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removing choke plates
- Thread starter Gotme1
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- BiRkS_
Active Member
Should be OK. you will need some sort of choke or primer system
The previous owner probly removed them and the shafts. Primer probly was inserted thru one side shaft hole. A Similiar senerio like the oil line spigot tubes on the rv cover, of oil injection system. opposite side probly a plug in the carb shaft hole.
You'd only rejet if yer changing air breather, like Proks, ect.
You'd only rejet if yer changing air breather, like Proks, ect.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
You'll be fine as far as jets are concerned if you use the original air box. I would prefer to have the choke plates operational myself, so I could choke the engine cold and also to stop a possible runaway on the trailer.
If you decide not to install the choke shafts, I would consider rubber plugs for the open holes(make sure the plugs can't be sucked into the reed valves!). But that's just my way of doing things.
If you decide not to install the choke shafts, I would consider rubber plugs for the open holes(make sure the plugs can't be sucked into the reed valves!). But that's just my way of doing things.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Why...?!....
Ok thanks guys. I would perfer to keep choke plates installed, but the carbs I ordered had them already removed. So I am going to eliminate choke plates for now. Is it a must to install a primer kit? I live in south texas so it is always warm weather and plus I have accel pump to richen the mixture for cold starts
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
My biggest concern is what you plan on doing if it runs away on the trailer, you'll have to run around to the carb side, yank the air box and place your hands over both carb throats. Otherwise on cold starts I guess the accelerator helps some, but I always just use the choke too. Cold, I give the acc a couple pumps and pull the choke, fires right away. Haven't even tried a cold start w/o the choke, LOL..... Maybe once, if....
I've seen posts saying a trailer runaway can also be stopped by holding throttle at WOT, but I have doubts.
I've seen posts saying a trailer runaway can also be stopped by holding throttle at WOT, but I have doubts.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Yea, I don't see WOT helping.
jammin777
Well-Known Member
when i had my 97 gsx it ran away on me twice and scared the crap out of me as i didn't know what to do! i finally pulled the choke to get it to stop. for me that is a good enough reason to keep the choke plates. that ski only had about 30 hours on it and had no issues so it can happen to anyone with carbs.
- BiRkS_
Active Member
If you have a primer system, you can pump the primer. Most of my skidoo sleds have primers and it makes cold starting in 1-2 pulls in -20 weather! Its very rare for a sled engine to runaway, but you can for sure flood it out with a primer.
As to stopping runaway without choke/primer, you could always just plug the exhaust. An engine has to breathe. Get a glove or palm of your hand over the exhaust port and it will die within a couple seconds, or at least decrease in RPM.
Why don't you swap the choke plates from your original carbs? Or for 20$ get a primer kit. (sled ones work too)
As to stopping runaway without choke/primer, you could always just plug the exhaust. An engine has to breathe. Get a glove or palm of your hand over the exhaust port and it will die within a couple seconds, or at least decrease in RPM.
Why don't you swap the choke plates from your original carbs? Or for 20$ get a primer kit. (sled ones work too)
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Hey, is your wife by chance one of those blue-haired gals I see running around town in their Lincoln Continentals and Caddie BroHam's?
Not trying to hijack but where is this fogging hole plug you referenced? I wasn't aware there was one and have even wondered if I could make one as it sure would make fogging easier.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Not ll of the airboxes have fogging holes, my 951 carb doesn't. The RFI skis do apparently, for the year I was looking at. I've considered drilling a couple holes too but decided not to b/c I use a squirt bottle with a straw and unpressurized liquid oil in it and I'm not sure I'd get it in the carb throat.
Should work with a fogging can though, we use a pump up sprayer at the marina when we're winterizing multiple boats in a day.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
I hear those 4 strokes don't need choke plates 
As far as the runaway on the trailer. I have experienced a couple of them, guess I would have to prepare to shock the shit out of myself and pull the plug wires. Maybe keep a thick insulated glove close by. But honestly I have only experienced runaway when I give it throttle while running on the trailer, havent had a runaway while idling yet. So hopefully that will b my key to preventing them. And I was actually going to move my choke plates to new carbs, the first one I went to remove, the screw broke. Failed to notice the mushroomed end on the screw. That was enough to piss me of and say screw it. Only have a couple weeks of riding weather so trying to get it back on the water asap. Should b back together today and on the water tomorrow...hopefully
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I hear those 4 strokes don't need choke plates
The injected ones don't. The really nice thing about them over 2 strokers is the fuel economy is so much better but weight is the issue for me, may as well have a small boat.
Perhaps the Spark will bridge the gap.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
A runaway runs without ignition, turn the MPEM off and it keeps running. Pull the plug wires and she keeps going (you won't get shocked if you turn off the MPEM) The engine goes into a compression ignition mode, these motors are on the edge of runaway when they're not in the water, they're high-strung high performance motors.
I make sure my, choke is working, it's the best and perhaps only way to stop one. Sure, you can cut the fuel off and it will eventually stop but after how long of running at what RPM, before or after the wrist pin bearing cages are smashed?
Remember, it's not running on the ignition during runaway, thus there's no rev limiter involved.
Ask squirrel about his encounter, he lost a motor because he didn't know the choke would stop it.
One of the first things a diesel engine mechanic learns is how to stop a diesel engine from running away.
While you're busy yanking plug wires, have someone else run around to the carb side and yank the air box and place their hands over the carb throats so they can stop the engine before it grenades. Then once it's stopped, tear it down and replace the rod bearing cages.
And yes, you have to grind the threaded end of the choke plate screw off in order to remove the screw without making a mess of the shaft. The threads are staked at the factory so the screw can't come loose and fall into the intake manifold. Use loktight on the screw, and you should consider using new screws.
Why aren't you just sticking with the plan of installing the acc pump nozzle in ur old carbs? And, you've got to make sure the pilot holes in the carb bore are totally clear of gum, else if there' not enough fuel it will have a wide mid range flat spot in the throttle and you get to experience how important (and wide) the mid range fuel circuit actually is.
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Strizzo
Well-Known Member
logically it might, since it *should* enrichen the mixture, and might cool the plugs enough to stop the runaway, or it might make it worse.
i'll let someone else try it out first, until then i'll just use the choke.
Ya. I see where you are coming from sportster, makes sense. My plan was to just swap over the accel pump nozzle but the nozzle broke on me when I tried to remove it. Didnt want to chance it on the only good carb I had left because if that one were to break I would be right back in the same boat I was before, looking for a nozzle. Its just one thing after another with this issue I am having. But hopefully I can get it all resolved by tomorrow...hopefully
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
no, when you shut off the MPEM, it would kill the injectors and fuel pump as well as the ignition. no fuel = no fire.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I know buddy, been there done all that already! Those nozzles probably weren't meant to be removed, they may be cemented in with some kind of loc-tite product so perhaps some soaking in solvent might help if you dare try removing another.
If you can grab that broken screw from the threaded end with a pair of vice grips, you might be able to get it out from the back side of the shaft, I still remember breaking off a couple of those screw heads myself, the first time I ever tried removing them and before I realized you have to grind the staked threads off first. :O
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Here's one for ya, fast forward to 2 min mark:
http://bangshift.com/blog/watch-an-...hful-helpers-panic-and-run-for-the-hills.html
http://bangshift.com/blog/watch-an-...hful-helpers-panic-and-run-for-the-hills.html
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