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oil pump and adjusting it
- Thread starter murjiim
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murjiim
New Member
goodies
Got me some goddies...
25ft fuel hose from auto parts store f which i only really need 20ft for $17
at seadoo stearship: fuel filter, oil filter, bushing, trim rod moulding screw all cost me $52.25 (minus $25 from this online coupon i got which i payed $25 for and got $50 worth of parts/accessories) so well worth it!
Darn that silly fuel filter was $25..thats crazy!!
Got me some goddies...
25ft fuel hose from auto parts store f which i only really need 20ft for $17
at seadoo stearship: fuel filter, oil filter, bushing, trim rod moulding screw all cost me $52.25 (minus $25 from this online coupon i got which i payed $25 for and got $50 worth of parts/accessories) so well worth it!
Darn that silly fuel filter was $25..thats crazy!!
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murjiim
New Member
here we go
So new filter there you can see and also put in a new oil filter...
jus to make sure
the arrow on the filter are pointing away from the front of the boat so its going towards the carb (for fuel filter) and into oil pump(for oil filter). hope this is right!!!
So new filter there you can see and also put in a new oil filter...
jus to make sure
the arrow on the filter are pointing away from the front of the boat so its going towards the carb (for fuel filter) and into oil pump(for oil filter). hope this is right!!!
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murjiim
New Member
there is this pressure relief valve (#21) and as i took it out it is only one direction ofcourse so i was wondering why it seems to me its is in backwards. i mean shouldn't the pressure built up inside the boat supposed to release to outside? yes the valve is in a way that outside air can come in but pressure from inside cant go out.
is this how it supposed to be or i guess someone put it in backwards.
oh this vents to the top of the boat so thats where the front hood closes
is this how it supposed to be or i guess someone put it in backwards.
oh this vents to the top of the boat so thats where the front hood closes
bigJake
Well-Known Member
4 looks like it might be the gasket for your e-box cover but that is a guess, hard to tell from the picture, if it is like 1/4" or so in height and has like ribs that is probably what it is.
murjiim
New Member
murjiim
New Member
All tempo lines are changed now..all looking really good but sure hope this engine will run.
Also i poked into the front electrical box and discovered the 7.5A fuse is burn. Also the darn covers weren't there then i remembered the seller gave me some stuff in a bag so it was there but only once cover is missing. I tried to go to Canadian Tire and Radio Shack/Source but they dont have this cover. I though i saw it somewhere once. I got some spare fuses too although i had them but was missing a spare 7.5A fuse so i got enough now.
I will post a pic of under the hood to show the new fuel lines
Also i poked into the front electrical box and discovered the 7.5A fuse is burn. Also the darn covers weren't there then i remembered the seller gave me some stuff in a bag so it was there but only once cover is missing. I tried to go to Canadian Tire and Radio Shack/Source but they dont have this cover. I though i saw it somewhere once. I got some spare fuses too although i had them but was missing a spare 7.5A fuse so i got enough now.
I will post a pic of under the hood to show the new fuel lines
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murjiim
New Member
under the hood pics
as promised here are the pics of the new hose under the hood
also ran a compression test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1og0dqs8UU
oh i forgot to ground the plug wires ...hope i didnèt damage anything?
as promised here are the pics of the new hose under the hood
also ran a compression test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1og0dqs8UU
oh i forgot to ground the plug wires ...hope i didnèt damage anything?
Attachments
bigJake
Well-Known Member
murjiim
New Member
ebox is so huge...this gasket is pretty small almost like it should go in the vts black box...which i am having problems with here http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...d-7.5A-fuse-keeps-triping&p=224378#post224378
There is also a gasket between the airbox, but it sounds like the VTS gasket. I also have some of those fuse covers I can throw in if you get the VTS.
murjiim
New Member
wow there is a gasket (#5-isolator??) between the airbox so is that the one that goes around that mesh thing (flame arrestor foam #4)?
another question:
does the housing arrestor go ontop of the air silencer base?
i guess i was thinking of the housing arrestor going directly on the carb then comes the base...
now i see if i look on the manual its housing arrestor on the air silencer base and under the base goes loctite 518 you mean all that is holding the top of the carb which is metal to the plastic is loctite and no gasket? thats odd..does this carb area get hot?
another question:
does the housing arrestor go ontop of the air silencer base?
i guess i was thinking of the housing arrestor going directly on the carb then comes the base...
now i see if i look on the manual its housing arrestor on the air silencer base and under the base goes loctite 518 you mean all that is holding the top of the carb which is metal to the plastic is loctite and no gasket? thats odd..does this carb area get hot?
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry...#4 is a gasket for a rear ebox on a 96xp...doesnt go to yours.
On the carb airbox....the spark arrestor has a rubber gasket, that goes into the part that connects the two carbs. There is a bracket off that that connects it to the motor so the manifold doesnt crack. Then the lower part of the black airbox goes on, then that 6 hole SS piece (#3) sandwiches the parts together. then the lid.
#5 is a gasket for between the ex. manifold and the head pipe.
On the carb airbox....the spark arrestor has a rubber gasket, that goes into the part that connects the two carbs. There is a bracket off that that connects it to the motor so the manifold doesnt crack. Then the lower part of the black airbox goes on, then that 6 hole SS piece (#3) sandwiches the parts together. then the lid.
#5 is a gasket for between the ex. manifold and the head pipe.
murjiim
New Member
thats what i was looking for in mine...i didnt see no rear ebox so i was almost thinking its missing and have to get one!
ok what you said makes sense....i have to take it back out because i have to put that airbox base on first before the #6 housing arrestor. i do have the rubber gasket and it has a ridge on the inside so i assume the mesh thing is surrounded by the rubber and it should fit into #6
ok what you said makes sense....i have to take it back out because i have to put that airbox base on first before the #6 housing arrestor. i do have the rubber gasket and it has a ridge on the inside so i assume the mesh thing is surrounded by the rubber and it should fit into #6
murjiim
New Member
if anyone wants the rear ebox rubber gasket i can send it to you. i clearly don't need it. make me an offer.
question:
is there a bolt that goes from the exhaust and hooks to the engine?
there is this rubber bushing on the exhaust and its lined to a threaded hole on the engine. i have this long allen bolt in the zip bag that came with the ski with other screws so thought it goes there but i cant seem to thread the bolt in. i cant see it in the manual too clear!
question:
is there a bolt that goes from the exhaust and hooks to the engine?
there is this rubber bushing on the exhaust and its lined to a threaded hole on the engine. i have this long allen bolt in the zip bag that came with the ski with other screws so thought it goes there but i cant seem to thread the bolt in. i cant see it in the manual too clear!
yes...and you need that bolt. Its typically a regular bolt head.
Make sure the rubber bushings have their metal washer on both sides. Put the bolt through and get it hand tight. Then tighten the manifold bolts in a cris cross pattern, also tighening the mount bolt.
It HAS to be done in a pattern....if you tighen one or the other, the manifold bolts will either break or back out. VERY common. You also want to use a ton of blue loctite.
Make sure the rubber bushings have their metal washer on both sides. Put the bolt through and get it hand tight. Then tighten the manifold bolts in a cris cross pattern, also tighening the mount bolt.
It HAS to be done in a pattern....if you tighen one or the other, the manifold bolts will either break or back out. VERY common. You also want to use a ton of blue loctite.
murjiim
New Member
here is the pic. \so you can see the bushing but i don't see any bolt there but i was trying to but a bolt that was labeled 'exh side', but just wouldn't thread in!
on the other end of this motor (pto side) i see the hole and the thread but nothing goes there right because the exhaust just miss's that hole
on the other end of this motor (pto side) i see the hole and the thread but nothing goes there right because the exhaust just miss's that hole
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You will have to loosen the pipe to get that bolt to line up. There isnt much wiggle room.
murjiim
New Member
here is the bolt. its the only bolt that i got thats that big in the zip bag with other bolts like for the carb air box, but even that i have 10 of them but should be only 6 according to manual so where do the other 4 go?
well here is the pic of the bolt that had a label on it ' exh side'
there is also the loc nut and 2 washers that clearly go on this bolt.
well here is the pic of the bolt that had a label on it ' exh side'
there is also the loc nut and 2 washers that clearly go on this bolt.
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That bolt should work.
On the 10 airbox bolts....4 hold the carb adaptor thing to the carbs, then the other 6 hold the airbox thing onto the adaptor.
On the 10 airbox bolts....4 hold the carb adaptor thing to the carbs, then the other 6 hold the airbox thing onto the adaptor.
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