Oil pump AND throttle sticking?

[MLars]

Finally got the boat out of the garage after this long cruel winter! Unfortunately my simple task of replacing filters turned into something much larger. The throttle of one engine sticks when it's pushed more than 75%, but anything less than that and it returns just fine. Also, the oil pump doesn't return at all. I can push it back, but it's very hard to move. Haven't checked the other engine yet. Anyone have any ideas? Boat is a 97 speedster, twin 717s.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Does replacing filters have anything to do with throttle and oil pump cables? I'm guessing it must have some relationship or is this a coincidence?

If the cables are damaged, IMO they should be replaced. (money always well spent once a cable begins sticking and binding for no apparent reason).

 

[MLars]

Does replacing filters have anything to do with throttle and oil pump cables? I'm guessing it must have some relationship or is this a coincidence?

If the cables are damaged, IMO they should be replaced. (money always well spent once a cable begins sticking and binding for no apparent reason).

No replacing the filters had nothing to do with it. I was just taking the airbox off to get better access to the bleed screw. I don't think it's the cable because when I twist the throttle by hand the cable loses tension, yet it still gets stuck.

 

[Waterluvr]

You really need to remove the captive end of the cables from your bell cranks and see where the problem is, when you advance the bell cranks and tension the throttle shaft springs they should snap right back on their own without any resistance once the cable ends are removed.

When you get the cables free of the bell cranks and move them you may find a dead spot in them, if the ends still look good try lubing the cables a visit to any motorcycle shop will net you a cable luber attachment for under $20.00 and I'll go way out of my way to buy a can of tri-flow with teflon they work like new after a treatment with that stuff.

If you can't find tri-flow CLP that is commonly sold for cleaning and lubing firearms works really well and it's got some teflon in it. If you want to do it on the quick and cheap I think [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] had a good picture of a piece of tubing adapted over the cable ends, some WD-40 or PB Blaster would be a big improvement over nothing.

 

[MLars]

Thanks waterluvr, would you mind elaborating on what the bell cranks and captive end of the cable are? I'm not too familiar with the parts around the carb.

 

[racerxxx]

One goes to the throttle cable, the other is the oil pump cable. Oil pump goes to the PTO carb. You can further dissect it by disconnecting the link bar between the carbs to eliminate one carb of the other.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[racerxxx]

Use tubing that fits snug on the cables then fill with WD or the like and let it flow with gravity.



This pic was from A B Able Truck

 

[Waterluvr]

Thanks waterluvr, would you mind elaborating on what the bell cranks and captive end of the cable are? I'm not too familiar with the parts around the carb.

Thanks to Racer for the pics that should help answer your questions, you'll want to remove the entire air box and base mount from the carbs to get at everything take care not to drop any fastener's into the carb throttle body.

You can loosen the cable adjustment nuts (you'll need two 10mm wrenches) and back the inner nut/washer all the way off the threads so it rides on the bare cable and when you turn the bell cranks open by hand the barrel at the end of the cable will slip out of the retention hole and groove in the bell crank to set it free.

You'll need to do that for both the throttle and oil injection cable, when it's all apart you'll find the source of the problem right away when one of those components binds up or you find a cable end frayed that needs to be replaced.

 

[racerxxx]

Thanks to Racer for the pics that should help answer your questions, you'll want to remove the entire air box and base mount from the carbs to get at everything take care not to drop any fastener's into the carb throttle body.

You can loosen the cable adjustment nuts (you'll need two 10mm wrenches) and back the inner nut/washer all the way off the threads so it rides on the bare cable and when you turn the bell cranks open by hand the barrel at the end of the cable will slip out of the retention hole and groove in the bell crank to set it free.

You'll need to do that for both the throttle and oil injection cable, when it's all apart you'll find the source of the problem right away when one of those components binds up or you find a cable end frayed that needs to be replaced.

Personally, I would just remove the 2 screws holding the cable bracket---less adjustment when it goes back together if any at all.


Makes assembly gravy.

 

[MLars]

Great! Thanks guys so much for your help. I'll have another look at it this weekend.

 

[Waterluvr]

Great! Thanks guys so much for your help. I'll have another look at it this weekend.

Matt I tried to respond to your questions and got the dreaded "MLars has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space."

I'm in the shop late tonight if you need some help just send an email or text and I'll get back with you.

 

[MLars]

Oops sorry about that! Should be all set now. I'll shoot you an email later, thanks.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Might try lubing everything up, maybe one of the throttle shafts is sticking. WD-40 penetrates well but evaporates pretty quickly. I'd probably hose everything down with my trusty can of fogging oil.

Also make sure there's no screws missing that may have fallen into the carb and caught in one of the butterflies.