I have a 2008 RXp-X and every time I take it out on the sea it takes on a hell of a lot of water and almost sinks. When I get it back to shore and remove the seat it has about 6 inches of water in it. I have had it back at the dealers and they have told me there is nothing wrong with it. Any ideas??
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RXPX taking on water
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Well...........there has to be something wrong with it. Dealers.
Being an '08 it should be under warranty and they need to figure it out. It's got to be coming in through the jet pump area some how. I'm not real familar woth the four tecs but I do know it has a closed looped cooling system so the water should not coming from there.
Anyway you can ride it with out the seat on to try to see where it's coming in at?
Being an '08 it should be under warranty and they need to figure it out. It's got to be coming in through the jet pump area some how. I'm not real familar woth the four tecs but I do know it has a closed looped cooling system so the water should not coming from there.
Anyway you can ride it with out the seat on to try to see where it's coming in at?
sporsterjoel
New Member
Check all the exaust cooling lines for leaks. But im guessing you have a problem with the bailer system witch is designed to drain any water out of the craft while your driving. Your best bet is toget a shop manual and trace the bailer lines for leaks cause i think this is your problem. Bailer lines are small clear lines. They are nitorios for leak cause seadoo uses zip ties to hold them on and if one comes off it will let water in. I had on come off and almost sank my boat. You can also tie the ski to the trailer REALLY GOOD and start it up in the water while on the ramp and have a good look to see if you can see where your leak is.
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Thanks Gents........When I took it back to the dealer, sfter 10 hours use, they wanted me to pay $400 for the messing around even though they said there was nothing wrong with it. I took it out on flat water and it seemed ok. I will say is it only does it in choppy water. I know these things are not "Watertight" but I also have an RXP and it only has a few drops of water in it after going out at the same time. I was wondering if it would be worth having a bilge pump fitted or am I just trying to overlook another problem?
Stealer Ships?......
I'll try not to get on my soap box but as Ryan said, your problem is the stealership you bought it from. They probably were kissing your boots the entire time you were shopping for it, then as soon as you put your John Hancock on that contract, you were yesterdays news. They get their money off the top.
You could continue to take it back ,time after time but you'd probably have a lot less hair or have used a lot of choice words, you wouldn't normally use by the time it was fixed. If they fixed it at all. Why continue to waste your time. Lets fix it then you can go back and tell them what was wrong (that info you got from a "real seadoo mechanic!".....
First, I'd check to make sure your bailer siphon tubes are in place. There have been a few posts where the ski had lost them. They are removable but once in place, should not come out. They are listed as part #28 http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=161&B=14 and work on the "eductor" principle for creating a vacuum on two lines to draw water from your hull.
These lines come in from the back of the hull, where the pumps two venturi lines come in and go to your drain plugs. One on each side.
What you'll be looking for is that the lines come in and up, making a "U" and back down to the plugs. The reason you need to make sure they come in and up is because if they've fallen into the hull, after you come off plane, they will bring water in the reverse direction, back through the bailers. You'll also see a 90* nipple where they come to the top of the hull, tied in place usually with tie wraps.
There are other things of more concern. The O.P.A.S (off power assited steering) system has thru hull fittings and has water connections. If a bushing or something is amiss, you'l get water in the hull. This, you will need to bring into the stealership and point it out. Grab them by the back of the head and shove their nose down to the part you found leaking.
Like sporsterjoel said, a good way to test is to tie up to dock somewhere and power up with the seat off. You don't need WOT, but some power up to search and look. Have a flashlight and mirror handy. I would be lost without my mirror. Being able to cock it sideways in the bottom of the hull, using my flashlight to light it up and look under the engine and toward the O.P.A.S. system.
There are many areas outside these two that I've discussed. So, take your time and look over all. If you have problems, check the few that we've listed here, come back and we'll go over a few more things.
I see you posted while I was making this post. A bilge pump should not be needed if it's working correctly. I would have never paid them guys a penny!....it's their job to satisfy a customer. I could see it if this was a 2000 model.
If your having probs only on the chop, then is it possible your busting waves into the vents and not staying on plane long enough to drain the hull? You do have to be on plane for the bailer system to work.
I'll try not to get on my soap box but as Ryan said, your problem is the stealership you bought it from. They probably were kissing your boots the entire time you were shopping for it, then as soon as you put your John Hancock on that contract, you were yesterdays news. They get their money off the top.
You could continue to take it back ,time after time but you'd probably have a lot less hair or have used a lot of choice words, you wouldn't normally use by the time it was fixed. If they fixed it at all. Why continue to waste your time. Lets fix it then you can go back and tell them what was wrong (that info you got from a "real seadoo mechanic!".....
First, I'd check to make sure your bailer siphon tubes are in place. There have been a few posts where the ski had lost them. They are removable but once in place, should not come out. They are listed as part #28 http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=161&B=14 and work on the "eductor" principle for creating a vacuum on two lines to draw water from your hull.
These lines come in from the back of the hull, where the pumps two venturi lines come in and go to your drain plugs. One on each side.
What you'll be looking for is that the lines come in and up, making a "U" and back down to the plugs. The reason you need to make sure they come in and up is because if they've fallen into the hull, after you come off plane, they will bring water in the reverse direction, back through the bailers. You'll also see a 90* nipple where they come to the top of the hull, tied in place usually with tie wraps.
There are other things of more concern. The O.P.A.S (off power assited steering) system has thru hull fittings and has water connections. If a bushing or something is amiss, you'l get water in the hull. This, you will need to bring into the stealership and point it out. Grab them by the back of the head and shove their nose down to the part you found leaking.
Like sporsterjoel said, a good way to test is to tie up to dock somewhere and power up with the seat off. You don't need WOT, but some power up to search and look. Have a flashlight and mirror handy. I would be lost without my mirror. Being able to cock it sideways in the bottom of the hull, using my flashlight to light it up and look under the engine and toward the O.P.A.S. system.
There are many areas outside these two that I've discussed. So, take your time and look over all. If you have problems, check the few that we've listed here, come back and we'll go over a few more things.
I see you posted while I was making this post. A bilge pump should not be needed if it's working correctly. I would have never paid them guys a penny!....it's their job to satisfy a customer. I could see it if this was a 2000 model.
If your having probs only on the chop, then is it possible your busting waves into the vents and not staying on plane long enough to drain the hull? You do have to be on plane for the bailer system to work.
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sporsterjoel
New Member
did they do the 10hr service while you were there????
I think I need to get the thing back to the jetty and start it up then....including a mirror and flashlight!!! Many thanks for the help guys.
They actually wanted $600 for the "Repairs and servicing" Obviously the 10 hour service is my problem, but I ended up agreeing to paying half of the suggested $400 for the "Repairs". However, I did explain that I wanted the money back if it bagan to leak again. They were more interested in whether or not I had turned the ski over, which i had not.
One thing I think it may be worth telling you helpful lot, when I first got the ski brand new, I took it out and launched it, I went about 150m and all hell broke loose, it started overheating and allarm beepers going off, I switched it off, waited a couple of minutes and then basically pointed it in the direction of the beach and started it. Once on the beach, took the seat off ........the thing was boiling over!!!!I could see no obvious ommisions etc, towed it round to the tralier with the other ski and winched it back on. I then noticed one of the bungs missing out of the top of the "jetdrive" not sure what you call it. Anyway took it back to the dealers and they had it for a week. Apparently this and that had melted and they had to replace some parts etc. They never charged me or anything but said i was an oversight Could this have done any damage and caused the water problem?
They actually wanted $600 for the "Repairs and servicing" Obviously the 10 hour service is my problem, but I ended up agreeing to paying half of the suggested $400 for the "Repairs". However, I did explain that I wanted the money back if it bagan to leak again. They were more interested in whether or not I had turned the ski over, which i had not.
One thing I think it may be worth telling you helpful lot, when I first got the ski brand new, I took it out and launched it, I went about 150m and all hell broke loose, it started overheating and allarm beepers going off, I switched it off, waited a couple of minutes and then basically pointed it in the direction of the beach and started it. Once on the beach, took the seat off ........the thing was boiling over!!!!I could see no obvious ommisions etc, towed it round to the tralier with the other ski and winched it back on. I then noticed one of the bungs missing out of the top of the "jetdrive" not sure what you call it. Anyway took it back to the dealers and they had it for a week. Apparently this and that had melted and they had to replace some parts etc. They never charged me or anything but said i was an oversight Could this have done any damage and caused the water problem?
sporsterjoel
New Member
I cant picture what you talking about with the jet drive? can you post a pic?
This is the part form the parts site. It's number 5 on the list.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=161&B=14 on the propulsion system external
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=161&B=14 on the propulsion system external
sporsterjoel
New Member
um ive never seen that part fail. chech you bailer tubes that hook to the inside of the pump and make sure it intaked. ill try and post a pick so you know what to look for
sporsterjoel
New Member
Thats wierd. my camera isnt workin.... just tried it. My best advise is to look everthin over really good. water could be coming from a number of things.
areas to look over
1) Bailer system
2) Exaust cooling system
3) Carbon seal
4) OPAS system
5) Rub Rails and tow hooks
areas to look over
1) Bailer system
2) Exaust cooling system
3) Carbon seal
4) OPAS system
5) Rub Rails and tow hooks
Checked the bailer tubes, they were literally touching the supercharger, I couldn't see any damage or melted sections. Clipped them up and will now try it on the trailer in the water.Some one has had them off at some stage, there were quite a few spent nylon zip ties lying on the bottom of the hull. Here's hoping!!!!
sporsterjoel
New Member
compare them to were the lines are on your RXP, They should be very close if not the same. :cheers:
mday02
New Member
one of the "bungs missing out of the top of the "jetdrive"" provides water under pressure to the OPASs' rams. There is a white nylon 90 degree fitting with a useless gauze strainer in it that fails. This connects to a black hose about 3/4" which goes thru the hull and out both sides to the OPAS vanes. The seal on the hull for these water supply lines near the OPAS is part of the OPAS fitting to the hull and this water passes through it. As you speed up, the pressure from the jet pump lifts the rams on the OPAS vanes out of the water, and vice versa. Useless in a sea situation going in and out of chop and when the jet pump unhooks (vanes drop down at speed) so I removed them. Eventually something gets through the gauze strainer and the rams in the OPAS start jamming, one at a time to help it develop a lean to one side at certain speeds. The rubber tubes that go through the hull for the OPAS linkages are also a source of failure. Evenually the rubber fails and there is a direct route into the hull. . I took it all out and sealed it up with RIVAS Pro block off kits. Now have lower fuel consumption and much smoother ride in the sea. On a seadoo wake, there is another bung which feeds water to the ballast tanks filling lines but this is all external to the hull so water would not get in from here.
Jesus!!!! I hope this is not the case, the ski is only 3 months old and has just had it's 10 hour service. I will take a look at that end of the ski later, on good advice I ma going to put the thing in the water whilst strapped to the trailer and see what happens.
Many thanks for the advice! I just hope you are totally wrong before I have to start taking parts off it!!hahahaha
Many thanks for the advice! I just hope you are totally wrong before I have to start taking parts off it!!hahahaha
sporsterjoel
New Member
I think what hes saying is opas is a pain in the but at higher speeds. Its ment to help docking. stands for off powers asist steering. But at higher speed like when you cross a wake it will try to pull from left to right and vise versa, It makes the ski feel less stable. Also if you remove opas you will get better ruff water ride, handling and more room to work inside the ski. Good luck finding your fix, keep us posted with what you find.
This was one of the other items I mentioned in my original post. I just have had no experience with it. It's obvious, he has. This should be of concern to you because it does have the ability to cause a good source of vast amounts of water in the hull............but, being only a few months old, I'd find this problem as soon as possible so you can get it fixed while it's under warranty!
mday02
New Member
sorry.. I do not mean to cause alarm. My ski is 10 mths old. I have never had a drop of water in the hull even before removing the OPAS. These skis are remarkable piece of technology and from what I have seen the build quality is excellent. But when you remove OPAS, you see how it works and if some of the joints inside are not good or the rubber seals through the hull are not good, it is a source of fault. With any boat, I dread any drill hole thru the hull. With any machinery, there is the risk of early failure and if you pass that point, good maintenance will usually ensure very good life for the equipment.
The trial on the trailer is a good idea to get to the source, and have it repaired under warranty. In my situation, I am near sand and in the sea all the time. OPAS probably works well in fresh water in lakes on smooth water. In the ocean, it is not the same and when the pressure drops off from the pump after unhooking from the water, jumping over the chop, the OPAS vanes drop down, and then you hit the water again travelling at 70km/hr with 2 dragging pieces of plastic in the water, until the pressure in the pump builds up and lifts them again. It happens quickly but it does happen. There are no control "smarts" in the system to cope with this situation. So I removed them. Less control at lower speeds, no arguement about whether they are good or in a situation circling to pick up a skier. But in an ocean chop situation, it is best without them
The trial on the trailer is a good idea to get to the source, and have it repaired under warranty. In my situation, I am near sand and in the sea all the time. OPAS probably works well in fresh water in lakes on smooth water. In the ocean, it is not the same and when the pressure drops off from the pump after unhooking from the water, jumping over the chop, the OPAS vanes drop down, and then you hit the water again travelling at 70km/hr with 2 dragging pieces of plastic in the water, until the pressure in the pump builds up and lifts them again. It happens quickly but it does happen. There are no control "smarts" in the system to cope with this situation. So I removed them. Less control at lower speeds, no arguement about whether they are good or in a situation circling to pick up a skier. But in an ocean chop situation, it is best without them
I have just had the ski in the water for about half an hour on the trailer. I just let it tick over at first whilst got out the mirror and the torch. Didn't see any leaks apart from the water that was already in there......water that had probably been there sice I flushed the thing out. I also gave if a few revs etc, moved the steering from side to side, put it in reverse and tried the same........same again!!!
Any other possible ideas Gents???
Any other possible ideas Gents???
bailer tubes?....
You mentioned that the bailer tubes were left dangling in the hull. With them not attached up near the top, the water can back flow through the tubes and into the hull while off plane. So, you may have fixed this problem without any further problems. I'd say make another run out in the rough and see what you get...............:cheers:
You mentioned that the bailer tubes were left dangling in the hull. With them not attached up near the top, the water can back flow through the tubes and into the hull while off plane. So, you may have fixed this problem without any further problems. I'd say make another run out in the rough and see what you get...............:cheers:
mday02
New Member
I thought Seadoosnipe's response was good. It provided a plausable reason for water getting in on a new ski and you had previously identified the problem with the bailer tubes. Was this the problem? Adding a bilge pump is a good solution as a backup if something unexpected goes wrong, as a second line of defense, but maybe removing the source of the leak is the first line of attack? Has the leak stopped?
I have installed a seperate electric bilge pump but it is only there if I have something unforseen. The pump adds the risk of it draining the battery if the engine is stopped. So it does not fix the problem, only helps to get by while a problems exists, I hope. You also need to have non return valves in the pipe from the bilge to the outer hull (even if it goes out above the water). Nothing beats having a vessel that will float when full of water, and an epirb, ICE. So I agree with Snipe's approach.
I have installed a seperate electric bilge pump but it is only there if I have something unforseen. The pump adds the risk of it draining the battery if the engine is stopped. So it does not fix the problem, only helps to get by while a problems exists, I hope. You also need to have non return valves in the pipe from the bilge to the outer hull (even if it goes out above the water). Nothing beats having a vessel that will float when full of water, and an epirb, ICE. So I agree with Snipe's approach.
tyjamesrxpx
New Member
i had exactly the same problem on my rxp-x and ended up smashing my steering assembly to bits becuase my ski was so heavy on the landing it hit the bottom haha
i was freakin thinking it was something major like something mentioned above (major leak etc)
turns out the rxp-x have a massive intake right under the rear of the seat!
take your seat off and have a look
you'll see a large intake and of course if your surf jumping or riding in choppy conditions where water is near this intake, its going to end up in your hull especially when your in the surf and the rear of the ski is submerged the water just pours straight in
whenever im surf riding now i stick a foam filter element into this intake to stop the water flooding in
i was freakin thinking it was something major like something mentioned above (major leak etc)
turns out the rxp-x have a massive intake right under the rear of the seat!
take your seat off and have a look
you'll see a large intake and of course if your surf jumping or riding in choppy conditions where water is near this intake, its going to end up in your hull especially when your in the surf and the rear of the ski is submerged the water just pours straight in
whenever im surf riding now i stick a foam filter element into this intake to stop the water flooding in
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