P1655 and not starting

[Adlpb]

Long story short, I haven't been able to use my RXP since mid may. I just tried to turn it on today and it does not crank. I can hear the fuel pump priming, but nothing else. I also got a CEL P1655 "DESS line shorted to 12V"*

I checked the battery at advance auto and they told me that it still has some juice to it.

I checked all fuses and they seem to be ok.

I cleaned all contacts to the starter relay. There are 11.5-11.8V of power when I test the battery and starter relay wires, and around 2.2Amps. I checked the wires in the starter button and they seem to be fine.

Someone told me that a key programming issue would not be the fault because I would get some other sort of error code. Is this true?

I get one long beep after inserting the key and 4 short beeps after (separated by about 5 seconds)

If anyone has any ideas as to what coul be wrong please let me know. I have exhausted all the possible options.

Thanks

 

[Adlpb]

Bump...anyone?

 

[KK40384]

Ok first step: Check battery voltage under load and report back. I'm willing to bet its a junk battery.

 

[Adlpb]

Ok first step: Check battery voltage under load and report back. I'm willing to bet its a junk battery.

Like I said, I checked the voltage when attempting to start and voltage remained around 11.6-11.8. I also took it to advance auto and they load tested it. They said it should crank at the least.

 

[Michael211_2000]

I'm not impressed with the "it still has some juice to it"... some juice isn't the same as good juice. Still sounds like you need to replace the battery even if that's not the actual fault "some juice to it" doesn't inspire much confidence in me.

Given that the battery is how many years old? I'd replace it with a new battery 1st and see if that corrects the problem. If that doesn't change things then replace the DESS post next. Still no go, take it to a dealership and let them do diagnostics on it with their computer system and they should be able to detect what the problem may be. You're gonna have to spend a little money no matter what here, might as well start with the basics and something you probably need anyhows... a new battery.

Most people report only getting about 3 solid years out of their battery on these SeaDoo's, it takes a lot of cranking amps to turn the 4TEC engine over and then the thing sits most all winter long often in the cold which kills the batteries much sooner than a car battery in an automobile.

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

Bump...anyone?

And don't "Bump" your post every darn day! I see you did this on multiple website forums this weekend... that's really bad forum etiquette!

Regards.

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

... when I test the battery and starter relay wires, and around 2.2Amps.

Yeah that's almost nothing though for a battery... 2.2amps! It probably goes even lower when the starter relay engages.

I don't recall how many amps my RXT's battery is rated at, but most automobile batteries are like 40-60 "cold cranking amps" so... I bet 2.2 amps isn't enough for the starter to turn the engine over. Put a new battery in and try starting it again.

- Michael

 

[KK40384]

I cleaned all contacts to the starter relay. There are 11.5-11.8V of power when I test the battery and starter relay wires, and around 2.2Amps. I checked the wires in the starter button and they seem to be fine.

This is actually what you said. Tell where in that statement is mentioned that you load tested the battery. As far as advance auto telling you that "it still has some juice left" doesnt make me fee; warm and fuzzy about the quality of the battery. If that battery is more than 2 years old its probably dead. They only last 2-3 years.

 

[Adlpb]

Thanks for the reply guys. And yes, I had posted in another forum but did not get anywhere near the responses I got here.

Quick question back to the battery though. I know that jump starting a jet ski with a car isn't good for the ECU. But if in the case that it didn't work that way, wouldn't that rule out the battery completely, since the cranking power is coming from a vehicle?

 

[Michael211_2000]

Quick question back to the battery though. I know that jump starting a jet ski with a car isn't good for the ECU. But if in the case that it didn't work that way, wouldn't that rule out the battery completely, since the cranking power is coming from a vehicle?

Yeah well you let me know how well that works for ya. LOL! ROF!

You already read NOT to try that, but you wanna try it anyways... good luck!

- Michael

 

[Duane72]

Thanks for the reply guys. And yes, I had posted in another forum but did not get anywhere near the responses I got here.

Quick question back to the battery though. I know that jump starting a jet ski with a car isn't good for the ECU. But if in the case that it didn't work that way, wouldn't that rule out the battery completely, since the cranking power is coming from a vehicle?

The answer is no. In a typical jump scenerio between cars when a battery is totally dead you often still need to let the running vehicle "charge" the dead battery before you can get the dead car to turn over good enough to start it. So the low battery still needs to have some kind of life in it typically to make the jump work right. Typically.

SeaDoos aren't typical to say the least. Theoretically I get where you are coming from, but if the batt in yours is not producing a jump won't necessarily make it happen. And it is risky in causing system damage to the electronics. If you have access to a friends machine see if they'll let you "borrow" the battery from their machine to try in yours. I know the batts can be very pricey so understand the hesitation in replacing it. But something to consider... if the battery is low and not taking charges well but "still has some juice in it" the problem there is it can tax your charging rectifier and begin to burn that out. Once a battery gets low on the load test it should be replaced for the health of your machine. A battery costs less than two hours of labor cost you at most repair shops.

I believe the OEM batts on these machines are 200 to 300 cold cranking amps.

 

[Adlpb]

The answer is no. In a typical jump scenerio between cars when a battery is totally dead you often still need to let the running vehicle "charge" the dead battery before you can get the dead car to turn over good enough to start it. So the low battery still needs to have some kind of life in it typically to make the jump work right. Typically.

SeaDoos aren't typical to say the least. Theoretically I get where you are coming from, but if the batt in yours is not producing a jump won't necessarily make it happen. And it is risky in causing system damage to the electronics. If you have access to a friends machine see if they'll let you "borrow" the battery from their machine to try in yours. I know the batts can be very pricey so understand the hesitation in replacing it. But something to consider... if the battery is low and not taking charges well but "still has some juice in it" the problem there is it can tax your charging rectifier and begin to burn that out. Once a battery gets low on the load test it should be replaced for the health of your machine. A battery costs less than two hours of labor cost you at most repair shops.

I believe the OEM batts on these machines are 200 to 300 cold cranking amps.

Thank you for the mature response. I will try this out and let you guys know.

 

[BMANN06]

Try a different key/dess if you don't have one, borrow one from a friend and take it to a dealer and have them program it. I've seen a lanyard exhibit this error code before.