Patching Hull question...

[jammin777]

No prob, we will gladly help you the best we can!




I am having pretty good results with 400,600,1000,1500 (all wet) then a few stages of buffing. Rubbing compound, Medium Cut, Fine Cut, and I am about to use swirl remover.

The main point to remember is not to go any rougher than you really need to to remove the material you need to remove. In my case I was sanding down orange peel left over from my spray job. I first tried 1000, it was tons of work, so I switched to 600 (still a lot of work) and then finally lowered to 400 (cut the peel very quickly). You can always start high and go lower but never the other way around when trying to determine what grit to use.

great! i cant wait to see the finished product! im sure it will look great!

 

[Krispy]

great! i cant wait to see the finished product! im sure it will look great!

Yep! My goal is to finish the buffing and waxing tonight if the weather holds out.

Then flip it back over tomorrow and start reassembly.
[MENTION=69993]prd[/MENTION] keep us updated as you repair and make material decisions, there is more than one way to accomplish the end goal, we are just sharing our data points.


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[prd]

Well, I've bought the repair kit that was mentionned here at gelcoat.ca... tonight I'll go grab some sandpaper, and acetone. From there, we'll see how everything works out. I simply don't have any buffer or electric sander, so I'll debating if I should buy those also or not.

 

[Krispy]

Well, I've bought the repair kit that was mentionned here at gelcoat.ca... tonight I'll go grab some sandpaper, and acetone. From there, we'll see how everything works out. I simply don't have any buffer or electric sander, so I'll debating if I should buy those also or not.

Do you have an electric drill?

The buffing is really made easier with a power tool.

I think the sanding can be done by hand for a small area. I was doing the whole lower half of the hull!

Check out this thread on buffing, I used it as a guideline.

 

[prd]

Thanks Krispy. That thread was a great read and very useful information.

 

[prd]

Hey guys,

I was just wondering would it be a good thing to add in a couple of fiberglass layer rather than just gelcoat? I want it to last long.

 

[jammin777]

if the scratch is only gel coat deep then just use the gel coat patch as it is very durable, just make sure you prep the area really good as per videos on you tube.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Unless you have a hole or a crack through the hull there is no need for fiberglass. Fiberglass in a woven mat and gets its strength from the resin. If you put fiberglass patches on the outside of the hull you will have a very hard time sanding it down smooth. Now if there is a hole, then on the inside you can patch the hull. All you do is get a sheet of heavy fiberglass mat. Cut a peice that is about 3 times the size of the hole/crack. Now you will need a resin and hardener(i always get the fast curing hardener) mix as the directions state and then brush some resin over the area you will be patching. Next lay your fiberglass patch over the area you just brushed, it will stick to the resin you just applied. Now brush on resin over the mat, apply alot. You want the mat to turn from white to clear. If the mat is still white you will have soft pockets that do not have enough resin and that spot will be weak. Once that is done let it harden and if you want you can add another patch over that using the same steps. Then on the outside scrape and loose and chipped gelcoat and fill that with a gelcoat repair kit.

 

[Krispy]

Hey guys,

I was just wondering would it be a good thing to add in a couple of fiberglass layer rather than just gelcoat? I want it to last long.

There is a happy medium between gelcoat and fiberglass mat or cloth. It is a fiberglass resin with bits of chopped glass mixed in. It is what I used for the majority of my filling work, and I then gel coated over the top.

Here is my link

 

[prd]

Well, I'm not sure if I actually need fiber glass or not that's the thing, and since its the first time doing anything like this, I'm even more not sure lol

You guys can actually see the pictures of the hull that I need to patch here: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...-Hull-question&p=394790&viewfull=1#post394790

 

[prd]

There is a happy medium between gelcoat and fiberglass mat or cloth. It is a fiberglass resin with bits of chopped glass mixed in. It is what I used for the majority of my filling work, and I then gel coated over the top.

Here is my link

For your repair, mine looks even deeper than yours, did you use only gelcoat to fix it finally?

Quick question, I'm only missing the wool ball + some compound, than I'll start the process if the weather is good, but let say I do it wrong, can a person resand with a 100-400, to remove the gel coat and start over?

 

[jammin777]

yes you can always start over as gel coat is very forgiving to work with.

 

[prd]

Perfect. I might just give it a shot then

 

[Krispy]

For your repair, mine looks even deeper than yours, did you use only gelcoat to fix it finally?

Quick question, I'm only missing the wool ball + some compound, than I'll start the process if the weather is good, but let say I do it wrong, can a person resand with a 100-400, to remove the gel coat and start over?

I used fiberglass reinforced filler to make my area smooth first, then put gelcoat over the top of that. I choose that method because of the fact that I was doing an over all color change and I wasn't sold on the filling properties of gelcoat (never had used it before) for a spot repair I would likely just use gelcoat if I had to do it over again, or fiberglass filler to help fill (but still leave the spot "low" and then fill in with Gelcoat.

If you make it level with filler like I did, once you add gelcoat in the problem area it will be "high" and not look good.

You can always sand and start over but man it is a PITA. I hate body work!

 

[prd]

I used fiberglass reinforced filler to make my area smooth first, then put gelcoat over the top of that. I choose that method because of the fact that I was doing an over all color change and I wasn't sold on the filling properties of gelcoat (never had used it before) for a spot repair I would likely just use gelcoat if I had to do it over again, or fiberglass filler to help fill (but still leave the spot "low" and then fill in with Gelcoat.

If you make it level with filler like I did, once you add gelcoat in the problem area it will be "high" and not look good.

You can always sand and start over but man it is a PITA. I hate body work!

Well, Id have to say if you know what you are doing and have the proper tool, I'm sure it's a fun task, but when its new and you have half the right tool to complete the job, then I bet its a pan, since you'll most of the time not sure if what you are doing is correct. Anyhow, thats maybe just for me. But the goal here is do it once and right so I won't need to start over again.

 

[prd]

Hello All,

I finally got this job started and now at the last step of wet sanding with 800-1000-1500 paper + buffing.

I know a post was mentioned here for the buffing, but more of the products I can't find them at canadian tire.

Anyone care's to share which products could I use from Canadian Tire to get the job done?

Thanks

 

[prd]

I'm actually refering to compounds products.

Would simply this do the job:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/meguiar-39-s-ultimate-compound-0392809p.html#.U39eafldWP8
or
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-marine-fibreglass-restorer-wax-0790208p.html#.U39ivfldWP8
or
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-marine-rubbing-compound-0790232p.html#.U39i7fldWP8

Also, when doing the buffing, should I try to buff just the newly patched areas or all the hull? Since the ski is still on the trailer it might be one hell of a job to do the whole hull.

Thanks

 

[brutal]

I'm actually refering to compounds products.

Would simply this do the job:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/meguiar-39-s-ultimate-compound-0392809p.html#.U39eafldWP8
or
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-marine-fibreglass-restorer-wax-0790208p.html#.U39ivfldWP8
or
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/3m-marine-rubbing-compound-0790232p.html#.U39i7fldWP8

Also, when doing the buffing, should I try to buff just the newly patched areas or all the hull? Since the ski is still on the trailer it might be one hell of a job to do the whole hull.

Thanks

That Meguirs stuff sucks compared to 3M Marine Compound (formerly 3M Imperial Compound) and/or Finesse-It. The imperial will cut 800 grit wetsand to a mirror shine (diminishing abrasive) Finesse-it can be used as a followup glaze but is more for regular maintenance and cleaning up minor imperfections (swirl remover). Key is to use a good 3M wool buffing pad. heavy cut pad with the Imperial, light cut pad with the Finesse or when buffing in 303 UV protector.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-06044-Impe...00876118&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+imperial+compound

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NUNVG/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 05719 Very aggressive 100% wool. 3/9 on a scale (1=most aggressive)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KSTFHQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 05711 Wool blend 6/9 on aggressive scale

 

[prd]

I've just did a 1000-1500 wetsanding and I think I'm almost at the max of sanding as it can get. Is it dangerous to use: 3M Marine Compound if I'm quite at my sanding limit? At the end of the day all I really want is my newly patch to be as shiny as the rest of the hull.

But I might also use the 3M marine compound for renewing the whole ski once I'm completely done with this patch up.

Maybe I just do not know the right places to get the proper stuff here in Quebec, but I find it hard find the proper products to get this job done.

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

 

[brutal]

I've just did a 1000-1500 wetsanding and I think I'm almost at the max of sanding as it can get. Is it dangerous to use: 3M Marine Compound if I'm quite at my sanding limit? At the end of the day all I really want is my newly patch to be as shiny as the rest of the hull.

But I might also use the 3M marine compound for renewing the whole ski once I'm completely done with this patch up.

Maybe I just do not know the right places to get the proper stuff here in Quebec, but I find it hard find the proper products to get this job done.

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions.

Not dangerous. Cut can be controlled with pressure. Just go light and let the tool and compound do the work. LOW speed for the initial cut and as the compound breaks down and starts to haze pick up the rpms. I run 600 rpm low up to 1400 rpn max.

I've also had good results using finesse-it after a 1500 or 2000 wet sand.

The Imperial is also great for shining up chalky, badly uv damaged gelcoat.

I find it easier and cheaper in the long run to get the RIGHT products online even when I have to wait for them.



Sent from my subconscious mind.

 

[Mickirig1]

Wear a good dust mask when sanding fiber glass or the gel coat. You don't want to inhale the particles.

 

[prd]

I was wet sanding by hand so there wasn't that much dust.