Stator Test for 787

[etemplet]

Looking in the manual, I don't see a specific Stator test for the 787 in my 96 GTX. I tested the trigger coil as per book and it is good. I am checking the 3 yellow wires on the other side of the connector at the connector with an ohm meter. I don't have the special test plug.

I have an OL on the middle yellow wire. It is difficult to get in there but I checked it many times. The top and bottom wires have continuity. Of course I got 35 M Ohms at one point on the middle wire but testing without values doesn't mean much.

Looking in the book, if I have to remove the stator I should not have to pull the flywheel. Help is always appreciated. I am gettin quite an education on these jet skis. not a bad thing.

 

[jjsinaz]

If you connect across any of the yellow wires to another yellow wire, you should have continuity. If you check from any of the yellow wires to ground, it should read open. Sounds like one of the stator windings is open.

 

[etemplet]

I am curious as to why the manual does not have a stator test listed for the 787. OK question... I don't think I should get into the oil cavity if I remove the stator cover correct??

Question... I tested the trigger coil. Will a bad stator give me a spark no spark condition. I will go pull this magilla immediately. LOL

 

[racerxxx]

The stator test is in the manual. Just dig a little deeper.

 

[etemplet]

Well the manual I am looking at came with the ski it is a Clymer's manual. I'm just trying to verify if I need to pull the stator. I already started.

 

[racerxxx]

Lol, toss that in the trash or use it as a door stop. The factory service manual is the only way to go.

 

[etemplet]

I really like having the book in hand. Perhaps not for some of the really technical stuff but well written and easy to understand. I got the SeaDoo manual on the computer but I'm getting to where I hate computers more and more. LOL

 

[racerxxx]

Hit the print button, 3 ring binder and your good to go. I have a pc in my shop so when I need a page it's right there at my finger tips. And it doesn't get smudged up.

 

[mikidymac]

Ipad works great too or just print the entire manual at work

 

[etemplet]

Hmmmm..... So I don't have the manual for the GTX. LOL

 

[eavega]

The 97 GTX is identical. That manual hasn't failed me once for working on my 96 GTX.

-E

 

[etemplet]

Pulled the Stator. Looks pretty bad in there lots of rust dust. Thinking about replacing the trigger while I am in there, it all pretty dirty though. The Stator does has an open leg.. the center one.

 

[DerekI]

Download a pdf from seadoo manuals and save to your drive on your smartphone. That way you can always look at like I do. Also note there is a service and parts manuals for your ride. If not available for 96 use the 97 service manual for repair

 

[etemplet]

Thanks guys. I think I'm gonna pull the flywheel. I'd like to clean all the rust dust out of there. I have a rust converter chemical that works really good but I'm gonna go overboard as usual.

I figure the trigger was so coated with rust it just couldn't pick up properly. Good thing the stator tested bad or I would not have opened this area for a look
. Good stuff !! Can't wait to get this ski reliable.

 

[mikidymac]

There is also an updated and improved pickup coil bracket. You might want to just order the newer improved complete cover assembly from [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION].

 

[racerxxx]

Yep, throw that in the trash. Not worth salvaging anything there. The only way I clean those up is a bead blaster and trash the electronics.

 

[etemplet]

I'm trying to figure out how water got in there or is that normal for a 20 year old ski?

 

[etemplet]

Well the parts or ordered and no, I did not throw the housing away. I cleaned it up and up and up, and prepped and alodined the cover which is what I did the carbs.
I need an oil pump o-ring. Does anyone know the proper size. I can match it up but it would be nice to have the size. I would like being assembly on Friday if all the parts come in and check out.

 

[mikidymac]

It's going to be hard to source that o-ring locally as it is extremely thin. I can measure it when I get home if that helps though.

 

[etemplet]

It's going to be hard to source that o-ring locally as it is extremely thin. I can measure it when I get home if that helps though.

Appreciate it but I have the o-ring and can measure. I have an o-ring that is close but not close enough. I purchased the pump block of plate. Your helpfulness is always appreciated. Thanks Again !!

 

[mikidymac]

Any particular reason for getting rid of the oil pump? I have it on all of mine and couldn't imagine the oil or trouble used for premixing all of them.

 

[racerxxx]

Just use the original o ring. I've never replaced one. If not just get one at the dealer if you really want to replace it.

 

[etemplet]

Pretty much all o-rings take a compression set so I replace if I have them. I agree concerning condition based replacement, sometimes the o-ring is good to go. The current o-ring looks like it came over on the Mayflower... it's all cracked up and I don't think it was in the correct position to seal properly to begin with.

 

[etemplet]

Any particular reason for getting rid of the oil pump? I have it on all of mine and couldn't imagine the oil or trouble used for premixing all of them.

Less issues. If the skis were newer I'd leave the pumps on for sure.

 

[racerxxx]

Less issues. If the skis were newer I'd leave the pumps on for sure.

Guys run the oil pumps all the time......on these old skis. They are the most rock solid injection pumps on any ski out there. Other manufacturers suffered oil pump failures, but RARELY would seadoo. Like yourself, I too thought I had an engine dying from oil starvation but it turned out to be an air leak sucking air into the engine and leaning out the cylinder. So I switched to premix on my jet boat to avoid the pump. Well, I'm running the exact pump I removed on my 96 XP that I restored 5 years ago. If you just do a little maintenance (change the 3/32 oil lines, change the oil filter and bleed and set the pump) it will last you another 20 years. It's really that easy. But if you're all set on changing over I'll pay the shipping for your old oil pump, I could use an extra one. Not kidding either.