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Seadoo XP 1997 starting issues

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benchy69

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Right from the beginning.....I have a seadoo XP that i've had problems with starting since day 1, but more recently major issues.

The engine will not turn over with the spark plugs in or when there is full compression i.e. Compression tester on one cylinder (have to use the release valve on the tester to allow it to turn over, compression of both cylinders is 11.5 bar (i think its bar).

With the plugs out the engine turns over a treat - Battery is not an issue here as being run off a car battery. With the plugs in the engine attempts to turn over but stops and a knocking noise comes from the starter (as if battery weak or engine seized)

I have cracked open the top and checked the pistons/valves etc, they are fine and free from carbon.
I have been to an authorised seadoo repairer and they are stumped by the problem. All electrical cables are good and I even bypassed them all and the solenoid etc.

Your help on this matter would be grately appreciated as I currently have a busted ski with the summer coming.

Thanks

Benchy
 
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not sure, what 11.5 bar is, in terms of U.S. compression reading, but dont think thats the problem. I'd re-check all cables, connections at cable ends (just found bad connect at my starter, cleaned up,..perfect), connects at relay/solenoid, ..EVERYTHING, if 100% sure, than either battery bad, in which, even though says, 12-ish volts, when hit the button, it can be drop'n to 8-9 volts, which, will not turn that motor, OR..starter bad/internally.
 
i seem to be having this same issue...turns over nice with no plugs but once i put the plugs in it barely turns...ughh
 
I think you should check the wire connectors from the battery to be sure you are getting a good connection first. Check the connection of the ground near the starter. If the wires aren't corroded and making a good connection and the battery is fully charged and doesn't have any bad cells then it might be the starter. If you have the spark plug caps remove, be sure you put them on the grounding post when you crank it over so it won't over load the external coils of excess electrical power and cause more problems. If your in doubt of the battery condition have it Load tested at like Auto Zone for free. If your battery has a bad cell it won't have the amps to crank over the seadoo. I would do a compression test to see what is going on inside again too, after it does turn over.

Karl
 
Thanks guys for the advice....Still no joy with the problem though!!! Replaced the cables, brand new starter in situ, battery is good.....stripped the head down and all internals look good, cleaned the RAVES etc etc replaced all the above still no joy

Removed the carbs/exhaust manifold and cleaned them....whilst in this position cranked it over with the plugs in (but no plug leads) and it still locked up, I can see that the position of the pistons is when one is dropping (i.e. firing stroke) and the other is heading up (just fininshed the exhaust stroke) the engine locks in that position.

It appears that theres too much pressure in the chambers for the engine to turn....please help as this is now becoming tedious.
With the plugs out the engine spins away lovely!!!!

I have noticed that the oil pump appears a bit stiff (although can't see this being the problem), intend to replace this as well.

Any ideas will be greatfully accepted and attempted

Cheers guys

Benchy
 
Starter

pull the starter out and test it you can do this with a car charger if it spins on the charger the starter is ok if not it's shot also when starter is out check the starter gears for ware.
 
just wondering if this problem was ever resolved? Im having the same issue and cannot figure it out.
 
xp800 said:
just wondering if this problem was ever resolved? Im having the same issue and cannot figure it out.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately this issue has not been resolved, although I have not spent much time looking at it since the above posts that I made.

Right i've had an idea, can you guys tell me if its possible??

Without the plugs in the engine turns over great!!!
With the plugs it the pistons seem to lock half way into each stroke, could this be attributed to the rotary valve being in an incorrect postiton?? suchas as the piston is dropping after the spark plug has fired, then the rotary valve being closed hence causing too much 'back pressure' to allow the piston to drop to the bottom of its stroke??

Also could a broken oil pump cause any such issues??

Cheers guys
 
No No and NO ,

its either the starter or the batt...
take the plugs out and turn the PTO by hand. if you can freely spin the motor go back to the above two items!!!!
 
Turn it over by hand with plugs in, then if that locks up turn the motor over by hand with the plugs out, see how it feels turning it by hand slowly
 
All Things Custom said:
No No and NO ,

its either the starter or the batt...
take the plugs out and turn the PTO by hand. if you can freely spin the motor go back to the above two items!!!!
Click to expand...

Right I have done this, the results are: PTO turns easily with no plugs. When plugs are inserted I cannot turn it over (feels like too much pressure in cylinders) does exactly the same if I remove the starter motor. Therefore starter and battery are irrelevant.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!

:banghead:
 
benchy69 said:
Right I have done this, the results are: PTO turns easily with no plugs. When plugs are inserted I cannot turn it over (feels like too much pressure in cylinders) does exactly the same if I remove the starter motor. Therefore starter and battery are irrelevant.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!

:banghead:
Click to expand...


Everyone is trying to help...........none of us have the ski in front of us to work on and check things out....therefore we are guessing to as why.....may I suggest taking it to a seadoo tech?
 
possible fix

I believe Your crankcase is full of gas and oil and it is hydrolocking the motor. try taking plugs out and take the fuel line off that comes from the motor to carb # 1 and that comes from gas tank to carb. and as ur turning over motor hold throttle and drain all gas and oil inside and then put plugs back it and hook gas back up and you shouldnt have the problem any more. all this is, is a major flooding issue. The same thing happened to me on a 96 gsx and it fix the problem.
 
So was this the problem after all? Been to busy to check and see if this is actually the problem with mine. I'm hoping thats all it is. Hopefully I'll get some time today to have a look at it. Really dont want to start blowing money on a battery and starter plus my time to change it all out.
 
had the exact same problem on my 97 xp after top end rebuild. i thought it had too much compression ( but no tester). it turned out that the crank bearings were finished and the engine under pressure didnt turn quite straight. after complete rebuild, starts fine.
 
dont think its the crankcase being full of oil and gas, cause with plugs out, that crap would shoot everywhere.

Still think its combination with cables-grounds, or starter, thats if your "battery" is good. Have yuo had it load tested?
 
:agree: with Timmy,

It really just seems like your starter either is not getting enough power to it or is not strong enough to handle the load with the plugs in, when the plugs are in the motor is harder to turn because of the compression but when the plugs are out you can turn it easy by hand, you will have to have the starter load tested to be sure if it is good, and check again your main ground and starter hot connection. I think it is just not able to turn over the motor, since you have checked your compression, the us conversion for 11.5 bar is 166.79psi..... and could be related to any mod's done like shaving your head. Find out what compression your motor should have, but I don't think that it is high enough to cause that, is that starter brand new? and did you just replace the starter because of this issue yet yeilds the same results?
 
what has happened/cause this leading up to this point? has anything been done resently to may have caused a problem, like a resent rebuild? or did this just come out of the blue? where you riding it at the time and it shut down and would not restart? these things will help us pin point the problem faster.

Spray some oil down each spark plug hole spin the pto by hand a couple of times, put the plugs back in and then see if it will turn over....
 
hi all ive got the exact same problem on my xp 97. I never used it last year but did start it every now and again on the trailer but this year ive come so start it and a just get a clunk and the engine turns over very slowly but when i take out the spark plugs it turns over nice. Ive replaced the starter and bought a new battery. ive bypassed all the cables by connecting the new battery(using large tested battery which runs an 8 tonne generator) to the starter and still nothing ive taken the hoses off the carb to the engine and from the tank and turned it over with the plugs out pulling the trottle and still no change so I dont think it is hydro locked. I can turn the pto by hand when the spark plugs are removed but not when they are in place. Ive also removed the head and there are no signs of damage to the pistons. im running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Neil
 
hey neill...if you put "good" battery strate to the starter, with plugs in, and still nuth'n, then that starter is junk. Is it ones from ebay for 50-70 buks, if so, thats ur problem. Take the oem one, crack it open, and replace the brushes. Get them at hardware store, and take an eraser and clean the armature, or if your into RC Cars, cut/trim the armature to expose new/clean surface for brushes to make contact and clean the "grooves" in between.
 
Thanks timmy for coming back but the starter is not from ebay its from the local seadoo shop as i say it turns with the plugs out just not with them in?
 
Greetings smittys,
I'm having the exact same problem in my 96 Challenger 787 engine after being stored since last season. Is there a more detailed procedure on draining the major flood of the engine?
Do I understand that the oil may have leaked very slowly over a period of several months and caused this to happen?
Do I need to replace the seals? If so are these the crankcase seals?
Thanks again,
Steve
 
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