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rotary valve oil lines.

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Paul Shaw

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Hello,let me start off by saying I am new to the forum.I have a 1992 Bombardier 580xp with the yellow rotax engine(correct me on the cc if I am wrong).I recieved the ski with no oil pump and all oil hoses laying in ski with gas line.I searched through the forum but cannot find a definite answer to my question.Number one,which line goes where on the engine.It already has a block off plate installed and manifold capped off.There are two large lines,and two barbs for those lines to hook.Does the line hooked to the bottom of the oil resivour hook to the bottom of engine for the rotary valve,or the top spicket?Next,Does the rotary valve pull its own oil or do you have to prime it like the injectors.I like this ski and sure would hate to screw up that brass rotary gear.Thank you for your time.
Paul
 
Welcome


The hose on the bottom of the tank will hook to the barb at the bottom of the engine, and the hose on the top of the tank hooks barb on the top of the engine case. (above the manifold)

The rotary valve really doesn't circulate oil. Basically, the cavity fills via the bottom hose, and vents out the top hose. So... the bottom hose will be full of oil, and the top will have air in it.

The reason we hook it to the tank, is because it's common for an old engine to have center seals that leak... and if you only filled the cavity, it would quickly deplete, and you would ruin the gears. When it's hooked to the tank, you will have a way of monitoring it.

Since your pump is gone... the proper mix will be 40:1, and you still need to run an API-TC oi.l. (no TC-w3 oils) Oh... and as long as you don't have a leak... the oil in the tank, feeding the gears, will never need more than a quart. If the level drops, that's a sign that the center seals are bad.
 
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Cheap doesn't exist, however you can get Quicksilver API-TC synthetic blend PWC oil at Walmart superstores.

Lou
 
I have on other question.I got the oil hooked up to the rotary valve and oil mixed in the gas,but am having a problem.The engine runs good hooked up to the garden hose but when in water it requires choke to run until WOT speed.I already ordered a rebuild kit(single carb).My question is,Is it safe to acid soak these carbs with the normal autoparts rebuild acid bat?Will it eat anything that is not replaceable,and is there anything I need to take out of the carb special to soak it in acid?Thank you for your time,Paul.
 
The carb dips that are available to the public these days are absolute crap. I stopped buying it about 15 years ago. It's good for cleaning deposits off the outside, and making the parts look nice... but since we have painted carbs... it just makes a mess. Also... it will never get into the small ports, and clean out any real blockages.

I recommend using spray cleaner, and compressed air.
 
Ok,Thank you.Would it be worth it to acid dip it first to get rid of years of crap?Then go at it with spray cleaner?
Paul
 
If your ski runs O.K. on a hose, and not in the water, you might want to check your compression.

Lou
 
Ok,Will check it today if I can rent a gauge at the auto parts store,But the engine was just rebuilt and bored out with new pistons and seals so It seems ok.Still will check it though because even a fresh rebuild can go bad.
Paul
 
I have another question.What is wrong with a TC-W3 oil.I already have A gallon of Lucas Semi synthetic 2 cycle oil,smokeless,low ash tc-w3 oil.Does it gum up the rotary valve?I am sorry,I do not know the back round of oil between synthetics and full petrolium base.Anyone feel free to tell me what i have missed.
Paul.
 
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