Please, 96 Challenger oil, HELP

[2qwk]

OK, So I go to my local Seadoo dealer today to buy oil for the first time for my 96 Challenger. First I ask the guy for the scupper valve flaps because they are worn out. He tells me without looking at anything, that "they probably dont make that part anymore", That is crazy, I have seen this part already online, I thought I would get it from you guys so I don't have to wait I told him. He told me to buy it online.

So I forget about that, I figure I will buy it online and I can deal with a little puddle in the back of the boat for one weekend.

Now for the oil. The previous owner told me that he ran Mobil 1 full synthetic 2-stroke oil. I personaly have never heard of Mobil 1 2-stroke oil. I tell the man at the dealer what the PO told me was in it. He tells me that the oil is $30 for non syn. $40 for the blend and $50 for full syn a gallon. I ask which one should I use and he tells me that in 96 they did not use synthetic oil so I should run it low and fill it with the non synthetic. So I buy a gallon for $30, bring it home, go to put it in and there is a sticker that says use SYNTHETIC OIL ONLY.

PLEASE TELL ME , what oil should I use, both good for the boat and my wallet? Who knows for sure what the PO really used in there, he was kind of an idiot.


Randy

 

[Cid6.7]

Same answer I got yesterday about the Scupper Valve guess most of everything for these boats are discontinued =\
As for the oil I would call the PO & ask to see if he remembers what oil he used..If you search you'll find out what mixing oil could do to your engine..Im goin thru kinda the same situation but IM the idiot..lol I put wrong oil in.. D'oh

 

[kustomkarl]

Randy, That seadoo should have either synthetic or synthetic blend in it. I would go with the blend as it is cheaper and shouldn't cause any problems. You also said the Previous Owner used synthetic. Here is what is suggested by seadoo.

Recommended oil and fuel use.​

Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.

Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.
As far as parts, if the dealer wasn't in business back in 1996 then I doubt the dealer would have such a part. Try West Marine, if no luck locally, or the internet. A lot of parts older than say 10 years become obsolete...as is the seadoo that age. Lots of parts around, but no more 2 strokes. It's the end of a era. Everything now is a 4-tec( 4 stroke)...SuperCharged at that.

Karl

 

[2qwk]

As far as the PO, I have no way of contacting him now. I did ask him what oil he used and he told me Mobil 1 full synthetic 2-stroke oil. Which I looked for and from my research I found that Mobil 1 doesnt even make a 2-stroke oil. So I geuss my plan is to bring back the non synthetic and get the full synthetic, carry it with me and when the oil is as low as I can get it, fill it with the new seadoo full synthetic. As far as the scupper valve, I have been looking and I think they changed it to a new style, so I will have to change the whole threw hull scupper valve, not just the end piece with the rubber flaps. $45 for the new setup plus a $8 gasket, not to bad I geuss.

The PO was a young goofy kid, who knows what oil he had in it if he is lieing to me about the Mobil 1, I am really just scared of mixing the wrong two oils I geuss. I am starting to think that I should evacuate all the oil that is in the tank now and start fresh..............


Randy

 

[kustomkarl]

Try the scupper at west Marine.I have seen members here say it just fits in place of the old unit... for about the same price.

Here is some information on the oil change in the pump and lines.
Here is some food for thought...
Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;

After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. To drain the oil from the Rotary Valve Chamber, use a oil extractor pump to suck the oil out of the hose…it’s the one that is 3/8” diameter. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose.
For the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft, attach the hose on the tank and allow the oil to fill the hose and attach it to the case. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.

Karl

__________________

 

[Cid6.7]

2qwk check ebay for that scupper valve prolly your best bet...I found one of the newer models that'll bolt right in place :cheers:

 

[2qwk]

2qwk check ebay for that scupper valve prolly your best bet...I found one of the newer models that'll bolt right in place :cheers:

Found it on Ebay, I didn't know it was a perko product. They have it right at west marine. I will just go get it tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help guys, 2 minute response to my question, you guys are the best.



Randy

 

[97ChallengerGuy]

oil

http://www.maximausa.com/products/2stroke/marinepro.asp

I was told by a competing dealer from where I bought my 97 Challenger the this is completely acceptable oil to run.

 

[kustomkarl]

Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil.

Again this is just what seadoo recommends.... They only designed and tested their engines to not come apart.

Karl

 

[2qwk]

I bought the full synthetic seadoo oil for $50.00 a gallon, If it is the best for the boat I dont mind spending the money. Besides, I have noticed the engine really doesn't use much.


Randy

 

[kustomkarl]

I only use seadoo oil in my seadoo's...but that's me. Some other members use all kinds of oil as long as it's in spec is what matters. I feel the same way I use very little oil in my seadoos for peace of mind over saving $20.00a year...I run mine year round,living in Florida.

Karl