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Stiff steering

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Enzo Pozzar

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I have a 2003 GTX Limited and have found the steering verry stiff after about 6 months of non use, is there any lube points as I can't find any.
 
I would lube everywhere you see the cable move, including the steering linkage. It might be the cable that is bad. Disconnect it from the jet pump than operate the steering. If it is still stiff chances are it needs a new cable. The cables are sealed to keep water out so they can't be lubed.

Keep us posted on your progress.
Karl
 
Before you go replacing cables after disconnecting at the nozzle end and testing. If it is still stiff then disconnect on the steering shaft end and see if it is still stiff. If it is still stiff with the cable disconnected then you likely have corrosion buildup on the steering stem/shaft and will need to either replace or disassemble and clean it.
 
I have a 2003 GTX Limited and have found the steering verry stiff after about 6 months of non use, is there any lube points as I can't find any.

Hi there. A good soaking with Silicone Spray Lub always resolves this problem on my ski.....make sure you get the end of the cable at the jet unit and all linkages...my main problem after 6 months was to actually get some movement to enable lubrication.

Cheers
Greg
 
Try the lube but it probably won't work, at least not for long. SeaDoo had a problem with the earlier 4TEC steering cables and has come out with a revised replacement cable and boots. PWCdoc is correct also. It might not be the cable at all. I have had alot of skis' that the steering stem (that the handle bars bolt to) would get really tight. In that case, the steering column has to be disassembled, cleaned, lubed and then reassembled. Trying to spray lube in there usually won't work.
Good Luck, DAWG
 
2003 GTX 155 Same problem solved by installing new steering cable.

Disconnect cable at rear jet outlet. If steering is still stiff, the non-servicable cable is binding internally. External lube is useless.

Caution; For an experienced mechanic this is relatively simple to do, but take it to the Seadoo Dealer if you have any questions. Any installation problem could lead to complete loss of steering!
 
I disagree with taking it to the dealer. If you have any questions ask here first. If, however, we are unable to resolve the problem, then by all means take it to a reputable shop. Dealer is not necessary, being reputable is an absolute requirement.
 
For $90 bucks an hour!....

:agree: with PWCdoc. For the price you pay for these guys to stand around and look at it, then tell you the wearing ring is shot (not fixing what you came in for), your liable to be spending big bucks and not get the work done.

Again, like PWCdoc says, a reputable shop is better than a dealership. People like him and me, that work on these things and have earned a reputation (for me, by word of mouth on the river I live on) for helping people get their skis/boats running is worth 10K times more than some dealer advertising they have only the best certified mechanics. In other words, mechanics that they sent to some book school that gave them a piece of paper.:cheers:
 
:agree: that word of mouth is tons better that paid advertising. And as for the "manufacturers school" is concerned what most people do not realize is that school merelt covers the information in the service manual...which he and I (as well as others) have access to. What the school does offer dealerships, that it does not offer us, is an increase in hourly reimbursement the dealerships receive on warranty work versus not having a technician that attended the school. And I remember the techs that went to the school back when I was the A tech at a local dealership.....they were almost clueless and couldn't understand why I was making more per hour than they were....or why I'd want to be on flag time rather than a straight hourly wage.

Dealerships are designed around getting you back in for service. I find much more satisfaction by seeing my customers out on the lake enjoying themselves with their friends and family.
 
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