stock fuel hose clamps

[RNispiros]

I am replacing the Grey fuel hoses on my 2 94 GTSs. Question: What is the easiest way to remove the factory stainless hose clamps without damaging the connectors underneath? I figured I'd ask for folk's experience before I experiment and break a connector or worse.

Thanks!

Rich

 

[kustomkarl]

Rich, use a pair of side cutters and cut the high end off the old clamp. Then the hose will just slip off.

Karl

 

[RNispiros]

O.K. Karl, Thanks! I'll tackle one of the GTSs this evening. Also, I tried to find a listing for the BN-38 carb rebuild kits on the link above. The listings seadoowarehouse.com (Link on the forum) do not depict or list one. Any leads to find a complete kit?

Thanks!

Rich

 

[kustomkarl]

I thought the kit was availiable from the "Parts" link. You could do a google search to see what comes up...or try" www.seadoosource.com "
They aren't the best price but I think they sell them.

Karl

 

[RNispiros]

O.K. Thanks again! I was trying to source them here first to support the forum, but they don't show up.

I did email the Seedoosource contact monday, but haven't heard back so, I'll look for them locally here in town.

Again, thanks for the leads and guidance!

Rich

 

[kustomkarl]

Let us know if we can help any more.

Karl

 

[cordatta]

sbtontheweb.com out of florida has the best price on the carb kit, wear ring, and impeller removal tool for the seadoo application that i found. good luck on the rebuild read the article here on the forum twice and its a piece of cake to tackle. when i re-did all of my fuel lines i found that it was best to cut the hose off at the carb mark them with colored electrical tape and then pull the tank, fuel filter and selector knob as a unit. then just replace them one by one. hope this helps.

 

[RNispiros]

Thanks and now a carb rebuild question...

Cordatta, Thanks! Just replaced all the grey hose on the first GTS. 2 hours, 30' Napa Fuel injection hose and 23 SS clamps. Thanks for mentioning pulling out the gas tank. Made the swap a breeze... I also cleaned/blew out the fuel selector switch. There is one additional grey cable running from the carb to the block near the intake manifold forward starboard side. Should this be replaced too?

Now, for the carb rebuild... I will have 2 to do. Great contributions by many on the process which seems like something I can do. I'll hunt down the needed kits (Thanks again Cordatta!)

I have a question on the Pop off valve tester. I searched the forum and see it's needed for testing the valve, but no where do I find how to perform the test. Also, I see folks assemble a tester using a bike pump and parts. Anyone have a parts list for building a effective and economic tester?

 

[cordatta]

I couldnt find a tester either so I just ended up reusing the old spring. Test the new tab like it states in the manual and you'll be set. If you want I have a pdf version of the manual for my 97 that I could send you. PM me about it.

 

[RNispiros]

Thanks! I'll do that. BTW, for reference I did find the kits I needed for $35 each plus shipping at the website you mentioned. Are there any other reneweal items/maintenance you did/doing for your 97 GTS?

 

[JPX]

There is one additional grey cable running from the carb to the block near the intake manifold forward starboard side. Should this be replaced too?

That is the pulse line. Think of it like this - kind of like it sends a signal to the carbs each time the pistons cycle to "pump" the fuel into the carbs.

Does not transport fuel.....so not really affected by the grey hose deterioration on the fuel supply loop. I ended up replacing mine with the same fuel hose because I was a nitwit and cut the hose without realizing it was not necessary to cut.



Nonetheless, I needed to put new hose clamps on it anyway because I needed to remove the old clamps to remove the carbs from the engine. Don't use thin wall tubing (like the clear hoses) for the pulse line - too much heat, vibration and pressure. The fuel hose is better suited for the pulse.

Concerning your question on the pop off test itself, this is how it would be executed.
http://www.youtube.com/v/ieMgEoppHq0&hl=en&fs=1
Note the slow depressurization to avoid pounding the needle into the seat with excessive force. My pop off wasn't quite that dramatic with the rigged setup I used:

 

[RNispiros]

JPX, thanks! I see what being tested now and how. I'll see if I can find how to construct the pump and determine what the attachment point looks like to the carb itself. Where does the pump end attach to? Inlet fuel line?

Can you send an enlargment of the photo just showing the Pop off pump tester you assembled? Thanks! in trade, I'll assemble a parts list for it for other members to reference one I get one built.

Rich