solenoid clicking

[NickCawks]

I have a 95 Seadoo XP 717. It was completely rebuilt over winter (literally everything was replaced including the starter and solenoid) and has been running great all summer.

The other day I went to the lake and dropped it only to discover that it would no longer turn over. When I push the start button I get a single click and nothing else.

I have attempted to read up on the issue and try and discover how to fix it without making a new post, but I'm completely stumped.

What I have done:
-Replaced fuses - Same result
-I had an extra brand new solenoid lying around, replaced that - same result
-now I'm thinking this has to be an issue with the starter. Pulled the starter and bench tested it - The starter is in perfect functionality.

So I have replaced and confirmed all these things are brand new or in working condition, but I still just get the single click when pushing the start button.

My one piece of very confusing evidence is that when I attempt to jump the solenoid it does absolutely nothing. In the past when I have done this it cranked the starter. This time I don't even get a spark between the posts.

What am I missing here? Is my brand new MPEM fried?

Thank everyone in advance, I know that the answer I'm looking for is here in this great community of Seadoo enthusiasts!

 

[Ckrawiec]

These might be useful....

 

[NickCawks]

thanks for the reply. these quick references will be great down the road.

in response to what it says the only thing I failed to mention in the original post is that this problem occurred with two separate batteries one of which had easily started my GTX moments before I swapped it into the XP. Previously the battery was not draining and the stator seemed to be doing its job.

Considering the issue that is occurring and the steps to attempt to troubleshoot them I'm beginning to feel very confident that the issue is a wiring problem. *ugh*

 

[NickCawks]

I am going to try my third battery that has been running with no issues in my GTX.

just to eliminate any concerns about the battery voltage I am going to go ahead and throw it on the trickle charger for a few hours.

I'll report back, hopefully with good news

 

[POPPS]

If you jump the selenoid, and get nothing, it could lead to the starter,(assuming there is no top end or bottom end lock ups), often the positive terminal on the starter breaks.

 

[NickCawks]

Thanks for the response.

I am able to freely spin the PTO, so I'm assuming there is no hydro locking going on.

When you say the positive terminal on the starter breaks, how do you mean? Just curious because when I pulled the starter to bench test it, I just tapped the positive screw to the battery and it worked then.

I let the battery trickle charge overnight and attempted to connect everything up again today. Unfortunately got the same results as before.

I am starting to run out of ideas, but harkening back to a thread I had come across in the past where Miki specifically said stay away from non-OEM starters. Of course, my starter is a non-OEM because when I bought it I had even less working knowledge of Seadoos.

I do have a OEM starter that has been laying around for a few months. I went ahead and bench tested it and it seems to be functioning as it should. I am going to try and put this one in the ski and cross my finger that this is the problem.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Battery BLACK (fat cable) goes directly to the Starter, smaller black wire from battery black just grounds the ignition coil. Battery RED (fat cable) goes to one of the Solenoid Posts. Other solenoid post cable goes directly to the Starter...SO, bridging the solenoid posts sends battery voltage directly to the starter and it should attempt to spin...if it does not....your cables would be suspect and/or the solenoid is suspect at this point.

Do you hear the solenoid "click" when you push the Start/Stop button? The click is just an electromagnet in the solenoid that jumps up and bridges the solenoid posts internally...the internal contacts may carbonize over time (due to arcing) and not make great contact over time....

 

[NickCawks]

Yes, I am getting the click when I push the start button. Unfortunately, this is happening with the solenoid that was in it beforehand and the new one I just put in, in hopes that it would fix the problem.

I've never done so before, but when I attempt to jump the solenoid do I need to be pushing the start button? I have the safety lanyard key connected but haven't tried to push the start button while jumping the posts.

I re-ran through all the wiring yesterday. everything seems to be in the same shape as it was when I installed it over winter.

The only other thing I can think in regards to this is when I replaced all the wiring I used a larger gauge then OEM, in my mind this was a good thing and shouldn't have caused any issues (and the ski ran fine with it for around 10 hours). but to take a shot in the dark, is this a concern?

 

[Ckrawiec]

Yes, I am getting the click when I push the start button. OK, this tells us that you are getting a signal on the Yellow/red wire from the ECM to "bridge" the solenoid to attempt to start the ski....so, Start/Stop button is probably good. Unfortunately, this is happening with the solenoid that was in it beforehand and the new one I just put in, in hopes that it would fix the problem.

I've never done so before, but when I attempt to jump the solenoid do I need to be pushing the start button? - NO, bridging the solenoid posts from the outside of the solenoid bypasses everything and should send battery voltage directly to the starter. I have the safety lanyard key connected but haven't tried to push the start button while jumping the posts.

I re-ran through all the wiring yesterday. everything seems to be in the same shape as it was when I installed it over winter. - Looks ok but assume nothing....check all wiring from point to point along the harnesses for continuity....only costs time.....minute corrosion will inhibit the flow of voltage and it doesn't take much...check, check again...electrical gremlins can be a real PITA

The only other thing I can think in regards to this is when I replaced all the wiring I used a larger gauge then OEM, in my mind this was a good thing and shouldn't have caused any issues (and the ski ran fine with it for around 10 hours). but to take a shot in the dark, is this a concern?

- I would NOT necessarily suspect that a heavier guage wire would cause issues so long as all connections are good....undersized wire would be a bigger issue.

 

[NickCawks]

Well, we have a success here.

it was the non-OEM starter.

As soon as I replaced it with the OEM starter it cranked right over.

I'm kind of confused how the starter operated fine on the bench but not in the ski, but I am not going to complain.

Thank you guys for your suggestions. It ultimately comes back to needing to take better note of Miki's wisdom!

 

[Ckrawiec]

Well, we have a success here.

it was the non-OEM starter.

As soon as I replaced it with the OEM starter it cranked right over.

I'm kind of confused how the starter operated fine on the bench but not in the ski, but I am not going to complain.

Thank you guys for your suggestions. It ultimately comes back to needing to take better note of Miki's wisdom!

I've had starters that I THOUGHT were perfectly fine....took them to the old grizzled mechanics and they'd say..."Nope, not good enough" just by hooking directly to a battery and spinning it. Damned if they weren't always right.....EXPERIENCE does count for something....and Yes, Mikidymac knows his stuff, he might have fixed a ski or two in his life (or a thousand(s) for all I know)

 

[mikidymac]

Silly aftermarket starters.

 

[NickCawks]

Well I'm bringing this thread back in hopes that someone can give me an answer.

After installing the new starter I was able to ride the ski flawlessly and added around 3 more hours to the ski.

Yesterday after riding it for a little while and docking the ski at my uncle's houseboat the same thing began to happen.

I'm kind of at my wits end and about ready to sell the ski and move on.

What could be wrong with my ski that is destroying starters withing 3 to 5 hours of use?

The only thing I can think at this point is I need to buy and and replace the entire ebox. As this was the one single component that was not replaced last year and the previous owner had clearly pulled it apart and made a mess of it.

Thanks in advance guys. Maybe with your help I will decide the ski isnt worth getting rid of.