Newbie with a 2000 challenger 2000 fuel system question

[Mcgann454]

Hi,
New to the Seadoo Sportboat, but I have a 96 XP and a 14" Sugar Sand with the 120 Sortjet. I found an great deal on a 2000 Challenger 2000 that would not start but the engine was not locked up. I pulled the vst and found this:
http://s222.photobucket.com/user/mcgann454/media/VSTFuel.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

I have tested the fuel system to the VST and cleared that but I am looking for the right attachment to go to the fuel pressure test port. The port had no pressure when I tried to clear it.

A couple of questions:
Does anyone know what the fitting I need for the port and is there an adapter for the standard fitting? It is not a standard used on cars.

If I have to pull the injectors to have them cleaned and balanced, does the head have to be removed or can they be pulled with the head in place? In my research, a couple of posters mentioned the dealer told them the head had to be pulled.
Thanks in advance,
Mike

 

[Dr Honda]

Welcome.


First.... the 2000 would have had a Merc engine. So, this belongs in the Merc section. (i'll move it for you)

Second... that could have had either a 210 or 240 engine. But, since you are talking about injectors... I will assume it's the 240 EFI engine.

But, to help us out... list the serial number on the power head.

And Last..... what's the VST? The vapor tank?

 

[Mcgann454]

Sorry about the mis-post.
Yes it is the 240EFI
The serial number is OE384691
I had seen the Vapor Tank referred to as the vst (the whole assembly). A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
BTW
I changed the water separator and tested the primer and low pressure pump and the fuel in those looked pretty good.
Thanks

 

[Dr Honda]

I assumed everything correctly.... but I didn't want to take it for granted. Just an FYI... your S/N gives you the first gen 240 sportjet.


So... what's the junk in the picture? Rusty fuel? Oil? Whatever it is... that's ugly.


The pressure fitting on the high pressure side of the system is a regular schrader valve. (like you your car tires) So, you can use a tire gauge to check it. (not the best tool, but it will work)

The high pressure pump should energize when you first turn the key on. I'll have to look it up... but off the top of my head... you are looking for 34 to 38 psi.

If you do not get any function at the pump, you can CAREFULLY lift the wires from the pump terminals, and check for 12v. Sometimes the terminals corrode, so if you do get 12v, then clean the wires, and put them back on, and see if the pump turns on.

If you don't get 12v, then there are a few fuses on the starboard side of the engine. Check those.


Lastly... if the pump is running, and you don't have any pressure. Since the fuel in the vapor tank looked bad... I would pull the pump, and there is a filter on the bottom of it. It could be plugged up.



Is the fuel coming up from the tank look OK?

 

[Mcgann454]

Thanks doc! LOL
I'll check the pressure tomorrow morning. I did check the primer pump and the low pressure pump and those seem to be working fine. The fuel that came through was older but looked ok with no varnish deposits. There was only about 5 gallons in the tank. I put marine stabile in there along with 15 gallons of premium using the amount of stabile for storage. The crap in the bottom of the bucket came from the vapor tank. There was a clump of deposits in the bottom. When i took the bottom of the tank off, the filter on the bottom of the high pressure pump looked mostly clean, especially considering what it was sitting in. I cleaned everything well and put it back together, but I did not bolt it completely back on the power head in case I have to replace the pump. I'll check the pressure and the power to the pump and report back. The terminals were pretty clean.
Thanks

 

[Dr Honda]

Just a little more info...

The 12v wire (red) is hot all the time, when the battery switch is on. The computer controls the ground wire on the pump. SO... if you take a wire from the negative of the high pressure fuel pump, and ground it to the engine block... it should turn on. Also... the 12v wire on the pump, is common to the power of the fuel injectors. So if you don't have 12v at the pump, and the fuses are good... then also check for power at the injector harness.

 

[Mcgann454]

OK, so I used a tire pressure gauge and got a little squirt when I put it on the schrader valve, but nothing after that. I did not get a pressure reading off of it either. I did get a good light on the tester at both terminals with the key on. I think the pump is shot.
If I try to start the motor after it sits for a while, I get a quick hit like it wants to start, but then dies. nothing after that. Do you think that is residual fuel getting into the cylinders and giving it a hit kind of liker using starter fluid?

 

[Dr Honda]

OK, so I used a tire pressure gauge and got a little squirt when I put it on the schrader valve, but nothing after that. I did not get a pressure reading off of it either. I did get a good light on the tester at both terminals with the key on. I think the pump is shot.
If I try to start the motor after it sits for a while, I get a quick hit like it wants to start, but then dies. nothing after that. Do you think that is residual fuel getting into the cylinders and giving it a hit kind of liker using starter fluid?

It could. But without pressure on the injectors... there wouldn't be any fuel. Chances are... you can just getting a pop off the old oil in the engine.


Since what drained out the the vapor tank was bad... I will agree that the pump could be bad. Pull it, and give it a good once over. Hopefully you can clean it, and get it going. It's expensive!!


I know you said that the lift pump seemed OK.... but have you verified that you have clean fuel in the vapor tank again? Also, did you mount the tank on the engine? There is a float, and needle in it. So, if it's not level... the fuel may not flow into it.

 

[Mcgann454]

I did pull the tank and cleaned everything. I also cranked it a bit after I put it back together and then drained the tank and the fuel looked good. I have been reading some forum posts and I have the original fuel filter attached to the primer pump. I'm going to change that out. I changed the water separator as well. I've got some time yet before I can get out on the lake. It was -4 degrees this morning in northern Indiana.
I did mount it back on the block so it was level , just did not tighten it down in case I needed to change it out.

 

[Mcgann454]

Well, it is definitely the fuel pump. Pulled it and hooked it directly to the battery and nothing. Found a new pump and am getting ready to install it. Does anyone know where to get an oversized high pressure clamp for the fuel line from the pump to the injectors? The standard ones at the auto parts stoes are too small.
Btw, $325 for a fuel pump and $48 for the vapor tank gasket is insane.
TIA

 

[SeptemberC]

Keep us posted on your success.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mcgann454]

Well, I got the pump in and it started right up for about 90 seconds. I was getting my phone out to video the motor running and saw water coming out around the cylinder heads. Turns out the previous owner new there were issues with the engine other than the fuel system. I pulled the heads and the bolts were hand tight only. Here is what I found:
http://s222.photobucket.com/user/mcgann454/media/Piston.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s222.photobucket.com/user/mcgann454/media/Head.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
One piston on each side.
They had taken the heads off and seen this, buttoned it up and sold it. I got lucky and have a friend that can get me a reman for about $1650. I'm pulling the head tonight if all goes well.

 

[Dr Honda]

$1600 for a reman powerhead is great!! It would normally cost that much for the parts, and a reground crank.

Just make sure you are getting a sportjet engine. The splines that come out of the gear box aren't the same as an outboard. (different crank)

 

[Mcgann454]

Thanks Doc,
The powerhead came off fairly easily.
Is there anything anyone can think of I should to to the pump while I have the head out?

There seemed to be a lot of oil and gas mix in the space between the head and the pump when we pulled it.

 

[Dr Honda]

If the pump has been serviced regularly... then it's probably fine. But, since the boat is new to you... I would do a "Normal" pump service. That way, if you find anything, you can take care of it, since the first step of removing the pump... is pulling the engine.

You will need 2 quarts of Mercury or Quicksilver high performance gear oil. DO NOT use regular I/O, ouboard gear case oil. It's not meant for the RPM's and load of the jet pump.