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Rebuilt 787 RFI Break-in

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gskinner

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Just rebuilt my 787 RFI engine in my 2000 GTX RFI.
Since this is fuel injection do I still add oil to the gas for break-in?
If not what should I do for additional lubrication?

Thanks
 
Just rebuilt my 787 RFI engine in my 2000 GTX RFI.
Since this is fuel injection do I still add oil to the gas for break-in?
If not what should I do for additional lubrication?

Thanks

Appearantly you don't premix. Check with SES and see if they have any break in instructions for that motor.
 
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Yes, you would do it the same way as you would with a carbureted engine. Just premix the gas for the first tank.

Eltoro are you sure?
I have a 787 RFI at SES getting rebuilt. I was doing some research trying to get info. about propper break in. I have read several old threads on the forum saying not to premix in RFI and DI engines as it will cause problems with the injectors. Now I am confused. I want to break my new engine in right. If I do premix for the first tank full of gas what ratio and what oil? I am guessing that I should use the XPS full synthetic that I normally fill the oil tank with.
Thanks.
 
No premixing on RFID!!!! No!!!!! Well if you want more oil maybe you can adjust oil pump to advance a little... Just a thought.. I would wait for the pros( doc Honda) to chime in;)
 
Any of the pros want to chime in? I would feel much better hearing what to do from one of the pros on the forum. If I can't premix then is there anything else I should do?
 
Not to POP anyone's bubble but the GTX RFI operators manual says to add 1 liter of oil to the first tank of the same oil in the injection tank. The break-in procedure is on page 44 of the operators manual part# 219000104 available at www.sead**manuals.net. That should answer the long awaited question. replace the ** with the oo
 
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I have the owners manual and read that page. This manual is also for the non fuel injected as well and thought maybe they overlooked any differences with the RFI. From some of the Seadoo service manuals I have used It is not uncommon for them not to have specific information on some of the models listed in the book.
Also from reading on the forum about not mixing oil in fuel injected engines I just want to be sure.
 
Agreed on the manual coverage, but it also doesn't say not to.:D Perhaps a call to the dealer will net you the correct answer. I would go either way, meaning just pre mix it or just say f' it and ride it, ya can't let it sit on the trailer forever;)

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I think your best bet is to advance the oil pump like they said. It will give you the additional oil you need without bothering the injectors.
 
I'm interested in the answer. I had to have the motor torn down on my 04 GTI LE RFI (787 RFI). Long story short is that I had to have the crank replaced. Dealer (respected for this area) that did the work said you make sure not to run at WOT for more than a few seconds and to continually vary the RPM's for the first tank of fuel. Told this also by a friend that works on ski's. Took forever to run through that 1st tank.
 
I'm not sure which there are more of... ways to break in an engine or ways to have sex.
Between my cars, dirtbikes and snowmobiles, I have never once "broken in" an engine and I have NEVER once had an issue or failure related to "no break in". At the most, I give them one heat cycle to seat the rings, but typically just let them warm up while giving them a once over then let it rip :). This is not my advice, so don't blame me if you try it and break your stuff, just my method and it has not failed me yet :D.
 
I'm not sure I'd call her a dirtbike, but if you want to grip it and rip it, I hope she makes it out okay ;)

Usually you have to get some heat into them, make sure they are ready for it... the engine that is...:leaving:
 
I'm not sure I'd call her a dirtbike, but if you want to grip it and rip it, I hope she makes it out okay ;)

Usually you have to get some heat into them, make sure they are ready for it... the engine that is...:leaving:

LMAO! I do agree though, (speaking about engines) they do need some heat in them first. That's why I try to heat cycle them once if time allows. If not, I just make sure they are good and warmed up. Never had a failure yet. Well, nothing due to improper break in, I have blown plenty of motors due to overpowering and abusing them though :D.
 
Check with SES and see if they have any break in instructions for that motor.

Sounds like the best advice in this thread so far. If they are doing the work Im sure they have a recommended precedure for it if it's important. And personally if they give you one stick to it by the letter. That way if something does happen to it they can't say you didnt do something right.
 
complete waste of money and time and anything else to put oil in tank on an rfi, your injector is on the opposite side of engine, fuel is injected on "top of the piston" and all you will do is shorten the spark plug life, probably oil foul plug, etc. .... just prime oil pump, change both 3/32 tygon lines from pump to nozzles, and have a good time ..... just make sure you found the problem why you rebuilt the motor to start with -- btw -- if you had an injector wash problem like i had on mine, fiveomotorsports sells injectors for like 58.00 a piece... take bosch number off top of injector ....



NONE of the engine break-in can be done out of the water!

Proper break-in of your engine is the most critical aspect for determining the longevity and performance of your engine. Engines not properly broken-in will often fail within the first minutes of operation. Ring failure and piston seizure are the most common symptoms of an improper break-in procedure.

During the first 10 gallons of gasoline, there should be NO full throttle operation. First idle the engine for about 10 minutes to ensure that the engine is properly warmed-up. Then begin varying the throttle position up and down, up to 20% throttle for a half hour. Then come back and let the engine cool off completely - it should be a good 30 min break. After it cools down, you may now ride it up to 50% throttle for another half hour or so. Then come back again and let it completely cool down again. Now you can go out and ride up to 90% throttle. Continue this for the remainder of the 10 gallons, never holding one throttle position for more than a few seconds. Do not run at a steady throttle position and do not go to 100% throttle. After your first tank of gas, replace your plugs with fresh ones. For the second tank, you may ride normally with one exception - do not hold it at 100% throttle for more than a few seconds. After the second tank of gas, you are completely broken in and may ride anyway you like.:thumbsup:
 
The RFI shoots fuel in the same location as the carb setup does.

The DI shoots fuel in on the top of the piston like a 4 stroke...
 
rfi injects fuel into the transfer ports between the case and combustion chamber, DI is what the name implies, injected directly into the combustion chamber. i'm assuming that is the reason for the air injection since the injection time is very limited on DI engines because due to the fact that fuel has to be injected while both intake and exhaust ports are covered. on the new 4 stroke DI engines in cars, the fueling required is done by using very high pressure fuel delivery, like 1500-3000 psi.
 
Can we just get some Brapppppppp already. In the words of Primus, Fire her up man!:thumbup:

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