SeaDoo Rubber Mats

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etemplet

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Just musing about these riveted rubber mats. Every time I remove these mats the fiberglass surface under it is cracked where the rivets were installed. So far I've only replaced with HydroTurf. Sealing the holes is a bit of a pain but as with all things... prep is so very important.
 
It is very easy with the Bondoglass available at Walmart. As soon as it firms up cut off the excess with a razor blade and there is no cleanup.
 
I know you recommended that stuff a while back. I will give it a tray. The pain is the butt is there is like 70 holes If I remember correctly. I hate it. :)
 
I don't want to go against the advice of another very experienced moderator, but you really don't have to worry about those holes. I assume your talking about the rivets that use to put in the old black mats. On my 97 GTX, I pull up that old crap, popping out the rivets, took a hard paper, laid it down on the hull where you see the non-skid looking stuff, (or you can use the old ones if you didn't tear them up taking them out), and after drawing them on paper, I bought this 1/8" think, sanded on one side (it was 4x8, I think they use under sub flooring), laid out my paper, and bought a sheet of hydro-turf and made my own. I did a bit of custom too, where they wrap around the back. As for all those holes, I got a tube of pure silicone, then put a dab in each hole, smoothed it out with my finger. The good thing about using it is, it's pliable. If you use something that hardens up, it'll only pop out. If you aren't using the turf with the glue backside, I'd recommend using the 3M-99 adhesive. Mine has been on for over 8 years, and have only had to make minor repairs, in the foot area where it holds water. Good luck!
 
I don't want to go against the advice of another very experienced moderator, but you really don't have to worry about those holes. I assume your talking about the rivets that use to put in the old black mats. On my 97 GTX, I pull up that old crap, popping out the rivets, took a hard paper, laid it down on the hull where you see the non-skid looking stuff, (or you can use the old ones if you didn't tear them up taking them out), and after drawing them on paper, I bought this 1/8" think, sanded on one side (it was 4x8, I think they use under sub flooring), laid out my paper, and bought a sheet of hydro-turf and made my own. I did a bit of custom too, where they wrap around the back. As for all those holes, I got a tube of pure silicone, then put a dab in each hole, smoothed it out with my finger. The good thing about using it is, it's pliable. If you use something that hardens up, it'll only pop out. If you aren't using the turf with the glue backside, I'd recommend using the 3M-99 adhesive. Mine has been on for over 8 years, and have only had to make minor repairs, in the foot area where it holds water. Good luck!


Some people have experienced water seeping in after using silicone, I wouldn't recommend this for the long term.

Or die grind them out then fill with marine tex, sand smooth, then gelcoat over. Of course gelcoating is a lot work if you're not gelcoating the rest of the hull. I applied the mats after polishing.

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On my 97 GTX, I pull up that old crap, popping out the rivets, took a hard paper, laid it down on the hull where you see the non-skid looking stuff, (or you can use the old ones if you didn't tear them up taking them out), and after drawing them on paper, <snip>

I believe there is more than one way to Get R Done. I used a type of silicone adhesive that is paintable for my first to skis. I liked it because it filled the holes really well and I didn't have to worry about any leakage or at least I was comfortable. I cut it with a razor blade as well before my wife installed the HydroTurf. I used some marine grad fiberglass type bondo and it worked well. As Miki said, I just cut that off with a razor blade also. I friend gave me some contact info of a supplier of the matting which I may give it it a shot like you and cut my own. :) Thanks so much for the input. It is very much appreciated. :)
 
I use a flat scraper and hammer. It slices the rivets off flush under them and the pads just lift off. Apply hydroturf with the 3m backing and it seals the holes. Haven't looked more into it than that.
 
Ah, some excellent replies for the thread owner. In a few short notes, yes, nothing will stick to silicone, unless you apply something to it before it dries. All the above are very good answers. There are so many ways to skin a cat. As for the water leaking inside, that really shouldn't be a problem, as long as your peri-jet vacuum system is working well, pulling water from the hull. Which reminds me, you should clean those out once a year, to keep leaves and trash from stopping them up.
Some people have experienced water seeping in after using silicone, I wouldn't recommend this for the long term.

Or die grind them out then fill with marine tex, sand smooth, then gelcoat over. Of course gelcoating is a lot work if you're not gelcoating the rest of the hull. I applied the mats after polishing.

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Pix look awesome! See, some work put into that hull, removing those rivets. My GTX is a 1997. I popped those rivets off back in 2010, and as far as I know, the silicone is still under the mats, holding up well. Don't really know, I haven't taken them back up to replace them. Back around 2007 or 08, I did a couple plugs for Hydro-turf. I bought a sheet, made templates for my 97 Challenger, cut them up and installed with the 3M 99, they are still there too (which I keep it covered when not in use). Hydro-Turf sent me the pre-cut, two tone mats for my GTX for free. They only wanted me to take pix and kinda spread it around for them. It was when they first came out with the two tone mats. Those pix of the boat and GTX are still floating around the forum some
Some people have experienced water seeping in after using silicone, I wouldn't recommend this for the long term.

Or die grind them out then fill with marine tex, sand smooth, then gelcoat over. Of course gelcoating is a lot work if you're not gelcoating the rest of the hull. I applied the mats after polishing.

View attachment 38320View attachment 38321View attachment 38322
I'm not about to disagree that there could be water seepage, but it should be minimal. You could use a two part epoxy, or other material. I'm just not fond of bondo, in my experience, it cracks and falls apart. Maybe in this new age, it's a lot better. The silicone? True, nothing sticks to it, unless you put something on it before it dries. I put my hydro-turf on my ski back in 2009, and it's still there. It was given to me by one of the sales reps, if I reviewed it for him, gave him my honest opinion. Here's a link to that thread, if anyone would like to check it out. Hydro Turf Discount 15% off!....
 
I just wanted to seal the holes but the silicone of course got a little bigger than the size of the holes. I had to cut it off with a blade and that was a pain. For this time, I wanted something a little quicker and easier to level off better than the silicone and retain it's ability to "stick" to a glued surface. It was way way quicker for the way I did it previously. I don't look at this as a big thing and life is choices
 
Bondo Glass isn’t like Bondo body filter, it’s basically kitty hair with polyester resin and is made for marine repair.

Don’t just cut or shear the rivets off and turf over them as they always leak water. I have seen 3 skis ruined from flooded engines over the years from doing this and leaving the plugs in over the winter.

The water was up to the foot trays inside and out. The skis would have sunk if left in the water so plug the holes and keep the drain plugs out whenever the skis aren’t in the water.
 
Truth on keep the drain plugs open when the ski is out of the water. I was shocked to find my ski that doesn't leak in the water with about 4 inches of water inside the ski.
 
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