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Oil Lines

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ChrisV

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I was working on cleaning my carbs and noticed one of the little OIL Injector Lines is cracked. I am talking about the tiny lines to the injector needles not the big main feed lines from the resevoir.

I also notice oil is kinda everywhere in the engine compartment...
So...
1-What are the inside diameters of the both the smaller and larger lines
2-Where can I buy some new oil lines, both the larger and the smaller lines at?
3-Does it have to be any kind of special material or will just any clear tubing work???

Also on the smaller lines, can I just remove the clamps and replace the tube, leaving the banjo fitting and the injector in place and just use a zip tie on it to secure new line, or does the replacement line have the injector and banjo fitting already attached???
IMG_0602.JPG
 
Also... What is the purpose of the larger oil line leaving the bottom of the rotary valve area (on the block), is it a return line or another feed line for the crankcase...
If I replace that line, does that line need to be bleed???
 
Lot's-O-questions... and you are very lucky you found it before you burnt up your engine! Those little lines are what give the oil injection a bad reputation. They should be changed every couple years to be safe... and they should be inspected any time you are playing with the engine.


OK... the small lines are 1/8" ID. Some guys use fuel line for a weed-eater, some go to the dealer and buy factory replacements, but I use 1/8" ID Tygon Fuel line. (can be bought at your local hobby shop) In reality, any gasoline stable hose is fine. And yes... you can just use Zip-ties to hold the new hoses on. If you go to a hobby shop to buy hose... do not get silicone fuel line for "Glow" fuel. It will swell up, and probably die before you make it to the water.


The big hose going into the crankcase is the oil feed to the rotary valve gears. The hose coming out the back, by the exhaust is the oil return. These hoses don't need bled. The oil will flow as soon as you fill the system. Just make sure they aren't clogged up.
 
ok thanks, guess i need to find a lawnmower service shop or hobby store near me...

So I can just pull the tubing off the injector needle and banjp bolt, leaving them in place
 
So I can just pull the tubing off the injector needle and banjo bolt, leaving them in place

Yes. I normally take a long piece of tube, hook it to the manifold nipple, and blow though it, just to make sure they aren't clogged.


Don't forget to bleed the system after you are done.
 
i bought some really good "oregon line at a local lawn mower repair shop looks sick too... bright yellow, put oil in em they turn purpl...coulsd have sworn i replied to this thread this morning,,,, i wrote a short story??
 
i did mine last weekend took those dumb sea doo clips threw them in my neighbors yard and reinstalled new line with zipties... for the big line Lowe's sells some clear braided line that looks sick and it's durable... and will support oil... dont forget some new hose clamps... all my lines were done with zipties when i bought it, and there was oil every where... i hope this fixes the problem....
 
Anybody know the diameter of the larger oil lines, 1/4" like the fuel???
Do I need to replace the grommets that go in the oil tank or can they be reused?
 
i replaced mine while the tank was dry... not sure think one is 1/4" and the other is 5 or 7/16"... could be totally wrong... just clip off a piece and take it with you... the grommets are only like $4.00 i bought like 10 of them incase they decide to disco them...
 
i replaced mine while the tank was dry... not sure think one is 1/4" and the other is 5 or 7/16"... could be totally wrong... just clip off a piece and take it with you... the grommets are only like $4.00 i bought like 10 of them incase they decide to disco them...

Wait where did you get the grommets for the tanks?
 
top right hand corner under parts... or seadoopartshouse.com.... lemme knoe if you cant find them, if you do buy a bulk. just for fun
 
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