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seadoo explorer still having trouble help...video link

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Richard Naugle

Richard Naugle

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hi everyone first let me say thanks to everyone for answers to previous posts on this problem..
now i got good compresion,thought it was bad but i wasn't holding the throttle open when testing
cleaned the carbs and got good fuel flow
cut the wires bac 1/4 inch
got a new plugs wich are giving of a good orange spark

still not workin' right so hear is link to a video of my boys ridin' around in it with audio so you can here what it is doing
hope you can help..
rick in the barn again with the boat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IL1zUybc3M
 
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It sounds like the seadoo is bouncing off the rev limiter. I would check the jet pump as it sounds like it needs a wear ring.

I fixed your video link too, as you had 2 http//.....



Also check the safety rev limiter switch, in the gear shift lever assembly, as it might be stuck and not allow it to over rev thinking it is in neutral. I have some do exactly like yours. Remove the 4 screws at the square plastic plate at the controls and the 4 screws under the plate ...the switch is between the throttle and the shifter.


Karl
 
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thanks for the reply carl.. will it be obvious with a visual inspection that the wear ring is toast or do i have to measure it up someway??
thanks for fixing the link
 
Look in the jet nozzle/ from the rear. It should be like paper thickness/ actually its .040"...you need a special guage 12 inches long and measure the middle of the blades on the impeller. I really think the small micro switch in the controls is sticking. It is there so you can't rev it up in neutral. If it sticks it would do exactly what I heard in the video.

Karl
 
can you enlighten me oh wise one on what and where i might find a micro switch??
this boat doesn't have like a neutral ,although on the label above the controls it dose show fwd ntrl and rev.. but you can't actually take it out of gear like the newer bigger boats
 
Richard Naugle said:
can you enlighten me oh wise one on what and where i might find a micro switch??
this boat doesn't have like a neutral ,although on the label above the controls it dose show fwd ntrl and rev.. but you can't actually take it out of gear like the newer bigger boats
Click to expand...

yeah, Karl was refferring to the "nuetral safety switch", located inside the levers' assy unit...
 
The switch is in the controls. Read my earlier post I explained where it is. Post #2. the Micro switch is sticking. Just in case the boat has a broken gear selector it wont let it rev up in neutral...the switch thinks it's in neutral as it is sticking...

Karl
 
thanks guys but i'm getting confused here as my throttle is on the handelbar like a regular seadoo and the shift lever is down in the middle of thecontrol panel>>?
 
boat seadoo pwc line is a little blurry for me on the explorer and i never know which to actually call it..it's definitely an odd ball in the seadoo world.
 
alright stud...ripped thru the diagram of ur boat, and I cant find the "nuetral" switch, that is common on the later models, also, cant hear the link page, I messed up something with my p.c., an dnow, no sound

Check the "gap" between impellor/wear ring..you can visualy do it, and see if needs replaceing..:cheers:
 
thanks tim
and about the spark i'm running br8es instead of the br7es that seadoo calls for .the local dealer told me that is what everyone uses and they did not stock the factory originals.
i got a new mpem a new starter solenoid
i have a new battery and new plugs gaped to 20 thou and i trimmed the wires back and got some nice shiny silver to connect the caps to what else should i be doing for spark??
 
Richard Naugle said:
check the where the speakers plug into the computer?? lol
Click to expand...

:lols:....jerk (j/k), been there, done that, this morning. Even plugged in where mouse plugs to...same crap, NUTH'N.

For spark, check connections at ends of +/- cables...just know, mines' a blue spark. If not late, best time is evening, see the spark...:cheers:
 
Richard, I looked at video again...that thing has both handle bars and gear shifter...I'll check the manual for that switch...I listened close and it is banging off the rev limiter...not a wear ring problem. I'm not on my laptop and my wife's won't open the manuals. I'll get the info tomorrow from my puter and post where the switch is. Sorry about not having the information now for you...:(

Karl :cheers:
 
does it sound like it is hitting the rev limiter at full throttle. cutting out at max revs? i can't tell because there is no tach on the boat.
if i run it on the hose it goes rigjht to wide open and there is no interuptionin the revs it just goes wide open and stays there
 
hey guys i just finished putting the carbs back together and getting them back on after cleaning and everything is good and running smooth did a comp test and have a 150 psi on both cylynders.. now the impeller and the wear ring,as viewed from the stern there is an obvious gap between them,,some marks and abrasions visible on the impeller but no visible brakes, bends or dents.wear ring however looks a little distorted and ragged,kinda oblong as there is more appears to be more clearance in some spots than in others..so is this just a wear ring replacement issue ??? how big a job is this..
 
Richard Naugle said:
does it sound like it is hitting the rev limiter at full throttle. cutting out at max revs? i can't tell because there is no tach on the boat.
if i run it on the hose it goes rigjht to wide open and there is no interuptionin the revs it just goes wide open and stays there
Click to expand...

You are right! It's hitting the rev limiter at 7000 RPM. You have a bad cavitation problem. Take the pump out and remove the impeller. No need to measure the clearance as with that amount of cavitation, the damage to the wear ring and impeller will be obvious unless there is a small stick stuck in the impeller. Make sure the leading & trailing edges of the impeller are in near perfect condition (no nicks or bends).

Chester
 
thanks 4 the reply chester.
how big a job is this are there any common problems i'm gonna need to be aware of . does the impeller and the wear ring come off as one piece??
 
It's a fairly easy job. You will need an impeller wrench to remove the impeller once you pull the pump off and remove the cone. The impeller shaft is in an oil bath and when you put it back together, you will have to pressure test it to make sure it doesn't leak. With the impeller off, use a die grinder to grind a groove in the wear ring to split it. You can then turn it into itself to pull it out.

Chester
 
40 buks for wear ring and anywhere from 25 buks to 50 buks, depend'n on who you use to refurbish the impellor..."impros" or sbt.
 
timmyboy76,
He's in Nova Scotia.

Richard Naugle,
$60 plus tax for the wear ring. Look around locally for a place to repair impellers. I might have a good used one I can sell you but you're better off fixing yours.

Chester
 
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