SeaDoo 717 bolt fell into carb and damaged rotary valve

[JAYSONFLYNN]

We were out riding this weekend and the SeaDoo 717 GTI just stopped running and would not start back. After searching SeaDooForum.com (best SeaDoo site ever) found that needed to check to make sure spark arrestor bolt had not came out and fell into the engine, since all the electronics were functioning. Sure enough, exactly what happened! When I rebuilt this thing a couple months ago installed shorter bolts with no lock-tite, what a dumb move! Not only did one of the bolts go into the rotary valve, the rest were loose too! The real bad thing is I installed the airbox back before this ride and never thought to check, would only had to pulled the arrestor out!

So here's what I have... the bolt didn't make it into the engine, but the rotary valve is warped with the bolt threads and a peice of the case welded onto it. Ordered a new rotary valve and hoping I can surface the case back down by hand. Here's how it looks.

 

[jts32]

Fortunately the visible damage doesn't appear to be too bad. Unfortunately the hidden damage will require a complete teardown of the motor. I'm sure the brass gear on the RV shaft has stripped and requires splitting the cases to repair correctly.

 

[rbulk]

this happen to me a year ago. not only does the rotary valve need to be replace there is a brass gear in engine that turns the valve that gear gets damage and for us we skipped a tooth so it would not run well

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Sucks. Self inflicted woulds are the worst.

 

[AKnarrowback]

For the future.

One trick I do is pulling the choke lever and wrapping a rag or tape around the cable to hold the chokes closed before I ever remove my flame arrestor element.

Remember that the bolts that hold the flame arrestor aluminum mount are a specific length so if they ever come loose they can't fall out of the hole they are in before the head contacts the flame arrestor element. Sort of a safety check built into the machine.

 

[motoring]

i drilled holes into those bolt heads and ran safety wire thru them incase they decided to come loose.

 

[NickCawks]

Lol I'm torn between immediately going out and doing that to the bolts on my ski or thinking how the heck do you unscrew them when they are tethered.

I'd love to see a pic of that motoring.

This thread has made me feel a lot better. Hearing that I'm not the only one who made this mistake.

Did this on a fresh rebuild at the start of summer. Second ride of the season second ride with the new motor. The motor was rebuilt by SES so I had to immediately burn my warranty and you guys know the rest of the story... Sent the motor in at the start of June, here we are at the start of October and I still don't have a motor back. 1 little screw blew the entire summer

 

[mikidymac]

You have to cut the wire when you safety wire them in. It isn't necessary if you use the correct length bolts they can't come out and fall in. And you should always be using thread lock on them anyways so not an issue.

 

[Chester]

[QUOTE="AKnarrowback, post: 680961, member: 89635"
Remember that the bolts that hold the flame arrestor aluminum mount are a specific length so if they ever come loose they can't fall out of the hole they are in before the head contacts the flame arrestor element. Sort of a safety check built into the machine.
[/QUOTE]
Exactly. Those bolts are made too long for a good reason.

Chester

 

[motoring]

i drilled holes into those bolt heads and ran safety wire thru them incase they decided to come loose.

i can send a picture when i winterize as they say no need to safety wire .i also made a gasket to go inbetween carbs and aluminum plate which is also not needed.. but i was running my ski for many hours when i was having carb issues without the complete flame arrestor intake assembly so thats what i did ...etc etc safety wire is good for any bolts u may have an issue with coming loose. which over the years i had many nuts and bolts that came loose even with red locktite

 

[mikidymac]

i can send a picture when i winterize as they say no need to safety wire .i also made a gasket to go inbetween carbs and aluminum plate which is also not needed.. but i was running my ski for many hours when i was having carb issues without the complete flame arrestor intake assembly so thats what i did ...etc etc safety wire is good for any bolts u may have an issue with coming loose. which over the years i had many nuts and bolts that came loose even with red locktite

Not only that but installing safety wire correctly is an art. And can add 50% more power, Race Ready!

 

[NickCawks]

Neither of my skis came with these bolts and never really thought about it. Just slapped some spares from other places in.

Guess it's time to make an order.

Still would love to see an example of how people are drilling the hole for the safety wire.

 

[Chester]

Neither of my skis came with these bolts and never really thought about it. Just slapped some spares from other places in.

Guess it's time to make an order.

Still would love to see an example of how people are drilling the hole for the safety wire.

If you know what you're doing, safety wire is no needed.

Chester

 

[racerxxx]

For the future.

One trick I do is pulling the choke lever and wrapping a rag or tape around the cable to hold the chokes closed before I ever remove my flame arrestor element.

Remember that the bolts that hold the flame arrestor aluminum mount are a specific length so if they ever come loose they can't fall out of the hole they are in before the head contacts the flame arrestor element. Sort of a safety check built into the machine.

You know, if you pull the choke cable out you can rotate the T handle left it right and it will lock in place. It's like having a 3rd hand.

 

[Lothsahn]

You know, if you pull the choke cable out you can rotate the T handle left it right and it will lock in place. It's like having a 3rd hand.

Uh, wow. Mindblown.

You have no idea how many times I wished I was an octopus trying to start my seadoo (prior to rebuilding the carbs and adjusting idle).

 

[NickCawks]

If you know what you're doing, safety wire is no needed.

Chester

Reading that loud and clear from multiple people... Still I have an interest in seeing a picture of someones ski this has been done to.

I do not plan to do it, sounds like way to much unnecessary work. But I'm curious and would like to see

Uh, wow. Mindblown.

You have no idea how many times I wished I was an octopus trying to start my seadoo (prior to rebuilding the carbs and adjusting idle).

Right there with you. I had to run downstairs and try this on one of my skis immediately

 

[AKnarrowback]

You know, if you pull the choke cable out you can rotate the T handle left it right and it will lock in place. It's like having a 3rd hand.

Gotta find the JB Weld...... The handle pulled off the cable on the last ride..... More like it fell off in two pieces. Freezing temps start next week so the last ride is Saturday. Got the sled in the garage getting regeared, short lug track, reclutch, shooting for 110 mph this year.

 

[motoring]

Reading that loud and clear from multiple people... Still I have an interest in seeing a picture of someones ski this has been done to.

I do not plan to do it, sounds like way to much unnecessary work. But I'm curious and would like to see


Right there with you. I had to run downstairs and try this on one of my skis immediately

ill try to send some pictures of a safety wire job i have on an engine

Lol I'm torn between immediately going out and doing that to the bolts on my ski or thinking how the heck do you unscrew them when they are tethered.

I'd love to see a pic of that motoring.

This thread has made me feel a lot better. Hearing that I'm not the only one who made this mistake.

Did this on a fresh rebuild at the start of summer. Second ride of the season second ride with the new motor. The motor was rebuilt by SES so I had to immediately burn my warranty and you guys know the rest of the story... Sent the motor in at the start of June, here we are at the start of October and I still don't have a motor back. 1 little screw blew the entire summer

i didnt winterize ski yet so ill send a picture of my race outboard without the safety wire these nuts come loose all the time and the nuts are holding the powerhead onto the midsection ..since i safety wired them they never come loose ..... of course some will say studs are rusted etc etc etc lol safety wire works it is a pain but when needed it holds . the wire pulls the nuts in a tightening direction blah bah . the middle picture is the easest one to make sense off. The far left picture is a three way . if the other nuts are next to each other you can safety one nut to the next . etc etc at 108 mph lots of nuts and bolts come loose on a 40's 50's mph jet ski you probably dont ever need safety wire. but i safety wire where i feel a nut or bolt can come loose and cause me some trouble, i find safety wire only takes me a couple of minutes . so no biggie.