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so the dealer told me to "pour" antifreeze into exhaust to winterize....???

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Freddyk79

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So i'm working on putting my 2013 gti 130's to bed for the winter. I wasnt havin luck gettin antifreeze to cycle thru via the flush port (whole other topic, one issue at a time lol). so i call up my dealer for info, the guy tells me to go under the seat and remove one of the hoses and pour 1/2 quart of antifreeze in exhaust manifold and thats it. upon lookin i find 2 hoses, one bout 3-4" in diameter(with the exhaust temp sending unit right near the exit) and one small short hose 3/4" max. so i decided to remove to large hose and go that route.

Has anyone ever heard of this b4?

More importantly did i screw anything up by pouring the antifreeze thru the large hose hole?
 
On my 2013 GTX 155, I connected a hose to the flush port & held it above the ski, started engine & poured in approx. 1/2 gal. of anti-freeze slowly into a funnel til it came out of the back end - stopped pouring then shut off. Pulled plugs and fogged per new method. Old way was thru the injectors which I find is much easier. Anyboby know why the change to thru plug holes vs injector holes??
 
Yea I didnt know about the funnel thing till yesterday. That's exaxtly what I did and it worked out good. When I asked about foggng the engine the dealer tech did mention the injector route. He told me i'd need inverted torque sockets. Which I don't have at the moment. So I fogged thru the plug holes.
 
you can use regular 6 point sockets on the Etorx as a temporary solution on the smaller sizes. you should go through the injectors, this is the only way to coat the intake valves.
 
Are the Injectors hard to get at? I don't exactly know where they are. When the guy said "Inverted socket" I assumed they were hard to get at or upside down in some sort of way. I have bad luck with droppin screws n bolts....
 
the fuel rail sits right on top with the 3 injectors attached, couldn't be any easier to get to.

he said inverted torx socket probably but is called an e-torx. you can get them at any auto parts store. the size is an E8 that you'll need and there's only two of these that hold the fuel rail on.
 
Ah ok, sounds like something I can tackle myself. I've used etorx b4. Thanks for the info man!
At least now I have an idea of what to do.

Can I just remove and fog inside there and be good? Or to I need to crank the engine after? I'm gonna guess that there's no cranking needed.
 
you need to crank for 5-10 seconds after you reinstall the fuel rail. hold the throttle wide open and it won't fire or pump fuel, just crank.
 
Why does the new bulletin say to fog thru spark plug holes instead of the injector holes ? It is a pain to get fogging oil deep into spark plug holes.
 
It takes more time removing plugs when all you need to remove the injectors is 2 bolts, and the pop off all together.
 
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