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Pulling my 787 out

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VaDeerHunter

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I read the instructions for pulling the motor out of my 96 XP but.....I need to find long hex wrenches to get to the two bolts that hold the exhaust to the engine under the head. If anyone knows where to get long hex wrenches that would be a help. Also, should I separate the two sections of the exhaust at the big clamp or can I just rotate it out once I have the two lower bolts out as one piece?

Object of this exercise is to replace the Rotary shaft assembly and clean the lower part of the engine out of what is left of the brass gear. I will also inspect the crank and seals for wear. Compression is is 152 in each cylinder so I think the heads and pistons are okay.

Any advise appreciated!

Thanks,

Pat
 
You can buy the long hex sockets at Harbor Freight. Wanna say I bought mine for like 15 bucks and they are great, make sure u get metric ones
 
CReynoldsMIZ said:
You can buy the long hex sockets at Harbor Freight. Wanna say I bought mine for like 15 bucks and they are great, make sure u get metric ones
Click to expand...

yep 15 buck is right and they also have the ball end ones allowing to tilt the bit in case more clearance is needed for $15
 
Hey thanks, was able to get a socket end from Sears but will probably invest in the harbor freight ones just for the reasons stated. I have the exhaust loose but should I split the pipe at the joint where the big clamp is or can I get it out in piece?

Thanks guys!

Pat
 
On my gsx, I know it is a different ski, but I did remove the exhaust. Left the manifold on though. I don't think that removing it at the clamp would give you enough room.
 
If you're pulling the motor out in order to tear it down or replace it, then it seems like the the exhaust would need to come off anyway? I dunno if you can get the entire pipe out in one piece, but that's what I'd try to do it I thought I could, especially if I thought I could get it back in by leaving it in one piece.

I try not to disassemble stuff that doesn't have to be disassembled like exhaust, especially if it makes it easier to pressure check the assembly on the bench. I do see a lot of cracked sterndrive manifolds from freezing, and plugged ones as well, from sand/mud/corrosion, so often something has to be done to them (sterndrive mercruisers), I take them apart and make sure they're clear, most motor replacements are due to freeze cracking though and so manifolds are usually one of the casualties besides just the block.

Wonder how your welded "freeze plugs" are, I'm not sure which are the ones known for corroding.....???
 
on my gsx rfi i pulled the whole exhaust pipe out which is one piece but had to remove the air box and throttle body to do it but with the exhaust manifold still in place.
 
I wouldnt use the ball allen wrenches to break those exhaust bolts loose, more of a chance of stripping them
 
I think I will wait until its on the bench and heat the bolts up with a torch. I have two out and two to go. Man they are in there!

Pat
 
Looks like I will not have to pull the exhaust manifold after all. I got the rotary shaft aka intake off and am waiting for the tool to pull the shaft. I am hoping it is just worn down or the bearing is bad. I really don't want to pull the crankcase apart, but if its lost a tooth, that will be the only option. More to come.

Pat
 
Okay after 8 out of 9 weeks on travel I finally got the engine out, and the rotary shaft pulled. It is damaged. the teeth are worn but the real problem is there are 4 teeth that appear to be broken on the carb side. The spring is good and the bearing seems okay but I am no expert, when I compare the old and the new they are both straight and the only thing that is slightly different is there is some play, very little in the old units bearing. Other than that the teeth being chipped is the only thing. The crank gear looks good and the crank shaft turns freely with no binding at all and zero play. So I must assume there are some pieces of the old gear in the crank case. I assume there is no way to clean them out other than splitting the block.

That brings me to that process. Is it possible to split it without removing the fly wheel etc? Also I am considering changing it to premix to avoid this happening again. Is there a sticky for that?

Help appreciated!

Pat
 
I don't believe premixing will help with this type failure. The oil injection is extremely reliable if maintained. You will burn twice as much oil, and go through plugs faster. The injection is variable rate, at idle I believe it's around 70:1.
 
I vote for injection too, just make sure it's adjusted properly and in good working condition, like the oil lines, for instance. RV cavity needs it's oil bath anyway and it'll save on operation costs.
 
VaDeerHunter said:
Is it possible to split it without removing the fly wheel etc?
Pat
Click to expand...



You MUST remove the flywheel to get access to clean out the base.

Because the flywheel is covering some of the bolts needed to split the case.

You need to remove the flywheel.
Then drain the counter balance oil while you have the engine sitting upright.
and then tip it around to get all the oil out of the center cavity.
and then remove the bolts and the mag casing from the block (probably need the gasket as well) (expect some oil to come out of the bottom right bolt)
Then you can flip the engine on its head and start removing the base bolts and finally split the crank case and get it cleaned.
 
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