RXDI fuel pump issue, maybe.

[mc06]

Hello-to start I would like to note that I have done quite a bit of searching before asking, I promise!
I recently picked up 2 extremely low hour 2001 rxdi's. After about a week of maintenance, fuel draining an new batteries. I have finally pulled them out of the garage to start them up. (my first time). 1st ski fired up right away. 2nd is a no go. I noticed the on the second ski the fuel pump does not engage and start up when the DESS key is inserted. I've checked the fuses.

Any help would be appreciated!

Mike-

P.S. apologize for the typo on the title......

 

[Coastiejoe]

Fixed the title for you.

Check for voltage at the pump. If none, work your ways backwards. If it is there, you need a pump. If so, don't buy a cheap one. They simply don't hold up. 117 psi at idle for example.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

YEp, look for pump voltage. The thing is, the pump has to be up to producing the pressure without sucking too much current, the electronics of FI only leaves about 5A to operate the pump.

So choose pump wisely.

That said, I bet your old pump could use a good soaking and flushing in a volatile solvent, and a few raps on the side it might begin to run then let it flush out the gum and junk it might still be okay.

They fall victim to sitting for prolonged periods and get stuck. I've been able to get gerotor fuel pumps going again by forcing solvent through them and giving the side a tap against a solid object then once they do kick up and start running a bunch of junk comes out.

The brushes are up in the top parallel with the armature shaft immersed in fuel, and fuel passing through keeps them and the armature clean and cooled. Junk congeals in the gerotor and under the brushes/armature contacts, gumming up the works.

 

[mc06]

Fixed the title for you.

Check for voltage at the pump. If none, work your ways backwards. If it is there, you need a pump. If so, don't buy a cheap one. They simply don't hold up. 117 psi at idle for example.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for the title fix. And the help!

 

[mc06]

YEp, look for pump voltage. The thing is, the pump has to be up to producing the pressure without sucking too much current, the electronics of FI only leaves about 5A to operate the pump.

So choose pump wisely.



That said, I bet your old pump could use a good soaking and flushing in a volatile solvent, and a few raps on the side it might begin to run then let it flush out the gum and junk it might still be okay.
This sounds like a good start.


They fall victim to sitting for prolonged periods and get stuck. I've been able to get gerotor fuel pumps going again by forcing solvent through them and giving the side a tap against a solid object then once they do kick up and start running a bunch of junk comes out.

The brushes are up in the top parallel with the armature shaft immersed in fuel, and fuel passing through keeps them and the armature clean and cooled. Junk congeals in the gerotor and under the brushes/armature contacts, gumming up the works.

Thank you for the info. I will try this this weekend and report back.

 

[stout890]

How much voltage should I see at the pump?

 

[Coastiejoe]

How much voltage should I see at the pump?

12 volts. It should not be lower than 11.8 volts and it could be as high as the running/charging volts of 13.8-ish.

 

[stout890]

Thanks I'm currently changing my in tank filters and going to run the pump in solvent to clean it since it's been sitting for 11 years. And I'll check the voltage when I get it back in the ski.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

How much voltage should I see at the pump?

Well, these are 12V pumps and they run at full system voltage. If the voltage at the pump is around 10V or less, there's a good chance it won't run. In this case, the battery might be in poor condition or the pump itself might be jammed with debris. If the pump is jammed with corrosion debris (pretty common), you may not be able to make it run even with a good strong battery and plenty of voltage due to it's physically locked.

 

[stout890]

Iv finally gathered up the stuff to clean the pump. But just wondering now since I took the pump unit apart to remove the hidden filter, do I put it back together to run the pump in solvent or can/should I just run the actual pump by itself? I'm thinking I should run it without filters to allow the junk to flow out freely or is that bad for the pump to injest that junk?

 

[stout890]

So just to update my situation in case it helps someone else. I ended up putting the pump back together without the one way diaphragm and washe and no filters, so that way I had some fuel line to direct the fuel being pumped.. and so that I could hook up my fuel pressure gauge to test the pump. All in all I was able to pump up to 140psi and stopped since I was dead headed to the pump and didn't want to burst a fuel line.

I would say that this procedure to clean pumps is by far a better option than buying a aftermarket pump and dealing with those pumps that have there own issues and at best still isn't great. 10/10 times if your pump isn't seized or fried it will be fixed by this procedure