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replacing fuel baffle?

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ya, its a pain on some models... the bottom line is that the fuel baffle has to come out, once out its relatively easy, pop the bottom, pull old magnet, put new one in, replace bottom carefully, put it back in the tank. (while its out.. you can test with an ohm meter to be sure that the old magnet was the issue, and that the new magnet works)
 
It will really help if someone can help out. Maybe a couple hours. But of course you need to be ready with the float. And if the baffle is bad, (F1 Fuse) then add an hour or so to fix that. Just make SURE to test it before you put it in. Also label the hoses, etc. You don't want to ever have to pull it out again.
 
Wait is the baffle same as the float? I need to change the float? Sorry im new to this

The baffle is the long tube assembly that goes into the tank, with the 4 fuel lines connected to it. The float rides up/down the inside of the baffle, to send the signal to the fuel gauge. When people talk about magnets, they are talking about the magnets that are glued (I think) to the float.

Here's a float repair kit, that shows the float assembly:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-Fue..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item1c3cd4bc6f&vxp=mtr

Here's some additional instructions for the float replacement:

http://www.seadoosource.com/fuelfloatinstall.html

Here's the instructions for doing a baffle fuse repair:

http://rivaforums.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6366050614/m/4411068803

Like Soccerdad said, be sure to check the assembly to make sure that it works, before putting it all back into the tank. You don't want to be doing this job any more than you need to. If it looks too daunting for you, there used to be a repair service that would take your old baffle and repair it for you. I don;t think it was too expensive either. That is what I'm going to do with both of mine, I'm not too good at soldering, especially something tiny, like the fuse int he baffle. My luck, it;ll blow up the first time I try to start it. lol Or, there are baffles all over EBay for under $100.
 
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On a 96GSX it's a real PIA, in fact when mine went bad I didn't even try to repair it, I just bought a new one because I didn't want to do the job twice.

Lou
 

That's the float assemble with the magnets. You might get lucky and that be the problem. Not sure how the GSX is, but in my XP, the hardest part was moving the gas tank forward. It got to where I could almost get the baffle out, and was really hard to move it that last 1/2". Now that I've done it though, it isn't too bad of a job. But, your tank may be shaped differently, that could be harder to get maneuvered.

That's the thing about working on these, sometimes, you get lucky and find an easy, cheap fix, sometimes it's something that seems easy, but ends up taking a full day to fix. But, in my experience, I've never had to fix anything twice.
 
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The kit has detailed instructions but does not show specifics on tank removal/maneuvers.

Ps. You will find the fuel selector replacement to be a breeze compared to this ;)
 
Dont forget to pull magnet out which is usually stuck half way up in tube. I have done 10 or so and never move tank. You can flex tube just hard enough with hoses off to get it out. 1 of 10 of jobs the screen on bottom popped off into tank. Ugg. This holds true on 96 XP. 20 min job. I can not validate on GSX .
 
what happens if you leave the magnet

Basically, just in case you've never dealt with a float, it floats on top of the fuel level because the baffle is hollow and allows fuel in. As the fuel is used, the float lowers inside the baffle, and the magnet sends a signal to the electronic sensor which is also in the baffle, to the fuel gauge to show how much fuel is left in the tank.

The magnet, if let in the baffle when you remove the old float, can will prevent the new float from going all the way up/down to show the fuel level.

Sorry if you already knew how it works, just making sure. :-)
 
disconnect the battery, drain a much of the fuel as possible, pull the mpem located on the port (right side) front of fuel tank, disconnect fuel filler hose,
release the 3 tank holder straps, label and remove the fuel hoses from the baffle and lift and push the fuel tank as far forward as you can and use a couple of 2x4 blocks to hold the rear of the fuel tank up. ive had to do this 3 or 4 times and has become an easy job with practice lol. the hardest part is getting all the fuel out. i found it easiest to remove the fuel with a drill pump and by removing the filler hose from the tank and draining it from there.
 
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If you need to drain the tank Harbor Freight sells a cheap little fuel pump for $6. in my experience it's been kind of a one time use thing it always seems to fail the second time I use it but for a one shot deal it works just fine.
 
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