Running a jet ski out of water
- Thread starter tjakers2067
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Luv2Camp
Active Member
So guys this line is 3/32 ID? Cause I have a lot of different hardware and small engine shops around me that may have some.
Did you buy the ski with that oil line already broken or did that happen from working on it? If already broken, I would do minimal to the ski until you replace the lines to determine if the engine runs or not. Unless you are committed to spending whatever it takes to get the Seadoo running again.
Once you replace the oil lines, you will need to bleed the oil pump before you start it up.
tjakers2067
New Member
the line was off when I bought it, which is what I guess is what caused the oily bilge. I bought some line and fixed it. I'm planning on cleaning it tomorrow
tjakers2067
New Member
but I'm going to fire it up and make sure it isn't trash before I clean it. there is a chance I knocked the line off removing the carbs but I am not sure
I'd suggest a compression test then before you get too far. The engine may run on the trailer if low on compression, but not once in the water. You can buy a decent gauge for around $35 or borrow one from an auto parts store. A perfect 717 should have 150psi but you are mainly looking for the difference between cylinders to be within a few psi of each other.
tjakers2067
New Member
150 on both, and has great spark
tjakers2067
New Member
all I need is fuel now lol, I replaced all the lines, cleaned the carbs, siphoned all the old gas out the tank, bled the oil pump as good as I could with out actually running it. brand new spark plugs, and a brand new battery on the way. after the engine runs I need to replace the wear ring and she's ready for the summer.
1983
Well-Known Member
On newly aquired skis i always run em with premix fuel on maiden voyage, can't hurt and will protect engine in case something in oil injection system isn't working or has an air pocket etc. from replacing lines or servicing the system.
I am a firm believer in keeping the factory oil injection system also. Ive never had one fail.
Rob
I am a firm believer in keeping the factory oil injection system also. Ive never had one fail.
Rob
pwgsx
Well-Known Member
EVERY used ski I buy gets new fuel lines, oil lines and a carb cleaning. I then start the ski on a premix IV to the carbs and get the oil lines primed and all the air out. You can usually get the lines primed in under 30 seconds. I either do this with the pump out since I am replacing the wear ring OR run a small trickle of water on the carbon ring to keep it cool 
tjakers2067
New Member
Could I prime it by just cranking the engine or does it have to be running? Also what premix ratio do you run?
tjakers2067
New Member
I ran it for a few seconds the other day and I barely revved it and the line still has air in it. Would I need to go wot to bleed it?
If you are trying to bleed the 3/32 lines try and get ahold of the cable on the oil pump and run the engine at idle with the cable pulled to wide open on the pump. This may be difficult since the oil pump is under the carbs on a 717 vs on the mag cover for a 787. If you hold the oil pump wide open it will fill the lines in 10 seconds or so. Oil barely pumps at idle engine speed.
If there is air in the larger line feeding the oil pump then u need to manually bleed that line so the pump can get primed. There should be a bleed screw on the pump (there is on 951, and 787, but can't recall on the 717).
If there is air in the larger line feeding the oil pump then u need to manually bleed that line so the pump can get primed. There should be a bleed screw on the pump (there is on 951, and 787, but can't recall on the 717).
floatingRyan
Member
There is a bleed screw on the 717 for getting the air out of the larger oil hose. You may want to google around for the manual for your ski as it should show it and talk about it in there. I did my oil lines and did the method above where you pull the cable to help the oil pump through the lines. You should be able to see it pump up pretty quick. If you still have air in there, make sure your lines are tight and sealed. I ended up ordering oem oil lines for mine as the ones i took off were quite snug on the fittings compared to the lines I purchased which were supposedly 3/32 ID lines. They were much more loose and i couldn't snug it up enough to get the air bubble out. The oem's were super easy. Good luck to you, and yes, this site is great. I've had a ski for 2 summers now and this is the goto place for everything.
tjakers2067
New Member
The lines I used are super snug, and I have the manual and I read about it but I wanted to be sure before I did anything
Luv2Camp
Active Member
40:1. Need to be sure you are using a low ash oil though.
tjakers2067
New Member
How would I determine that?
Use seadoo oil or find another api-tc oil. You cannot use any tc-w3.
tjakers2067
New Member
How come no tc-w3?
tjakers2067
New Member
Can I use tc-w3 in the tank?
Never use tc-w3 in a seadoo. There are hundreds of threads on the topic. Bottom line it's cheap and full of detergents for the epa and just doesn't protect the engine well enough.
tjakers2067
New Member
Alright thank you
tjakers2067
New Member
I'll make sure to do that
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