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Oil pump issue

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daniel3599

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I have a '96 or '97 seadoo gti ski, not sure which one, but I was thinking about taking the oil pump out and premixing.. a buddy of mine said that the carberator jets might need to be re-jetted for the mixture. would this need to be done on this year model..i've read about putting the block off kit in, and nobody ever mentioned that it had to be done. just wanted to make sure
 
no need to rejet it. Install block kit, or just removethe pump and its gear, then re-install pump. Block off the injection fittings and the oil line from tank to the pump. Leave the other ones with oil along with the oil tank as well, with oil in it.
 
thanx again for helping, its been sitting up for about 2yrs, i was told, and was also told it was a brand new engine. from the looks of it though, it looks like it's been sitting up for like 10. lol. i put a new starter on it cause it was sticking, a new battery, and some plugs..i pulled the carbs. off and am goin to clean them. they looked horrible. i was told it was good idea to pull that oil pump and block it off, that way i know it'll get the oil where it needs and not worry about the pump going out on me...plus with the condition i'm finding the starter and carbs in, not even sure the pump even works. lol. thanx again for the information!
 
I have a '96 or '97 seadoo gti ski, not sure which one, but I was thinking about taking the oil pump out and premixing.. a buddy of mine said that the carberator jets might need to be re-jetted for the mixture. would this need to be done on this year model..i've read about putting the block off kit in, and nobody ever mentioned that it had to be done. just wanted to make sure

no need to rejet it. Install block kit, or just removethe pump and its gear, then re-install pump. Block off the injection fittings and the oil line from tank to the pump. Leave the other ones with oil along with the oil tank as well, with oil in it.

Hi Daniel,

I was hoping to get some confirmation on the pump removal.
I have 717 engines and PO PO disconnected cable at the pump but gear is still inside cover? The in/out oil feed is connected with the small 2 hoses going to block.
At the oil tank small oil line with one way valve in pinched and capped.
Although the gas tank was filled with straight gas and not premix.
Not sure if Im missing something bc I keep hearing about the block off?
Any help appreciated
 
Hi Daniel,

I was hoping to get some confirmation on the pump removal.
I have 717 engines and PO PO disconnected cable at the pump but gear is still inside cover? The in/out oil feed is connected with the small 2 hoses going to block.
At the oil tank small oil line with one way valve in pinched and capped.
Although the gas tank was filled with straight gas and not premix.
Not sure if Im missing something bc I keep hearing about the block off?
Any help appreciated

In the long term , as I understand it , leaving the gear in place , turning and not pumping oil could wreck the gear and then youd have some busted parts inside the engine case. Pro's , does that sound right ?
 
hi ocod,

I'm not real familiar with all the mechanics on these skis, but what i've been reading is that all recommend taking the pump out and the little shaft a gear too. some say that you can take that gear off and leave the pump in the hole so that nothing is turning on the inside. I put a block off kit in mine and it ended up being really simple. If u left the pump in place and took the gear off, you would need to premix though. But make sure you leave the two oil lines going to the crank though and your oil tank cause oil is gravity fed to your crank reservoir. Hope that helped some, like i said i'm still working on mine because of it sitting so long. My carbs. were filthy and now i'm trying to find a good deal on a carb kit for my model
 
hi ocod,

I'm not real familiar with all the mechanics on these skis, but what i've been reading is that all recommend taking the pump out and the little shaft a gear too. some say that you can take that gear off and leave the pump in the hole so that nothing is turning on the inside. I put a block off kit in mine and it ended up being really simple. If u left the pump in place and took the gear off, you would need to premix though. But make sure you leave the two oil lines going to the crank though and your oil tank cause oil is gravity fed to your crank reservoir. Hope that helped some, like i said i'm still working on mine because of it sitting so long. My carbs. were filthy and now i'm trying to find a good deal on a carb kit for my model

I saw after you have a ski and mine is a boat.
Either way they are all 2 stoke oil injected engines :cheers:
thanks for the reply

Yep I got the manual and had other thread where they pointed me in the right direction.
x2 block off for cleaner look.
You have to have intake cover off to see hose to bottom of engine and return line is on other side.
Since I'm a twin I loop lines w/the filters.
Then it's 40:1

I did carb rebuild myself and got the wrong kit :mad:
ended up re using N/S and spring(avoid pop off check I quess) and re used diaphragm b/c one from kit didn't seal as good as the old...
replaced the FF / O-ring to N/S / and both cover gaskets for 50+ bucks :mad:

boat at mechanic now getting all new propulsion system. PO really beat on it and ran it shit......
 
do oil pumps really go bad that often? my pump was disabled by the previous owner and i would love to re-enable it, its just soooo much more convenient. but I'm worried just like every other newbie owner of a pump going bad and seizing the engine.
 
do oil pumps really go bad that often? my pump was disabled by the previous owner and i would love to re-enable it, its just soooo much more convenient. but I'm worried just like every other newbie owner of a pump going bad and seizing the engine.


Nope. The pumps almost never fail. They are a simple pump, and they are full of oil... so they don't wear out.


When people say they had an oil injection failure... it's normally a problem of lack of maintenance. (so user error)

1) there is a filter in the hose going to the pump. It can get plugged, and you loose feed oil. The filter is supposed to be changed every year, but I know people who have never changed it.

2) the small hoses between the pump and the manifold crack, and fall off. These too should be changed once in a while. I do them every other year.

3) the nipples in the intake manifold get plugged. They are where it gets hot, and the oil will cook into the tip. If you are changing the little hoses, you can make sure they are clear.

If you do normal maintenance, there is a very small chance of having oil injection issues. Plus, if you are servicing the system, you will have to bleed it, and you will have a visual confirmation that the oil is pumping.
 
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