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Should I remove the accelerator pump? And how?

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spacerust

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I just got my ski back from mechanic. He did a top end and cleaned the carbs and some misc stuff. He told me it ran good but had a hiccup here and there because of the accelerator pump. He said that it would eventually need to be replaced and that I could do it to save on labor charges. I took it out and it ran good for about thirty minutes or so and then it seemed like it was losing power. It would start right up but chugged when I tried to accelerate. I called my mechanic and he said pull the choke out just a tad and that is what he did when he tested it. I was trying to get it to pick up, but it just trolled around from there on. I checked the fuel filter to see if maybe the fuel pump may be going out, but the filter is full and when I brought it home to flush it, it started right up again as normal. How can I determine for sure if it is the accelerator pump and I have read that you can remove it. If so, how and would I need to rejet or anything else? Thanks in advance. I will try to load the video of my trying to get it going. https://vimeo.com/131615139


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What year and model ski do you own? It looks like an 03GTX, but I thought 03's were DI's. Please put the info in your user profile for next time. So I'm guessing it's an O3 carb.

No, I would not remove the accel. pump, check the operation, could be the pump(s), could be the check valves, also it could be needles and seats. First thing I would do is check the pop-off. Were the carb(s), rebuilt with Mikuni parts?

Lou
 
If you or your mechanic didn't not open up those carbs during the top end your both crazy. The accel pump has nothing to do with running, it just squirts fuel on a take off from idle.

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Definitely can't just remove them. The low speed circuit & jetting is designed to work with the squirt of fuel. Without them it will fall on its face & stall out. Not sure if the pump version carbs can be richened up that much to compensate with just jetting. I "think" they might have smaller, or one less fuel transfer slots in the venturi.

Its possible your pump needs to be adjusted, or possibly your low speed circuit is adjusted very lean.
both of those things can make them hesitate like that. 2002?
 
If you or your mechanic didn't not open up those carbs during the top end your both crazy. The accel pump has nothing to do with running, it just squirts fuel on a take off from idle.

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I would agree on that one. plugged internal filters, and/or jets will shorten the fun factor........
 
The ski is a 2002 GTX 2-stroke. The carb were rebuilt along with the top end.


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So in the video, you could not get it to rev up? Its really hard to hear what going on in the video. It sounded like it was stumbling a little when you were at the furthest point from the camera?

Was it rebuilt because of a top end failure? Did you or your mechanic happen to inspect the reeds when the carbs were off? How did it run before the service work was completed?

the accelerator pump needs three main things to work. #1 a good diaphragm, #2 the injector nozzles need to be unobstructed & not plugged, & #3 the check valve must be functional. But there are more things that can cause problems as they rely on a good fuel supply from the bowl of the hosting carb & they need to be adjust correctly. If you remove the air box & spark arrestor, you should be able to look into each carb & see the nozzles. with even the the slightest throttle movement, you should see fuel spray out of each nozzle in each carb. I would look at that first if your going to dig into it.
 
You have down he just cleaned the carbs. That is totally different that rebuilding them. All he/she might of done is sprayed them out and maybe opened them and sprayed them out. Here would be my complaint on paying that person the money. You ski is still not running right. How could someone give you back a ski that doesn't run right tell you it is an accel pump? Those things are like $20 buck and take like 5 mins to install since he said he cleaned the carbs so he had them off in is hand so why not just charge you $20 more for that?

Most of the time you need a topend because the carbs are messed up. That is just poor work. If you spent all of that money to rebuild the topend and no full carb rebuild (unless you just did them not to long before) that is just a waste of money and dumb mechanic.
 
He did a top end because he opened them up in front of me and showed me how the piston was chipping off. He did a carb rebuild.


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So I am a little unclear on what I should try to do to remedy this. If I not getting a good throttle response( it wants to bog down) when I push the throttle a little, I pretty much have to just full throttle and then it only chugs along. It doesn't go faster than what you see in the video.


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So did you inspect the fuel nozzles in the carbs like we talked about in post #8? Gotta go step by step to eliminate things & let us know every detail. It can take a lot of patients through the forum. both nozzles should shoot a steady even stream with slow movement of the throttle linkage. But, you must test this after the engine has been run. There's only enough fuel in the bowl for a few squirts.
 
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