Reviews/Opinions on 98-06 SeaDoo GTXs

[dr00andrew]

New wear ring. Old one was completely shot, must have sucked something up or just never replaced it for a long time.

Carbs are rebuilt with genuine parts but still need to make a pop off tester. Still need to get new carb to manifold gaskets

As far as the engine mount shims go, they were only removed from the front mount, the back 2 were left in place. I have a buddy whose got plenty of experience re-installing engines into skis should i have any problems

 

[mikidymac]

You will have problems if you do not correctly align the engine.

 

[dr00andrew]

You will have problems if you do not correctly align the engine.

I meant he can help me re-align it because he does it all the time. Don’t worry i wont run it unless im sure its correctly aligned

 

[dr00andrew]

Okay 3 more questions. I blocked off the oil plate and will be running pre-mix. Should I just block/pinch off the old oil line that ran to the pump? I am also aware i need to still keep the oil reservoir full as the bottom end still needs lubricantion. Both oil lines to the block are connected and clamped on there.

My fuel gauge is not reading, so i have no way to tell if its full or not. Anyways which mark on the tank would be considered full? To the top of where those 2 indented lines end? the manual for the kit i got the blockoff plate from says 32:1 first tank and 40:1 after. Im gonna need to put 60 oz of 2 stroke oil in there since its a 15 gallon tank. Would 60 oz of oil with gas up to the top of those 2 indented lines be correct? I can always add more oil as spark plugs are much cheaper and easier to replace than an engine.

Lastly my fuel is not reading. I believe it is the film that needs replacing and not something to do with the sending unit. Is this the right guess? I have found the thread on replacing info center film

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, plug or cap off the oil line.

Welcome to the wonderful world of premix..... You need to get a 5 gallon gas can and a ratio-rite or a Quick2Mix cup. You have to use the correct amount of oil to gas and PRE-MIX it, you can't just dump oil into the tank and expect it to mix. I would suggest 40:1 unless you do a lot of long wide open runs then 32:1.

You can't just say I have a 15 gallon tank so I'll add X-amount o oil because the tank isn't always empty or at the same level. Plus there is no way to mix the oil completely in the ski tank.

And this is why so many of us keep the oil injection because premixing is a mess and not fun.

 

[dr00andrew]

Yes, plug or cap off the oil line.

Welcome to the wonderful world of premix..... You need to get a 5 gallon gas can and a ratio-rite or a Quick2Mix cup. You have to use the correct amount of oil to gas and PRE-MIX it, you can't just dump oil into the tank and expect it to mix. I would suggest 40:1 unless you do a lot of long wide open runs then 32:1.

You can't just say I have a 15 gallon tank so I'll add X-amount o oil because the tank isn't always empty or at the same level. Plus there is no way to mix the oil completely in the ski tank.

And this is why so many of us keep the oil injection because premixing is a mess and not fun.

I have 3 spare 5 gallon utility jugs i can use for pre-mix. I dont mind pre-mixing gas. been doing it all my life. i suppose i could just remove the tank and drain it, then add in my pre-mix to keep things simple.

what about the info center gauge? is that just the film or do i have issues with the fuel sending unit?

 

[mikidymac]

The film is bad but you won't know if it's the sending unit until you check the resistance. If it shows an open circuit then the F1 fuse is probable bad.

 

[dr00andrew]

The film is bad but you won't know if it's the sending unit until you check the resistance. If it shows an open circuit then the F1 fuse is probable bad.

yeah ive heard about the f1 fuse, seems kind of a pain to change but whatever. hopefully thats not the case.

 

[JeremyD615]

What’s your reason for premixing? The Sea Doo pumps are super reliable and there are quite a few downsides to going premix. You use a ton more oil premixing, foul plugs more often, and you’re much more likely to have someone accidentally put straight gas in it or get the mix wrong than you are to ever see a pump fail...

 

[GGuillot]

Lastly my fuel is not reading. I believe it is the film that needs replacing and not something to do with the sending unit. Is this the right guess? I have found the thread on replacing info center film

The info gauge repair is fairly easy, if you don't reuse the metal ring you can slip a large oring on it to clean it up. Use E6000 or contact cement when reassembly of the gauge face.

You'll need to pull the fuel sender to have a look what's going on, could be the float isn't floating and sitting at the bottom, or it dropped out and is in the tank somewhere, or the little F1 fuse in the baffle is breaking the continuity. Either way on the GTX it's easy to pull the sender up through the glove box compartment.

I wouldn't premix, one, it isn't necessary, two, if you do you'll use a shit ton of oil.

 

[dr00andrew]

What’s your reason for premixing? The Sea Doo pumps are super reliable and there are quite a few downsides to going premix. You use a ton more oil premixing, foul plugs more often, and you’re much more likely to have someone accidentally put straight gas in it or get the mix wrong than you are to ever see a pump fail...

Changing the oil lines seemed like a job i could screw up, i.e. not lining up the throttle position correctly with the marks, priming and bleeding the lines etc. i still have the pump and if the issues are too much with pre-mix, i can always put the pump back on.

I've never owned a 2 stroke thats not run on pre-mix. Just a personal preference. I dont worry about putting straight gas in as I am the only one who will be putting fuel into it. To me, its just easier to pre-mix the gas and know its in there. IDK i will see how it goes. I definitely hear your points as to why the pump is better, but its already been done. Like I said, I will see how it goes

 

[dr00andrew]

Im going to go back to the oil injection after i burn through the first tank of pre-mix. Based on the opinions of others, oil injection is the better choice.

I just want to make sure I do it correctly so i dont ruin my engine. As far as i know the procedure is this. Line the mark on the the bend with the mark on the pump. The first pic is the throttle position at idle and the 2nd is wide open. Is this aligned correctly or am I backassward?

2nd off you need to prime the lines with an electric drill in reverse, then you need to loosen the bleed screw and bleed the air out of the lines after priming it. Am i missing any steps and are they in the correct order? Only reason I chose to go pre-mix in the first place was due to my concerns about doing this procedure incorrectly. I do have my owners manual but just want to make sure its done correctly

 

[JeremyD615]

You’re actually making it more complex that it really should be... First off, your pictures look correct. The marks are lined up at idle, and it looks right at wot. Second, you don’t need to go through and Prime anything with the drill, especially if you’re running a tank of premix through it. Just plumb all the lines, fill the oil tank, and then open the bleed screw on the pump. It will gravity feed and fill the lines to the pump. Once the large lines are full and there are no bubbles in them, close the bleed screw and start the motor. Let it idle, and reach in with your hand to turn the oil pump lever to wide open. It will take 20-30 seconds, but you should see oil moving through the small injection lines from the pump to the manifold. Once those lines are full you are good to go. From there on out, you just need to change the inline filter and the small injection lines occasionally and it will be trouble free... It’s way simpler than some people make it out to be, and you’ll have less smoke, go through fewer spark plugs, and spend way less on oil than you would premixing. Good call on going back!

 

[dr00andrew]

just let me know if everything sounds okay. there is noise coming from the pump area, i have heard that is common and may not indicate a problem. I can tell you when i put in a new wear ring, the bearings in the jet pump were in excellent shape. spun well with no free-play and i re-filled it with 3 oz of pump oil upon reassembly. just let me know if theres anything to be concerned with there. im in no rush to get it in the water, but it will be soon.

also i noticed there is no neoprene seal between the pump housing and the boat. on parts site, they only make one for a 94-95 gtx and 96 is skipped. i read up on this forum that seadoo incorporated a "ride shoe hull" and theres no seal. anyways should a just order a 95 neoprene seal and stick it on there for good measure?

I rented an alignment tool from SBT. took my time, double and triple checked. the tool slid into the driveshaft perfectly with no resistance. took a little while to shim it up and get it aligned, but i feel confident it was done correctly. Put the shaft back in and it turns over very smooth with the plugs pulled, just like when i checked it out on purchase.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, you should add the neoprene seal.