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Remove stripped carb screw from PO

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Went to the shop and we only had bits for concrete, going to harbor freight later to try and get a set

I see the head is rung out already and so it's an uphill battle, however......

FWIW, Concrete bits can be used for drilling hardened steels if sharpened at the right angles. Not saying it's appropriate or useful info in this case.

Consider an manual impact screwdriver, I use mine often.

Those screw heads are Japanese JIS standard you probably know, and there's a driver for that that's slightly different than #2 phillips. Regardless, you must have a good screwdriver that fits the head and preferably hardened, a junky worn out dime store soft-tipped phillips won't cut the mustard.
 
I see the head is rung out already and so it's an uphill battle, however......

FWIW, Concrete bits can be used for drilling hardened steels if sharpened at the right angles. Not saying it's appropriate or useful info in this case.

Consider an manual impact screwdriver, I use mine often.

Those screw heads are Japanese JIS standard you probably know, and there's a driver for that that's slightly different than #2 phillips. Regardless, you must have a good screwdriver that fits the head and preferably hardened, a junky worn out dime store soft-tipped phillips won't cut the mustard.

I think using the drill method is the last resort, bought a #2 JIS screwdriver from vessel on amazon and still wasn't able to crack either of them loose.
 
I’m telling you, a manual impact driver is worth it’s weight in gold... I’ve gotten screws to break loose with that thing that were just about completely rounded out.
 
I think using the drill method is the last resort, bought a #2 JIS screwdriver from vessel on amazon and still wasn't able to crack either of them loose.

I liked your idea of slotting the heads as well. Sometimes to accomplish that you have to work the cutting disk down in diameter before you can get it onto small screw heads, take it slow, be patient and wear goggles.

Also consider all this work, what if you can't revive this corroded carb, new replacements are usually available. Check engine compression before dumping too much $$ into it, boats/skis are a hole in the water to throw money into but usually worth while.
 
There's a pretty good chance you get them out once you've cut slots in the heads, IMO. It's a good strategy.

IMO, the issue for these carbs is they're aluminum, which is much more prone to corrosion than the Zinc/Zamak alloy used in most marine and for that matter, most other carbs.
 
Final Update!! Took it the mill and used the 1/4 bit and and head of the screw popped right off! Used some needle nose pliers and removed the shafts and it came out real nice.
 
Update on the final update: Lost the remainder of the shafts when I pulled them out, any chance one of you guys know the correct bolt? Preferably allen so I don't have to go through that process again.. LOL

Found a "set" on ebay for 8bucks, but rather than paying that guy to go the hardware store and ship them to me; I was wondering if I could do it myself :thumbs_up:
 
I don't know the dimensions off hand, but the Mikuni part number is C5-0414-G

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf

BTW, I wouldn't worry too much about obtaining hex head screws, it will no longer feel like the 1st time, next time but I would dunk the screws in oil before installing them and be careful not to cross thread them.


I think you mean socket head screws, there is no way hex head screws would work properly.

Chester
 
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