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STUCK ON AN ISLAND, water in cylinders and cant turn it over.

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Before you tow it check in the manual for your year and ski how to "block" the water inlet. Most sea doo's you need to put a clamp on the water inlet tube coming out of the impeller prior to the exhaust box, engine etc. If you don't block the water inlet when you tow it back it will fill with water again. Remember to remove the block before using the ski.

Does it matter at this point since the cylinders are full of water? I guess it could get worse and get liquid in the oil?
 
You have to get the engine turning ASAP, and follow the boil out steps to get all the water out of the engine, do a few oil changes and get that ski running asap. By this point with as many days that have passed I would say you will need a new engine.
 
I second what everyone else has been telling you... get the water out ASAP and get it running. Yes it does matter at this point, you do not want any additional water getting into the engines.

If you cannot get it turned over b/c of the starter or other issue then do the best you can to get the water out of the cylinders and replace that with some oil for the time being to help inhibit the rust forming. Use a turkey baster with a long hose on the end if you have to just to get the water out. Your engine with water in the cylinders is rusting as we speak, soon the rust will be bad enough that the piston rings will become seized and you will need to rebuild those engines which is very costly and time consuming.

If it were my boat and my engines I would be scrambling to get this fixed and the water out. Your boat, your choice...
 
UPDATE & Question

Got the starter out. Re-built the starter. Turns over fine now.

Sucked the water out with a shopvac.

With my old ski I could turn it over a million times if I wanted and keep cranking - shooting the water out. whith the 4-tec it seems to only turn once and since it wont start it stops, then I have to press the start again, and again.......

is there a way around this?

Thanks
 
whith the 4-tec it seems to only turn once and since it wont start it stops, then I have to press the start again, and again.......

is there a way around this?

Thanks

The motor should crank over more than once. It should probably crank as long as you hold the start button unless there's some form of safety that prevents you from smoking the starter or cables by cranking too long. If it's only spinning over one revolution, you've still got a starting problem.
 
Fresh water, salt water, added oil....... doesn't really matter bc you cant coat every surface. All it takes is one bearing to start to rust. Yes it might run for a day, 2 days or maybe only 30 mins. It is now a ticking time bomb. Not trying to be a @ss but don't get your hopes up.
 
All I can do is try :)

Got the engine turning over normally and spitting out all of the water. Just gas fumes now.

My main concern is that there is water in the bottom of the crankcase miced with the oil.

Will this be true with the 4tec? Is it possible to drain this some how?

Thanks again guys
 
You will have to do a few oil changes to get the water all out as well as the boil out method. Below are the steps, sorry I couldn't upload the actual doc but maybe this will help.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Section 02 MAINTENANCE
Subsection 04 (WATER-FLOODED ENGINE)


WATER-FLOODED ENGINE


GENERAL

NOTE: This procedure to be performed for each engine.
If an engine becomes water-flooded, it must be serviced within a few hours after the event. Oth- erwise engine(s) will have to be overhauled.
CAUTION: Each water-flooded engine must be properly lubricated, operated then lubricated again, otherwise parts will be seriously dam- aged.

PROCEDURE

Check fuel reservoir for water contamination. If necessary, siphon and refill with fresh fuel.
To limit damages to the engine(s), perform the fol- lowing procedure as soon as possible for each en- gine.
Drain bilge if water is present.
If it was submerged in salt water, spray bilge and all components with fresh water using a garden hose to stop the salt corroding effect.
CAUTION: Never try to crank or start the engines. Water trapped in the intake manifold would enter t h e combusti on chambers through the intake valves and may cause dam- age to the engines.
Whenever the engines are stopped, all the valves close to prevent water from being ingested in the engines.
If water is suspected to be in the intake manifolds and the exhaust systems, they must be drained as follows:
Remove each intake manifold and suck out the water from the intake valve ports. Refer to subsec- tion INTAKE SYSTEM.
Remove the water from each engine’s oil/air sep- arator breather hose.
Remove the exhaust pipes, the mufflers and the resonators and drain them. Refer to subsection EXHAUST SYSTEM.
If water gets in the oil (oil will appear milky), change the engine oil and filter as follows for each engine:
Oil Change Procedure

ENGINE WITHOUT THE SCAVENGE OIL PUMP COVER DRAIN PLUG
CAUTION: Never crank or start an engine when siphon tube is in dipstick hole. Never start an engine when there is no oil in that engine.
1. Using the oil VAC (P/N 529 035 880), siphon oil through dipstick hole.
2. Remove the oil VAC tool from the dip stick hole.
3. While in drowned engine mode, crank the en- gine for 5 seconds.
4. Remove the oil filter cap and the oil filter.
5. Again, siphon oil from the reservoir.
6. Install a new oil filter and reinstall the oil filter cap.
7. Fill up the reservoir with fresh oil.
8. Run the engine for 3 minutes in a test tank or connected to a flush kit
9. Repeat the above steps 1 to 7.
10. Boil out the remaining water as follows:
a. Recommended procedure: BOIL OUT PRO- CEDURE IN A TEST TANK OR TIED TO A TRAILER WITH SPORT BOAT IN WATER.
b. Optional procedure: BOIL OUT PROCEDURE CONNECTED TO A FLUSH KIT.
 
Section 02 MAINTENANCE
Subsection 04 (WATER-FLOODED ENGINE)




ENGINE WITH THE SCAVENGE OIL PUMP COVER DRAIN PLUG
CAUTION: Never crank or start an engine when siphon tube is in dipstick hole. Never start an engine when there is no oil in that engine.
1. Using the oil VAC (P/N 529 035 880), siphon oil through dipstick hole.
2. Remove the oil vac tool from the dip stick hole.
3. While in drowned engine mode, crank the en- gine for 5 seconds.
4. Remove the oil filter cap and the oil filter.
5. Again, siphon oil from the reservoir.
6. Put a rag under the scavenge oil pump cover.
7. Remove the scavenge oil pump cover drain plug and install fitting (P/N 293 710 037).
8. Connect the oil vac tool Bombardier (P/N 529
035 880) to the fitting.
9. The front of the engine must be tilted down approximately 15 degrees to facilitate the re- moval of the oil. Raise the rear of the boat ac- cordingly. Siphon the oil from the fitting.
10. Level the engine.
11. Remove the oil vac tool and the fitting. Rein- stall the drain plug.
NOTE: Do not forget to install the sealing washer on the drain plug.
NOTE: If spillage occurs, clean immediately with the pulley flange cleaner (P/N 413 711 809) to prevent oil stains.
12. Install a new oil filter and reinstall the oil filter cap.
13. Fill up the reservoir with fresh oil.
14. Boil out the remaining water as follows:

WARNING
Make sure to safely secure the sport boat be- fore starting engine(s).

a. Recommended procedure: BOIL OUT PRO- CEDURE WITH SPORT BOAT IN WATER.
b. Optional procedure: BOIL OUT PROCEDURE CONNECTED TO A FLUSH KIT.
A. Boil Out Procedure with Sport Boat in Water
1. Run the engine for 5 minutes at 3500 RPM.
2. With the engine still running at 3500 RPM, in- stall a hose pincher to the coolant line going to the oil cooler.

WARNING
Certain components in the engine compart- ment may be very hot. Direct contact may re- sult in skin burn. Do not touch any electrical parts or jet pump area when engine is run- ning.

F18E10A

1. Oil cooler coolant inlet hose

3. Continue to run the engine at 3500 RPM for 15 more minutes (20 minutes total run time).
4. Shut the engine off.
5. Remove the hose pincher on the coolant line going to the oil cooler.
CAUTION: Hose pincher should be removed before operating the engine. Failure to do this will result in damage to the engine.
6. Change the oil and filter again.
7. Procedure is now completed.

B. Boil Out Procedure Connected to a Flush Kit
1. On drive shaft, remove the C-clip then move for- ward the ring seal carrier. Refer to DRIVE SYS- TEM section.
CAUTION: Make sure that the ring seal carrier is not in contact with the PTO seal assembly, neither with the carbon ring.
 
Section 02 MAINTENANCE
Subsection 04 (WATER-FLOODED ENGINE)



2. Connect a flush kit to the coolant line.
CAUTION: Never run engines without supply- ing water to the exhaust cooling systems when sport boat is out of water.
3. Run the engine for 5 minutes at 3000 RPM.
4. With the engine still running at 3000 RPM, in- stall a hose pincher to the coolant line going to the oil cooler.

WARNING
Certain components in the engine compart- ment may be very hot. Direct contact may re- sult in skin burn. Do not touch any electrical parts or jet pump area when engine is run- ning.

5. Continue to run the engine at 3000 RPM for 15 more minutes (20 minutes total run time).
6. Shut off the engine
7. Remove the hose pincher on the coolant line going to the oil cooler.
CAUTION: Hose pinchers should be removed before operating the engines. Failure to do this will result in damage to the engine(s).
8. Change the oil and filter again.
9. Move rearward the Ring Seal Carrier and rein- stall the C-clip. Refer to DRIVE SYSTEM sec- tion.
10. Procedure is now completed.
 
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