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Oil Injection RETURN SPRING (720)
- Thread starter DEEz
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This is from a 787 but might give you an idea of where to look. The spring "bumps" against a post just below the bleed screw on the 787. Make sure you align the 2 line marks to adjust the pump correctly
DEEz
Member
Thanks, I finally got chance to pull the carb back off last night to get a somewhat better view LoL.
I found the hook was still in the rotating arm but the engine side hook wasn't loaded.
I see now that when I had removed the cable off the oil pump to have better access to the carb (for when I was replacing the gray fuel lines) that the arm had done a 180 sweep & lost its tension. I corrected it & it retracts now.
I found the hook was still in the rotating arm but the engine side hook wasn't loaded.
I see now that when I had removed the cable off the oil pump to have better access to the carb (for when I was replacing the gray fuel lines) that the arm had done a 180 sweep & lost its tension. I corrected it & it retracts now.
NewtoSeadoo
New Member
Hi I am in the same boat (no pun intended) I did a carb rebuild and i can feel he spring under the carb but how do I reset the tension on that arm so that it opens and closes properly with the throttle. Last thing to do! Please help - Thanks
NewtoSeadoo
New Member
Thanks DEEz - I'll give it a go next time I'm at the lake and get back to you - The spring doesn't seem to be connected to that arm at all so I have to figure out how it connects then do the full turn. Do you know how to connect it? And also do I need to bleed the oil line after all this before starting her up - It's a 99 GS just replaced all tempo lines
DEEz
Member
The spring has basically unraveled (due to the cable had released it).
The spring is on the same shalf as the lever/arm is on.
When you rotate the arm the spring will load it self up (pretty simple once you see it).
I would fix this issue before riding it as the lever/arm will float around since its not under a tension.
As in bleeding the oil line, I just let the oil gravity push the air out before I reconnected the oil line back under the carb. I didnt have any issues.
Again it was a lot easier to unhook & rehook the cable with the carb unbolted & moved over some.
The spring is on the same shalf as the lever/arm is on.
When you rotate the arm the spring will load it self up (pretty simple once you see it).
I would fix this issue before riding it as the lever/arm will float around since its not under a tension.
As in bleeding the oil line, I just let the oil gravity push the air out before I reconnected the oil line back under the carb. I didnt have any issues.
Again it was a lot easier to unhook & rehook the cable with the carb unbolted & moved over some.
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NewtoSeadoo
New Member
Thanks again - I'll do what you say and let you know how it goes! While you're responding what fuel do you run - the manual says never run more than 87 octane but everyone keeps telling me 91 - I'm new to all this and just don't want to damage anything before I even start. So far only had one ride when I had the WOT hesitation from the tempo lines.
NewtoSeadoo
New Member
Well no problem getting the spring and arm back intact but I cannot get her to start. Kicks on but will not run - changed fuel lines and they all are where they're suppose to be. Oil light will come on for a second or so - I did bleed the lines so there is oil... Any ideas?
What do you mean by; "kicks on but will not run"? Does this mean the starter is turning the motor over?
Lou
NewtoSeadoo
New Member
Yes, I have spark and ignition but almost like there is no gas and now the oil light will come on in water. I traced all the lines I replaced and everything is going where it should. Oil pump arm and spring are working as they should and I did bleed the oil line and plenty of oil there. I did find that I did not splice back in the 'straight line fitting' from the carb return line back to the tank so I will do this today. Would that cause the issue?
DEEz
Member
I normally use 93.
Oil in the chamber reduces the octane rating of the fuel and increases the chances of detonation.
Pre-ignition is usually followed by detonation.
Higher octane resists pre-ignition better (ignites slower)
Make sure you didnt cross the carb lines up.
On the carb end.
Top line goes to tank ("return"),
Bottom line comes from the fuel screen filter under the hood ("fuel feed line").
NewtoSeadoo
New Member
First thanks a lot for helping guys! I have quadruple checked fuel lines and blew out fuel selector. Had a friend who is mechanically minded do the same as well to get fresh eyes on it. Gas is filling the filter and getting into carb - we actually got it to start dry and stay running for a bit - lots of white smoke... Before I did the fuel line change over it would start and run fine at idle except at WOT it would drop down to half throttle speed. That's why I replaced the lines and cleaned carb out. I haven't touched anything but the fuel lines and carb - never adjusted any of the speed screws so should all still be as they were when it was working. I don't know what I've done...
DEEz
Member
The smoke could be the excess oil that got by when that oil regulator arm wasn't loaded with the spring.
Mine did the same & I hooked the water line up (NOTE-after I started it) & let it run awhile until it cleared up some.
So you did clean the very small fuel filter inside the carb???
When my carb filter started stopping up the engine would flare up with throttle but die out due to fuel starvation.
NewtoSeadoo
New Member
I just can't get it to run long enough to clear that out - gonna spend another day on her today though. And Yes I put in a brand new one of the small fuel filters in the carb. I didn't change the carb speed screws but we're gonna try that today maybe one got knocked around.
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