove it, and start all over :(

Can you push it back in somehow without disassembly?
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
Honestly... I don't know. If it were me, I might be tempted to just ride it, but for insurance, you could remove it, and start all over :(

Can you push it back in somehow without disassembly?
Click to expand...


I just decided to order a new one, with as much as iv done to my ski no point in cutting corners here. Possible to push it back, but I'd rather spend the 30 for peace of mind. Luckily I Need to pull the pump to change out a pump seal anyway.
 
I went OEM in lieu of time, and OSD payment/shipping methods weren't preferable to me. Now that I know what to be otlo for I think i'll be ok, I also think there is something to be said about having a totally sealed unit as the OSD is designed more towards user error IMO than performance. This could also be a self-justified excuse Im using so I can slap a new one on for before the weekend comes lol
 
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