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Rebuild 951 first time out but raves leaking bad.

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ricardo1

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IMG_20140504_215313.jpgFinally took the ski(gtx di) to the lake after the new SES engine and man is the ski fun to ride but too stable for me haha, now my question is the ski ran perfectly fine but I did notice that the raves are leaking there is a picture for reference, my top rpm was 6520 rpm. I noticed that it looks likes one of the spark plugs was leaking a little bit of the same black stuff that was coming out of the raves, here are both of the spark plugs( I put oil on the cylinders prior to running the engine to be on the safe side with lubrication) what do you guys think about them.
 

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Check the orings, make sure they are not hard. Check the gaskets for rips. Also check to make sure the bellows were put back in right. If all that is fine your raves may just be worn out. Also check and make sure they are tightened down correctly.
 
I'm not sure that's proper break-in (FSM style).
Are the gaskets in right?

Wrong break in?
FMS style break in?

Check the orings, make sure they are not hard. Check the gaskets for rips. Also check to make sure the bellows were put back in right. If all that is fine your raves may just be worn out. Also check and make sure they are tightened down correctly.
Bellows? The engine didn't look like it was leaking like that when I got the sky so maybe a mistake on my part/ worn out part? I got them tight just not crazy tight.
 
There obviously is something not installed correctly if it did not leak before. Just take them apart and clean them up and inspect everything. It should be a quick fix. Take the cap off and see if the rave is tight. Then push it up and down and see if the rubber bellow is attached to the plastic part. The spring may have came off. If that all looks fine unscrew the whole assembly and check your orings. It is fairly easy when taking them apart to realize where the leak origninated from.
 
It seems to be leaking exhaust at the mounting base of the RAVE? There should be an o-ring gasket in the groove of the base as a seal, I bet it's missing?

That 6250 WOT RPM is too low, something's not right. A couple possibilities:

Has someone changed your impeller from the factory one?
The RAVES my not be operating.

Some small leakage around a spark plug may mean it's not torqued properly although it's not unusual to see some very small seepage from there normally. As long as the metal spark plug gasket is installed it should be okay.
 
The orings are black and a little hard not too hard and they do not look cracked to me and it looks like I'm not missing anything here are pictures, I noticed that the blue plastic screw on top of the raves is not all the way in nor all the way out.

IMG_20140505_110707.jpgIMG_20140505_112203.jpg
 
FSM - Factory Service Manual.

if this engine is new, you shouldn't be at WOT yet, but yes it should reach almost 7K wide open, after proper break-in is followed.

I'd blame over oiling for the first tank, but this is DI, so it should not have any extra oil for break-in.

New plugs? how's the prop look? are the RAVEs opening? you can remove the spring from them to simulate them running open for a quick test.

is the throttle pulling the engine all the way open?

I thought the DI/RFI you had to have the dealer adjust the TPS after an engine swap? Throttle Position Sensor

RAVES, waterbox, plugs, could all be part of the issue, also old fuel.

What's the compression test showing?
 
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FSM - Factory Service Manual.

if this engine is new, you shouldn't be at WOT yet, but yes it should reach almost 7K wide open, after proper break-in is followed.

I'd blame over oiling for the first tank, but this is DI, so it should not have any extra oil for break-in.

New plugs? how's the prop look? are the RAVEs opening? you can remove the spring from them to simulate them running open for a quick test.

is the throttle pulling the engine all the way open?

I thought the DI/RFI you had to have the dealer adjust the TPS after an engine swap? Throttle Position Sensor

RAVES, waterbox, plugs, could all be part of the issue, also old fuel.

What's the compression test showing?

I did not add oil to the tank of gas.
Plugs are new, pro looks good and has a new wear ring, I hope they are but not sure I can test that next time I make the lake.
I was going to check that later today since I had to come work already.
I didn't remove the tps of the tbs.
It did a little old fuel I used fuel marine stabilizer but rest of the tank has couple day old 93 oct.
Compression before break in was 130 and 140 not sure what it is now.
 
Ricardo - Put the water box on your list of things to check that might cause limited RPM, the reason is this valve restricts water flow into the expansion pipe during high throttle like WOT and you will lose RPM if there's too much water being injected into the expansion pipe during WOT. There's a small pintle that moves up and down inside this valve based on the pressure in the water box and the rubber bellows inside the plastic cover should not leak water into the bilge. You can unscrew it from the water box and see if the pintle moves freely or if some sand/debris is jammed inside causing too much water injection to the expansion pipe.

First, I think you should repair the RAVE base o-ring leak, my o-rings are original and they are fairly soft, they don't leak like that, I put about 70in-lbs torque(my estimate) on the mounting screws, not a crazy amount of torque. The o-rings make the seal. I don't think this leak is causing limited RPM but it's hard to know for sure, just about any exhaust leak will fill the bilge with carbon monoxide and cause problems b/c the carbon monoxide displaces air and the engine needs air, carbon monoxide in the bilge pushes combustion air out of the bilge. I think you get the idea.

I guess you didn't over rev the engine b/c you only reached 6250, LOL, maybe you didn't hold throttle WOT long enough to reach top speed (7000 RPM)?

Anyway, I agree, avoid WOT but the engine has to be tested to confirm nothing's wrong that might cause damage.... A chicken or egg thing.

Also check and make sure those throttles are opening completely, this will limit top RPM I think you know. Maybe the throttle cable needs to be adjusted. For adjusting, I pull the throttle to WOT while adjusting full tension on the cable, maybe you know what I mean.

You did good on oiling the motor and not oiling the fuel, it's fuel-injected so you can't oil the fuel. I think you know this too, that's why you didn't.

Check those RAVES carefully, make sure the air tubing is connected and the pneumatic valves can hold air pressure. If the RAVES aren't opening, the RPM's will be limited (I think you already know this too).

For the TPS, maybe the service guy who has the VCK/code reader will reset them for you, we forgot to ask him... I kinda think this isn't the problem right now but it's possible maybe.

I think most likely the RAVES aren't actuating or the waterbox valve isn't moving the pintle, or the throttle cable needs minor adjustment to open the throttle body butterfly plates completely. Checking the throttle cable adjustment is the easiest thing to do first.

And you need to fix any exhaust leaks you can find, those are no bueno.

Nice work, so far so good!
 
"Compression before break in was 130 and 140 not sure what it is now."

That seems pretty good, probably now they are even closer to the same. I expect as the engine is breaking in, the ring seal will stabilize to normal levels. Eventually they should settle to within a couple of psi difference or better.

I'm glad you checked this again.
 
I relubed the orings and intalled them again, I think I found what i did wrong, since i got the grommets for the oil tank I changed them both and checked compression just for the heck of it and got 140-90 wtf?
 
how does it run? 140 and 90 is a problem if the numbers are accurate...

this is a DI correct? which has a special method to checking the compression, because you have to shut off the fuel injectors...?
 
Maybe your compression gauge hose is leaking at the plug hole or gauge head?

The Pto side had some black fluid coming out of the hole but the spark plug was in there, I did notice that i have to play with the spark plug to get in properly.

how does it run? 140 and 90 is a problem if the numbers are accurate...

this is a DI correct? which has a special method to checking the compression, because you have to shut off the fuel injectors...?

I runs perfectly fine to be honest no hesitation at all.
Yes its a Di and was holding throttle wide open with the wires grounded.
 
Yes its a Di and was holding throttle wide open with the wires grounded.

If anything, fuel under compression will tend to cause a highish compression reading I expect, not a low 90psi. A small leak somewhere or poor ring seal are possible root causes. But you measured a normal reading once, so it seems like a possible leak?

Perhaps the cylinder head spark plug hole threads might be slightly damaged and allowing a small leak at the tester hose connection during the compression check?

You might try some liquid soap there to pinpoint a compression leak.
 
The pto side spark plug doesn't slide in just like the mag side so maybe the previous owner messed the thread up a little before me? The leak from the top of the spark plug hole was small but I could see some black oil dripping from inside but if you look at the first picture where you see the dirt from the raves you can see I put the spark plug ground under the rave mount and not on top of it then the screw( what was I thiking?
 
If anything, fuel under compression will tend to cause a highish compression reading I expect, not a low 90psi. A small leak somewhere or poor ring seal are possible root causes. But you measured a normal reading once, so it seems like a possible leak?

Perhaps the cylinder head spark plug hole threads might be slightly damaged and allowing a small leak at the tester hose connection during the compression check?

You might try some liquid soap there to pinpoint a compression leak.

Got the leak fixed took the ski out for 2 hrs and used more then half tank of gas is this normal? hahaha
Rpms didn't reach the 6800-7000 like it should maybe it has to do with my rave valves adjustment?
 
Do the rave lifters hold air pressure or do they leak?

The RAVES are either on or off, controlled by the MPEM sending air pressure from the air pump through the RAVE solenoid to the RAVES. If the plastic adjuster is turned fully in then it might be possible they don't open but the adjustment is not supposed to have a noticeable effect. Try turning the adjusters flush, I doubt there's any difference but it's free to try.

Check color of your spark plugs, if they are black with soot, you may have leaky fuel injectors.

Confirm throttle body butterflies are fully open at WOT.

Wrong impeller will slow engine.

Confirm air pressure is correct.

There isn't much else I can think of.
 
Do the rave lifters hold air pressure or do they leak?

The RAVES are either on or off, controlled by the MPEM sending air pressure from the air pump through the RAVE solenoid to the RAVES. If the plastic adjuster is turned fully in then it might be possible they don't open but the adjustment is not supposed to have a noticeable effect. Try turning the adjusters flush, I doubt there's any difference but it's free to try.

Check color of your spark plugs, if they are black with soot, you may have leaky fuel injectors.

Confirm throttle body butterflies are fully open at WOT.

Wrong impeller will slow engine.

Confirm air pressure is correct.

There isn't much else I can think of.

Took her out today and I'm getting 49 mps on the dash and 49 on the phone gps, the butterflies are opening all the way, occasionally it will would drop rpm for a sec like bad gas or somenthing. Here are some pictures of my girl and myself riding.
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