Finally got carbs and fuel lines rebuilt about my 95 XP sat winterized for 2 years. Looks like I have some oil guite a bit actually in bottom of hull. See attached pic for I'm hoping that oil line is source. Can someone verify this is an oil line and any advice on getting to it to replace? I'm guessing carbs might have to come back off
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Oil in Bottom of Hull
- Thread starter Stal8080
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dieselndoo
Active Member
Can't really determine anything from picture, but I know the resivoir will expand and contact over years. The bung bushing at bottom of tank, over the years, will allow the oil to seep past... I'd in doubt, replace the infection lines and go have fun
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Not sure if you're pre-mixing but the small 3/32" tygon F-4040-A rubber tubing is probably about rotten by now if still original. Need to go thru that entire oil injection system and make sure it's setup and working properly.
If there's any doubt while bringing it back to life you can temporarily mix some oil in the fuel while getting the oil injection up to par.
If there's any doubt while bringing it back to life you can temporarily mix some oil in the fuel while getting the oil injection up to par.
benjilafouine
Well-Known Member
Mine has a few drops leaking as well. Need to replace the bushing. I believe that after a very long period (like after two year), it could be your issue. I have to fix mine at the end of the season.
Benji.
The line in your picture is the oil injection line from the pump to the intake manifold. It is 3/32" tygon fuel line available at any mower shop and Home Depot. Those are original and need to be replaced. Another common leak is the rubber grommet on the bottom of the oil tank as others have indicated.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
ya, time to replace those lines for sure, but I doubt they are the source of the leak, if they lost that much your engine would have seized by now.:facepalm: so i think it can be eliminated as the source.
my first guess is the rubber grommet, duly noted, that's my first guess pretty much 90% of the time.
my first guess is the rubber grommet, duly noted, that's my first guess pretty much 90% of the time.
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Since I pulled it out of storage I probably had it running a total of 15 secs if that started once just to see if she would turn over then immediately off and then fired up after carbs and fuels lines done just to run fuel to system engine was on maybe 10secs tops. Think that damaged it?? Also where does that 2nd broken line plug into?
dieselndoo
Active Member
Just get small weed wacker fuel line. You will be ok. Use NORMAL zipties or reuse the existing factory clamps. There probably covered in paint. Just squeze/squidh the ends to snug up. It ain't brain surgery, folks
to answer honestly you mean after I change out bad lines?? If I should absolutely....I would need some advice as the best way to do that.
Seadoodoc
Active Member
That my friend is most comprehensive description of " your plumbing is tired" I ever heard..... you rock!
That is wrong, DO NOT open the bleed screw while the engine is running.
The bleed screw is to get any air out of the pump and the line from the pump to the tank.
To bleed the air from the small lines from the pump to the tank with the engine at idle hold the oil pump lever full open and it will quickly pump oil through the lines purging all the air out.
Yep the drill works too but honestly it isn't necessary unless you have reason to thing the pump isn't working. At idle there is no load on the engine and there is always residual oil in a 2-stroke. IF you are worried dump a cap full of oil down the carbs. You will be surprised how fast those lines fill with the lever held wide open.
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