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Selling pwc?

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The previous owner did a bit of body work... poorly. Im probably going to try and sell this ski and I'm wondering if you guys have better luck selling skis with original stickers and paint or with a fresh flat coat. I kinda want to smooth out the old patches but I would need to paint the top side to match everything. I know my 92 xp isnt worth too much I'm just curious if it might be worth my time.
 
So I guess post a picture and we can see it. Usually, a quick clean and buff leaving it more or less stock would be best for most of the public buyers. I would not spend a bunch of time on it. There are many rags out there on craigslist, so you just need not to be a rag. A cherry 92 still is not worth a bunch. Have it so it starts easily, and clean the engine bay with some super clean if it is filthy. I would not spend time painting and detailing. Miki or others may weigh in on the Cali market specifics.
 
I agree with soccerdad. There isn't much money in a 92' XP here in Cali either. A perfect one probably wouldn't bring $1K. I would just sell it as is and not waste a bunch of my time.
 
Ok thanks guys! I'm still trying to get the thing to stop hitting the limiter when idling. Figured I would ask more out of curiosity.
 
If your throttle isn't adjusted too high then the only thing that would cause wide open idle is an air leak. It's called a runaway.
 
with regards to cosmetic, if you put time into it, It probably won't sell for more but it will likely sell faster.

IMO the three things that are important for a higher closing rate on sales.

1) overall very clean, no mold, no stains, no oil/sludge in the hull
2) a good coat of "shine" on the interior, fluid film/crc/silicone spray no paint chips missing
3) starts right up on first try when the buyer gets there and idles on its own, no smoke.

shockingly, most of the sellers I tend to deal with violate all 3 rules on a regular basis.

just had a buddy drive 3 hours to pick up a $1300 GSXL and it wouldn't start, dead battery, they dinked around for a half hour while the guy tried to charge it no luck, then he left out of frustration, didn't even bother with a lowball offer. (which was a mistake IMO, I would have offered 3-400, you'd be surprised how often people take those because they're tired of dealing with it)
 
Yes, there has to be sealant on the case halves. I use Threebond 1184 but you can also use Yamabond, Hondabond, Moto Seal or 1211. Just absolutely no RTV silicone.
 
Thanks Leary. Once I figure out my running issues a good clean is next. Out of curiosity what would happen with the rtv? Is the crank too hot?
 
RTV is not fuel resistant no matter what the package says and will cause an air leak/runaway/blown up engine.
 
The craft started off idling well so I put the exhaust and everything back together and when I went to try again the rps maxed out. Is it likely that I didnt seal it properly or could it maybe be sucking air through the inner crank seals?
 
I figured the exhaust wasn't it but thought it could have been the inner seals in the crank. Unfortunately I'm just an idiot. The idle screw had been cranked all the way down. Thanks though.
 
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