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Stator Test for 787
- Thread starter etemplet
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Go to your local lawnmower repair shop and get weedwacker (string trimmer) fuel line. Home depot also sells it in the plumbing department. It's orange-ish made by watts. Use small cable ties to hold it back on. Don't forget to bleed the pump (7mm hex nut) on the front of the pump. DO NOT fully remove the nut, you will probably loose the copper sealing washer. I always like to premix the first tank after messing with the oil lines----cheap insurance. Start ski, let idle, manually open the oil pump all the way and look at the oil pump thru the little lines. Pay attention to the cable, it has to get into the slot for the cable in the oil pump lever. I'd also check the oil pump alignment.
What is the likely location for moisture to enter the flywheel mag area? I am thinking where the wire plugs enter at the top. I am also wondering if the starter is sealed properly. Someone replaced it and I've learned these guys don't always replace o-rings or clean surfaces. There is also a chance the bad o-ring on the oil pump let some moisture in. I am replacing the mag cover gasket.
Finishing up on the Stator replacement, housing cleaning, gasket replacement and general well being of the Mag/flywheel area. Lots of corrosion and build up so I took precautions. I even alodined this stuff before doing the Glyptal. New Gasket, cleaned the slot with tedious alacrity 
Trying to seal all this off from moisture as best I can.
Trying to seal all this off from moisture as best I can.Attachments
My touch up paint was not quite dry in the photo. I even sanded the paint off the high spots on the rotor to make sure the paint wouldn't hinder the trigger pick up. Way to anal but I like doing it once. Thanks for the compliment.
By the way...I did install the 6 screws in the rotor before assembly.
Thanks for the compliment. By the way...I did install the 6 screws in the rotor before assembly.
The Alodine process I learned from corrosion protecting my Cessna 150 Aerobat. The Aluminum prep opens the pores of the aluminum metal (I use a plastic spray bottle). That is rinsed off with water, copious amounts and let dry thoroughly. Then the Alodine is applied (again I use a plastic spray bottle) and is allowed to remain on the surface but is not allowed to dry before rinsing with copious amounts of water. The Alodine creates a protective surface on the aluminum which protects against corrosion. It must be completely rinsed off.
As far as the Glyptal - it is a paint/protectant/non conductive electrical paint that is used on electric motors and in internal combustion engines. There are reasons for doing this besides looking pretty LOL My problem was the level of corrosion in the housing area that I did not want to return too quickly.
On the Glyptal, I found a product that I used in it's place (SEYIMOUR Red Insulating Varnish 620-1525). The spray can was $20.00. Glyptal which we used years ago is about $50.00 per quart (I think it is better and easier to paint the product rather than spray because spray gets everywhere) I've seen Glyptal Spray paint for $80.00 and it looked like 1 can was that price. It is good stuff and engine builders use this internally. I figured it might be a help with my situation.
As mentioned, I Alodined (which may have been enough) but you can't see the Alodine coating as it only slightly yellows the aluminum surface, so I figured I'd paint it with some good stuff. On an aircraft we spray a light coat of Zinc Oxide or Zinc Chromat Primer (I can't remember which but I have this in my hangar, LOL) over the Alodined surface. (On a side note, I alodined my carbs as well... they were ugly inside)
My big concern with the Mag housing is the Varnish flaking off and causing the same issues blocking the trigger magnet). LOL However... I don't think that will happen... This stuff is mean.
As far as the Glyptal - it is a paint/protectant/non conductive electrical paint that is used on electric motors and in internal combustion engines. There are reasons for doing this besides looking pretty LOL My problem was the level of corrosion in the housing area that I did not want to return too quickly.
On the Glyptal, I found a product that I used in it's place (SEYIMOUR Red Insulating Varnish 620-1525). The spray can was $20.00. Glyptal which we used years ago is about $50.00 per quart (I think it is better and easier to paint the product rather than spray because spray gets everywhere) I've seen Glyptal Spray paint for $80.00 and it looked like 1 can was that price. It is good stuff and engine builders use this internally. I figured it might be a help with my situation.
As mentioned, I Alodined (which may have been enough) but you can't see the Alodine coating as it only slightly yellows the aluminum surface, so I figured I'd paint it with some good stuff. On an aircraft we spray a light coat of Zinc Oxide or Zinc Chromat Primer (I can't remember which but I have this in my hangar, LOL) over the Alodined surface. (On a side note, I alodined my carbs as well... they were ugly inside
)My big concern with the Mag housing is the Varnish flaking off and causing the same issues blocking the trigger magnet). LOL However... I don't think that will happen... This stuff is mean.
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