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Performance Boost Chip for Seadoo Utopia - thoughts?

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I'm looking at this performance chip (info below) for my Utopia 205 boat, wondering if anyone has tried it. It costs $65. thoughts/comments welcome, thanks. Note the info below is from the seller, not me...

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D-BOOST PERFORMANCE CHIP SEA-DOO UTOPIA
ADJUSTABLE PERFORMANCE CONTROL* TUNE UP YOUR EFI JET

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D-BO...20390808958QQptZPersonalQ5fWatercraftQ5fParts

Dyno-BOOST is a fully adjustable performance fuel controller designed for fuel injected PWC's. It tricks signals being read by the ECU, resulting an adjustment to the fuel curve, which is what causes the increase in HP, as well as improves acceleration and throttle response within the entire RPM range, simply wires inline with factory IAT (Intake Air Temperature) or MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and plugs into the O2 sensor harness on models having it. Crisp acceleration, much more horsepower and torque, lower quarter mile times and fine throttle response. Installation is easy, no special tools or expertise required. Gain +15-35 additional HP, and extremely dynamic acceleration by up to 30 %. This mod will not affect engine reliability or endurance. Dyno-BOOST tricks the ECU thinking the intake air much more cooler, then the ECU will send more fuel for a richer mix besides if the current vehicle has oxygen sensor it blocks restrictions generated by the ECU.

These vehicle specific chips are sorted into several categories according to relevant sensors' operating ranges. If you don't find your fuel injected application please contact us.

Dyno-Boost is not available to carb models.

FEATURES OF MAGNUM Dyno-BOOST PERFORMANCE CONTROL CHIP MODULE:

* Improves engine output by up to 15 % per adjustment.
* Enhances Nm, throttle response, acceleration and torque in the full RPM range.
* Performance level setting from 0 - 100 %.
* You can set the preferred higher air/fuel ratio than the stoichiometric fuel mix.
* Unit can be switched, breaking +12 V feeding voltage. (switch not included)
* INTEGRATED O2 - OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL CONTROL to avoid undesired restriction of ECU (by models fitted with oxygen sensor only)
* Peak up acceleration and dynamism by up to 30 %.
* Results higher top end speed.
* Long duration - 10-year warranty.
* Easy universal 20-minute installation.
* Immediate effect, switchable on the ride
* Reduces flat spots and diminish delay time when rev up.
* It does not affect engine endurance or reliability.
* Bright red light design

WORKING THEORY
Dyno-BOOST will supply modified signals to your Jet's ECU. The ECU then adjusts air/fuel ratio and secondarily timing advance curves to new performance settings, in addition this MAGNUM upgrade does have an absolutely outstanding O2 sensor control circuit integrated into the unit for those editions having oxygen sensor.
This control panel helps to block undesired restriction generated by the ECU.

It tricks the ECU thinking the intake air much more cooler, then the ECU will send more fuel for a richer mix besides if the current vehicle has oxygen sensor it tricks its signal to avoid ECU safe mode and low performance.

Why should ECU limit the mixture's air fuel ratio?

The answer is simple, ECU is calculating the air/fuel ratio also per all sensors' signal, and the last and most important respected control step is the oxygen content in the exhaust gas. If O2 sensor delivers fuel rich signal to the ECU, HP-gain will be limited.
Our evaluation does not let the Oxygen Sensor delivering fuel rich signal accordingly ECU will allow the advanced injection.

There is no risk of any damage to the engine or electrical parts since the modified sensor signal will always remain within the manufacturer's recommended specifications. The unit works in conjunction with your Jet Ski's ECU and will not affect engine reliability at all. This worldwide unique Performance Chip Module can even quickly be switched, removed or re-installed at any time.

Comparison

Dyno-BOOST is a strictly engineered unit, outperforms other mods. OUR TECH TEAM PROVIDES FULL 7-DAY TECHNICAL SUPPORT.
 
Could be snake oil. BUT...they do use these in trucks and cars with some positive results. Usually not as good a result as advertised, but you can usually pick up a little power or fuel economy.

I was looking into one for my Hemi Dodge for around $350. Asked a guy on another forum and he said instead of 3-5 mpg improvement, he got nearly 2. So, a little improvement, maybe worth the money spent, but not what he was expecting from the advertisement.

Sorry, no help on the jet-boat specific chip, but just wanted to throw that out there before you get all amped up and buy it.
 
:agree: I agree with the automotive applications, but those are complex mapping units that take over control and modify such things as injector pulse width timing and duration, as well as ignition timing. After reading the web site on these things and looking at their wiring diagram all this thing is, is a variable resistor you add inline between the ECM and intake air temperature sensor that tells the ECM that the outside air temperature is colder than it really is.

At most it may make the boat run a bit rich. You could accomplish the same thing just by unplugging the intake air temperature sensor any time the ambient temp is above about 70f or 20c.

Aaron
 
I admit that I didn't do ANY research into this chip, and stated that I know nothing about the jet-boat specific model. And stated that the auto equivalents are less than spectacular (but possibly DO present with some positive results).

So, yes, I agree that it may be snaky and oily in taste and texture.

But, hell, for $65 bucks, I say that we buy one and give it a shot before we nuke the idea...

Of course, I don't have an extra $65 bucks in this poor economy, so I am banking on the fact that YOU do!:cheers:
 
I notice this chip producer offers 7 days of tech support. Do they also offer 7 days of money back guarantee if you don't see any improvement?
 
I'm way too cheap to shell out 65 bucks on mystery elixir, plus that would be about 150 Canuck dollars by the time it got to the door.

Also the lakes around here will have a hard water problem for a while yet.

We need somebody else to be a Guinea pig.



Aaron:cheers:
 
Thought and suggestions:

Before you become a guinea pig--

1) do before speed and performance measurements with GPS, and lets get top speed, as well as time to top speed.

2) run full speed for a specified amount of time and then measure exactly how much fuel was consumed. Not sure the easiest way to do it. I might try to put in one qt of fuel, and run full blast until it dies, then measure the time it took.

3) after putting in the chip, run both tests again and report on any differences found.

Don't forget, YOU VOLUNTEERED to be the guinea pig :reddevil:
 
Thanks for the reply - though I'm not quite committing to be the guinea pig just yet.

I have already tested my boat's top speed via GPS which is around 48.4 mph.

On fuel consumption, that's a little harder. I do measure it overall when I fill up each time, and use the GPS to track my distance, and I'm ashamed to say it is only approximately 2.1 mpg on average.

The one idea I like about this chip (versus another one that is on ebay for half the price) is that you can put in a power switch on the dashboard to turn the chip on and off whenever I want.

With that said, I doubt this mod would turn my 240 EFI into a twin rotax 310 or 430. However if it does get the top end over 50mph, and a bit more power for accelerating and in sharp turns, that could be worth the $65...

So have I convinced anyone else to give it a try first... ;)
 
double post....

This is a double post but has merit to be in both categories, the PWC and boat sections........

I answered this in the PWC category but am putting in a copy and paste of my post there, here............:cheers:

I'm not to sure about this. It sounds like it could be a gimmick. Anything purchased on the internet has a probably of not truely working according to specs.

Why I question it. Imagine on a lawn mower, when you first start it. You have to pull the choke. When you do this, your changing the fuel/air ratio because the engine and inlet air for combustion are cold. Once the engine warms, you'll have to start pushing the choke in to lean out the fuel. Now, if you pull this choke to that original setting you used for starting when it's know hot, the engine will idle rough. and sometimes, die out.

The Merc's M-2, 210 hp engine uses a feature called "turn key enrichment" which does this same thing the chip says it does. But, it changes the fuel mixture as the engine heats up and to the air intake by the sensor.

The temperature of your air flow to the engine does matter. As you know, it's harder to build a fire outdoors in the winter than it is in the summer. But once the fire is hot, anything will burn.

Rotax has these engines set up for max performance and efficiently. I know you can mod them correctly, changing several component parts to meet the requirements of each other (like if you change the flame arrestor, you have to rejet the carbs) but to say that one change, enriching the fuel, will add 35+ horsepower................I have some doubts that it could be so easy
 
Coming from someone who uses a laptop to reprogram the PCM in their late model supercharged / intercooled car:

I would agree with the snake-oil comments on this one.

In theory, an engineer would design the PCM to perform well.

That mod appears to be scaling or changing the PCM's perceived operational values.

This could cause a reduction in performance, or even possible engine damage regardless of claims.

On the flip side, there is room for improvement here too.

For example, if the PCM is monitoring the AIT to add or subtract ignition timing, cooler air would allow for more advance.

Tricking the PCM into thinking the air is cooler, could result in an increase in ignition timing (depending on how the factory tables look) Assuming tricking the PCM into thinking the air was cooler, did indeed boost the ignition timing, your either going to get a knocking motor, or *maybe* a small boost in power.

When I re-programmed my car, I actually removed the IAT and reprogrammed the table to 1,2,3,4,5,6,7, etc instead of 00000000111122221110000...

With the table consecutive, a variable resistor (pot) allows you to dial up or town the diming.

The car however had knock sensors to keep things in check, not sure about the OptiMax?

I'm a new owner and haven't even had the chance to go through a gas tank yet.

-A
 
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