flkeysdude
New Member
What's the trick to removing the start stop switch on a '97 GS...??? Any help is appreciated...
Thanks !
Thanks !
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Removing the start/stop switch...???
- Thread starter flkeysdude
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ski-d00
Well-Known Member
no trick, take the grip off, loosen the a set screw in the bottom of the housing, slide it a little bit(as much as the wires will allow), you'll see a retainer piece to unscrew that holds the switch in the housing. unplug the connector under the hood, yellow/red and black, use terminal tool to remove the terminals from the connector, use black tape and tape a fish wire to the 2 wires and pull it out. if you're lucky you can just tape the new one back on to the fish wire and pull it through but it's not a big deal to take off the handlebar cover, takes 2 minutes.
flkeysdude
New Member
Thank you...!!! Handlebar grip is tight, feels like it's been glued on (???)...I just didn't want to bugger it up trying to remove it...
flkeysdude
New Member
"GREAT"...idea !!!
I think I'm pretty mechanical, but...I would have never thought of that one...!
Thanks ! You guy's are unbelievable...!!! FWIW...mid-summer, I purchased a '97 GS ($800.00 w/trailer) that ran OK but had been neglected. Then I picked up a 2001 GS ($100. w/cover and trailer) that had hit a rock and was sunk. That boat sat idle (outside in New England winters) for at least two-three years. I'm attempting to clean up the '97 (changing the fuel lines and filters, fixing the fuel baffle and checking out the start/stop switch). My next project is to see if I can get the 2001 running. That engine wouldn't turn over so I soaked the cylinders w/WD40 and (very gently...) worked the driveshaft w/a pair of vicegrips. It broke free and now turns easily. Compression is 155-160 in the cylinders. I get two beeps when I try the DESS key. I cranked the engine over to get rid of any water in the cylinders. I don't have manuals on these boats but have "gone to school..." on this forum. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions, going forward. I genuinely appreciate all the help and great info that you guy's provide...
Thanks again ! :cheers:
I think I'm pretty mechanical, but...I would have never thought of that one...!
Thanks ! You guy's are unbelievable...!!! FWIW...mid-summer, I purchased a '97 GS ($800.00 w/trailer) that ran OK but had been neglected. Then I picked up a 2001 GS ($100. w/cover and trailer) that had hit a rock and was sunk. That boat sat idle (outside in New England winters) for at least two-three years. I'm attempting to clean up the '97 (changing the fuel lines and filters, fixing the fuel baffle and checking out the start/stop switch). My next project is to see if I can get the 2001 running. That engine wouldn't turn over so I soaked the cylinders w/WD40 and (very gently...) worked the driveshaft w/a pair of vicegrips. It broke free and now turns easily. Compression is 155-160 in the cylinders. I get two beeps when I try the DESS key. I cranked the engine over to get rid of any water in the cylinders. I don't have manuals on these boats but have "gone to school..." on this forum. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions, going forward. I genuinely appreciate all the help and great info that you guy's provide...
Thanks again ! :cheers:
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
the stock grip is bolted on from the end, not glued on. remove the end cap and remove the bolt, then pull it off.
if the engine sat with water in it for years, there's no point in trying to save it. sure, you can get it freed up and even running but it won't last. usually the first or second trip out it will self destruct and you'll do more damage. when the bearings get rust in them, they will pit and then generate heat and then fail. that's why a flooded engine needs immediate attention.
if the engine sat with water in it for years, there's no point in trying to save it. sure, you can get it freed up and even running but it won't last. usually the first or second trip out it will self destruct and you'll do more damage. when the bearings get rust in them, they will pit and then generate heat and then fail. that's why a flooded engine needs immediate attention.
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flkeysdude
New Member
Ouch...!!!
Ugh...!!! That makes sense...but...NOT what I wanted to hear !!! Oh well, guess I just bought myself a "spare parts" machine...
)
Ugh...!!! That makes sense...but...NOT what I wanted to hear !!! Oh well, guess I just bought myself a "spare parts" machine...
)flkeysdude
New Member
Another GREAT tip...
The handgrips have a rubber/vinyl plug in the end. Pop the plug and there is a 10mm hex head S. Stl. lag screw that holds it in place. Remove the lag & washer and it slides right off...
ski-d00...Thanks for the great advice...!!! :hurray:
The handgrips have a rubber/vinyl plug in the end. Pop the plug and there is a 10mm hex head S. Stl. lag screw that holds it in place. Remove the lag & washer and it slides right off...
ski-d00...Thanks for the great advice...!!! :hurray:
timmyboy76
New Member
run it...
by no means, am i contradicting what ski-doo is say'n, but if "you think" the motor is crap because water sat in it, then i'd, if the motor is freed up, would run the darn thing. If your gonna replace it, might as well use it while you can. You can find other places that dont need a "core" for a replacement motor.
My boat, for who knows how long, sat w/ water in both engines. The one was completely seized from "rust" in cylinders, and other one, had to replace the rv plate, because, water ate hole in it. So expelled water, freed up other motor, replaced the rv plate, and at this point, used the boat, i'd say, ATLEAST 50hrs this summer, wil no problems, AND all 4-barrells are hit'n at 155psi.
:cheers:
by no means, am i contradicting what ski-doo is say'n, but if "you think" the motor is crap because water sat in it, then i'd, if the motor is freed up, would run the darn thing. If your gonna replace it, might as well use it while you can. You can find other places that dont need a "core" for a replacement motor.
My boat, for who knows how long, sat w/ water in both engines. The one was completely seized from "rust" in cylinders, and other one, had to replace the rv plate, because, water ate hole in it. So expelled water, freed up other motor, replaced the rv plate, and at this point, used the boat, i'd say, ATLEAST 50hrs this summer, wil no problems, AND all 4-barrells are hit'n at 155psi.
:cheers:
flkeysdude
New Member
I'm in...
I'm at least going to try to get it running. For $100.00 (includes Karavan trailer...), how can I go wrong...???
You guys are GREAT...!!!
BTW...I just can't shake the mental picture of a honey dipped timmyboy as the filling of a lesbo sam'mich... ;o)
I'm at least going to try to get it running. For $100.00 (includes Karavan trailer...), how can I go wrong...???
You guys are GREAT...!!!
BTW...I just can't shake the mental picture of a honey dipped timmyboy as the filling of a lesbo sam'mich... ;o)
timmyboy76
New Member
BTW...I just can't shake the mental picture of a honey dipped timmyboy as the filling of a lesbo sam'mich... ;o)
I got pics....:biggrinjester:
I got pics....:biggrinjester:
flkeysdude
New Member
You ain't nuttin' but a tease... :reddevil:
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