SurfBeat
Active Member
Here comes another colloquy about the use of a non Bombadier manufactured oil in a Rotax engine, (the engine used in Sea Doos) and the reasons not to use TCW3 oils.
I am a teacher and a law school grad, (and an old fart) so, I know how to conduct research.
After my research it became clear that a Rotax engine, whether a 1990 or a 2010 cannot use TCW3 oils because of the design of the Rotax engine, i.e., the rotary valve which Kawi's and Yami's don't have. Had I known that fact before I bought my Doo in 93, I would have bought a Kawi and saved a lot of time researching the difference between TCW3 and API TC oils.
If you check the threads on this subject and do your own research if you don't believe them, you will find that SeaDooSnipe, the good Dr. Horton and SeaDoYa's opinions about this subject are right on.
Now, I'm going to add some facts that SDS, DH and SDY did not mention in their threads about this subject.
First, if you own a 587 or 687 engine, (possibly any 2-stroke SD) Quicksilver PWC Oil (QSPWCO)(Silver container) is the way to go because it is a blend of synthetic and mineral oils. (30% synthetic/70% mineral)
You may ask, why is that important?
The answer is easy; two stroke engines, in contrast to four stroke engines need mineral oil to protect against corrosion when the Doo is stored or not being operated. 100% synthetic oils do not provide that protection because the oil is 100% synthetic. (Do a search on Rotax engines if you don't believe me)
On that thought, QSPWCO, in contrast to full synthetic Quicksilver PWC oil, (or any other full synthetic oil) protects the engine when not in use.
Quicksilver manufactures another oil that is rated both TCW3 and API TC, QUicksilver Premium (not Premium Plus which is only a TCW3 oil).
Unfortunately, Premium is not Low Ash, it is Ashless, thus, does not have the proper lubricants to protect the rotary valve. (Ash is an additive (part metal and other addatives to the oil)
I'v read stories about Dooer's using Wal Mart Tech Marine Oil which is an Ash Less TCW3 oil. I once thought about using it because it is only 12 bucks in contrast to thirty bucks for Quicksilver.
I decided to use Vavoline TCW3 oil for the last couple years because someone told me that such was the oil Sea Doo recommended in 1990/1991and my engine was a 587cc, the same as a 90/91, though my engine is white and the 90/91 is yellow.
This came into focus at the end of last summer when my crank froze and upon removing it from my engine I noticed that the bearings had signs of overheating, (blue/green color). The rotary valve, however, looked fine. (That was strange considering the views that API TC oils in contrast to TCW3 oils are the reason API TC Oils are required)
The bearings in my Doo did not cause the crank to freeze, it was a maunfuacturing defect on the crank itself.
I missed a trip to the River last week with some boyz from this site because I had to tear my engine apart (I am no mechanic).
I am not rich, but after looking at my bearings and reading a ton of literature about the pros and cons about API TC and TCW3 Oils I've decided that I'm going to spend the extra $13 per gallon ($5.00 cheaper than XTS oil) on Quicksilver PWC synthetic blend and hopefully get another 15 years on my Doo's.
If you are like me, don't trust what I say. Do some research both on and off off this site. When off this site focus on Rotax engines, Ash and Ash less oils, API TC and TCW3 Oils.
Although I've only found one person to say he has used TCW3 oils with great success and have yet to find anyone say they know from experience that the use of TCW3 Oils caused an engien problem, just follow the recommendations set forth in your Operators Guide.
I think Dr. Horton said it best: If you are driving an old Chevy, would you use diesel fuel in lieu of regular gasoline!
If you are reading this and you ahve the time, add to the research.
I still drive the 56 Chevy Nomad that my folks gave me in 63 when I graduated from high school, so, I tend to like the old. It is easier to repair and less things to go wrong, conditioned, however, that I follow the advice that is offerd for free on this site.
I am a teacher and a law school grad, (and an old fart) so, I know how to conduct research.
After my research it became clear that a Rotax engine, whether a 1990 or a 2010 cannot use TCW3 oils because of the design of the Rotax engine, i.e., the rotary valve which Kawi's and Yami's don't have. Had I known that fact before I bought my Doo in 93, I would have bought a Kawi and saved a lot of time researching the difference between TCW3 and API TC oils.
If you check the threads on this subject and do your own research if you don't believe them, you will find that SeaDooSnipe, the good Dr. Horton and SeaDoYa's opinions about this subject are right on.
Now, I'm going to add some facts that SDS, DH and SDY did not mention in their threads about this subject.
First, if you own a 587 or 687 engine, (possibly any 2-stroke SD) Quicksilver PWC Oil (QSPWCO)(Silver container) is the way to go because it is a blend of synthetic and mineral oils. (30% synthetic/70% mineral)
You may ask, why is that important?
The answer is easy; two stroke engines, in contrast to four stroke engines need mineral oil to protect against corrosion when the Doo is stored or not being operated. 100% synthetic oils do not provide that protection because the oil is 100% synthetic. (Do a search on Rotax engines if you don't believe me)
On that thought, QSPWCO, in contrast to full synthetic Quicksilver PWC oil, (or any other full synthetic oil) protects the engine when not in use.
Quicksilver manufactures another oil that is rated both TCW3 and API TC, QUicksilver Premium (not Premium Plus which is only a TCW3 oil).
Unfortunately, Premium is not Low Ash, it is Ashless, thus, does not have the proper lubricants to protect the rotary valve. (Ash is an additive (part metal and other addatives to the oil)
I'v read stories about Dooer's using Wal Mart Tech Marine Oil which is an Ash Less TCW3 oil. I once thought about using it because it is only 12 bucks in contrast to thirty bucks for Quicksilver.
I decided to use Vavoline TCW3 oil for the last couple years because someone told me that such was the oil Sea Doo recommended in 1990/1991and my engine was a 587cc, the same as a 90/91, though my engine is white and the 90/91 is yellow.
This came into focus at the end of last summer when my crank froze and upon removing it from my engine I noticed that the bearings had signs of overheating, (blue/green color). The rotary valve, however, looked fine. (That was strange considering the views that API TC oils in contrast to TCW3 oils are the reason API TC Oils are required)
The bearings in my Doo did not cause the crank to freeze, it was a maunfuacturing defect on the crank itself.
I missed a trip to the River last week with some boyz from this site because I had to tear my engine apart (I am no mechanic).
I am not rich, but after looking at my bearings and reading a ton of literature about the pros and cons about API TC and TCW3 Oils I've decided that I'm going to spend the extra $13 per gallon ($5.00 cheaper than XTS oil) on Quicksilver PWC synthetic blend and hopefully get another 15 years on my Doo's.
If you are like me, don't trust what I say. Do some research both on and off off this site. When off this site focus on Rotax engines, Ash and Ash less oils, API TC and TCW3 Oils.
Although I've only found one person to say he has used TCW3 oils with great success and have yet to find anyone say they know from experience that the use of TCW3 Oils caused an engien problem, just follow the recommendations set forth in your Operators Guide.
I think Dr. Horton said it best: If you are driving an old Chevy, would you use diesel fuel in lieu of regular gasoline!
If you are reading this and you ahve the time, add to the research.
I still drive the 56 Chevy Nomad that my folks gave me in 63 when I graduated from high school, so, I tend to like the old. It is easier to repair and less things to go wrong, conditioned, however, that I follow the advice that is offerd for free on this site.
