Question about pump cross-compatibility

[Apeman]

Pulled the pump on the non-running 98 GTX that I recently bought. Three fairly large rocks fell out of the venturi when I pulled it off, which explains the previous owners statement that it would not turn over. The Impeller is chewed pretty bad, but the pump vanes (plastic curved fins, just after the impeller output) are also beat up very badly. 5 of the 6 vanes have large chunks missing. I get the feeling the a new, or decent used pump would be a good idea. Here's the question:
Can the previous year's bronze pump housing be used in this 98 GTX RFI? I read that the bronze pump is a tougher animal. Or do I need to stay with the plastic housing?
The shaft was deflected about .028 and had a bunch of small dings from rocks. Got it within .007 on the Lathe, and smoothed out the dings.

One more question actually:
The 787RFI engine has been sitting 2+ years, and the bottom end has filled with oil/gas. How hard will it be to get at the drain plugs to empty the bottom end?
I plan to put a ball valve on the bottom oil line, and am hoping to avoid a total rebuild if I can.
Or, since the pump and shaft are already out, should I bite the bullet and just yank the engine and get the rebuild done before the good weather gets here?
All advice is welcome!
-az-

 

[ski-d00]

The small chunks missing from the vanes doesn't normally affect it much. I would probably just reman your impeller and get a new wear ring and I'll bet it works like new. Bronze pumps are tougher but not really needed unless you plan on riding in rocks. Pretty much all 140mm pumps with the newer style 97+ hose lines will work but the GTX LTD with the 951 uses a completely different sized pump, the 155mm.

I wouldn't pull a motor until I know the condition of it. No drain plug on the bottom of the cases. If you crank it with the plugs out for 20 seconds at a time, all the oil should come out. When it cranks cleanly without spewing oil out the plug holes put gas in the plug holes to try to start, if it doesn't fire, take plugs out and crank over again, more oil may come out, repeat this until it runs. may take 5-10 iterations.

 

[Apeman]

Good info! Thank you.
Did the crank, cleanup, crank, repeat last night. Oil coughing slowed, but never stopped completely. Attempted to start, and it actually idles very rough a few times, but only for 2-3 seconds. Like one cyl is missing. Then the starter wouldn't turn the engine over. Have two spare, brand new batteries and played musical batteries, but that starter seems to be very weak. I think the previous owner may have burnt some armature fields when the impeller still had rocks in it. Pulling one plug, cranking for a bit, and reinstalling the plug gets it turning over normally for a while. Compression test showed around 160 or better.

Got the new impeller and wear ring on order.
This GTX RFI is going to be an adventure to bring back to top form.
Good thing I have a running GT to play with.
Thanks again,
-az-

 

[ski-d00]

The RFI does idle on 1 cyl(bad design imo), you're going to need to rev it up by feathering the throttle until it takes off at higher rpms. Stick with it, you'll get it but does take a strong battery for all the cranking required. Will probably spew out a huge black oil puddle out the exhaust when it does rev up as well so have rags ready.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

If (its been stubborn) I can ever get the pump off the 98 RFI I bought over the weekend, I planned on selling it, PM me if your interested. I was about to use a truck winch to yank it off (i'm really pissed at it) then tonka told me not to break it since those pumps have some value.

 

[Waterluvr]

Spim go visit the local auto parts store that rents tools on the cheap, ya know like free if you bring it back cheap. Anything along the lines of a Grant automotive style hub adapter will fit and apply even pulling force to the pump and a slide hammer attached to the center of the adapter will pop those right off without damaging anything.