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newbie question on jet pump play on a 98 GTS

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ok figured it out now i need to remedy the problem it is alignment

when i tighten the top two 17mm jetpump bolts its fine spins great

when i tighten the bottom 2 lock nuts to just snug im good but if i give them a another turn to make sure good and snug it binds

am i just over tightening everything ? i have tried lifting the front of the motor to maybe reduce that bind when they are very snug but does not change the outcome.

how tight should i make these also these skis do not use the neoprene seal right ? or do they if so i need to get a new one

EDIT
it has all the original spacers in the correct places from the factory
 
Last edited by a moderator:
smi said:
ok figured it out now i need to remedy the problem it is alignment

when i tighten the top two 17mm jetpump bolts its fine spins great

when i tighten the bottom 2 lock nuts to just snug im good but if i give them a another turn to make sure good and snug it binds

am i just over tightening everything ? i have tried lifting the front of the motor to maybe reduce that bind when they are very snug but does not change the outcome.

how tight should i make these also these skis do not use the neoprene seal right ? or do they if so i need to get a new one

EDIT
it has all the original spacers in the correct places from the factory
Click to expand...

shop manual for my ski (07 gsx) shows the pump bolt torque to be 26 ft lbs. I assume yours is the same.

removing the pump/driveshaft should not cause a misalignment. You imply that you are able to lift the front of the engine?
You should not be able to do that. Check if you have broken or loose motor mounts. If so, that will have to be rectified first and the pump realigned.

if the motor mounts are ok, you had a bad pump bearing, so I'm wondering if that maybe caused the splines on one or both ends of the driveshaft to wear or break. I would remove the pump and the driveshaft. to remove the driveshaft, you have to pull back on the Stainless Steel ring and remove the c-clip off the driveshaft before removing the pump. Then remove the pump and the driveshaft should slide right out. Of course you have to loosen the clamps on the boots on both ends of the driveshaft first. verify the splines on each end of the driveshaft are good. also verify the rubber bumpers on each end of the driveshaft are in place. Also make sure the driveshaft is not bent.

Neoprene seal - the parts manual does not show your ski as having one stock, but I would put one in. easier than cleaning RTV off the next time you pull the pump.
 
problem has been resolved. i was over tightening the pump down apparently and it wasn't seating properly in the top of the housing. so after many retries and tighten the bolts down little by little and making sure the shaft still spins i am good to go. I hope to drop it in later today for a test ride.

She fires right up now

Big Jake all motor mounts are good i just replaced 3 of the bad ones so i know they are not broken. When i said i could lift the engine it was because i loosened the bolts so i could try different things. Thanks for the 26lb spec i will go back out and recheck that now
 
smi;
kinda went thru the same thing, trying to realign motor after replacing motor mounts...
was fine after intall, and tested it in water up to about 3k..
once i got to full thottle, driveshaft started leaking...
won't be back to the keys till monday to try, but did you get ANY water in at wide open throttle after install?
and how did you align your motoe?did you just put the shims in the exact place? any issues i should look out for?
im thinking one of my issues is this, but i never heard back from anyone;let me know if this is a possibility:
i took the original clamp off the pto boot, where the driveshaft meets the pto, and when i reinstalled, i used a hoseclamp instead cuz i damage the original one....
would the spot where i tighten the hose clamp cause an OUT-OF-BALANCE problem once i got to wide open throttle? cuz even tho a hoseclamp isnt heavy, im wondering if that extra little tightener peice throws the weight out of balance..
now it even leaks at low rpms...
when i get back monday, i'll try a few more things, then just buy the alignment tool..
thanks
 
96spxpos said:
smi;
kinda went thru the same thing, trying to realign motor after replacing motor mounts...
was fine after intall, and tested it in water up to about 3k..
once i got to full thottle, driveshaft started leaking...
won't be back to the keys till monday to try, but did you get ANY water in at wide open throttle after install?
and how did you align your motoe?did you just put the shims in the exact place? any issues i should look out for?
im thinking one of my issues is this, but i never heard back from anyone;let me know if this is a possibility:
i took the original clamp off the pto boot, where the driveshaft meets the pto, and when i reinstalled, i used a hoseclamp instead cuz i damage the original one....
would the spot where i tighten the hose clamp cause an OUT-OF-BALANCE problem once i got to wide open throttle? cuz even tho a hoseclamp isnt heavy, im wondering if that extra little tightener peice throws the weight out of balance..
now it even leaks at low rpms...
when i get back monday, i'll try a few more things, then just buy the alignment tool..
thanks
Click to expand...

As far as alignment i basically loosened the motor and jet pump and made sure everything spun with out issues then tighten them back up so i did the motor first then tighten the jet pump. all along making sure everything was still good to go. I just used a ziptie on the PTO boot

As far as water at wide open not really unless you count my Fu&K up. i forgot to tighten the hose that expels water from the engine to the jet pump and filled the boat but all is good and ready to go out again today.
 
Do NOT use Screw clamps on the drive. Yes, it can offset balance, but more importantly dangerous as wings could snag a line ect, ect.
 
ok bill..thanks...i figured it was an issue..just wanted to run some tests to see if i needed the alignment tool or not.. and i DID have to use metal shears to cut off the excess of metal hoseclamp b/c it woulda constantly been slamming into the cover...bill, is a ziptie sufficient,or should i order the factory clamp? smi, thanks for the info, and i'll let ya know how it goes mon/tues
 
smi said:
As far as alignment i basically loosened the motor and jet pump and made sure everything spun with out issues then tighten them back up so i did the motor first then tighten the jet pump. all along making sure everything was still good to go. I just used a ziptie on the PTO boot

As far as water at wide open not really unless you count my Fu&K up. i forgot to tighten the hose that expels water from the engine to the jet pump and filled the boat but all is good and ready to go out again today.
Click to expand...

I decided to go ahead and winterize my 96GTI yesterday and discovered I need a new wear ring. When I removed the pump I discovered that I had not tightened the clamp on the inlet hose from the pump. Last time I had the pump off was 3 years ago, talk about being lucky.

Lou
 
bill,was that reply for me? b/c i think thats what im gonna do and give it a shot tomorrow.. also,if this doesnt work, do u guys know if the $75 after return is cheaper to use the alignment tool, or bring it to a shop/dealer JUST for the alignment? motor mounts n pipe and everything else is already put back(like are they gonna charge more than an hours labor?hoping they dont have to take off everything i just put back together) thanks guys
 
zip ties

ok bill, thanks for the info...
I DO have either two big daddy zipties, and they are a 1/2'' thick,
or
I can use the other/standard zip ties instead if needed, these are 1/4'' thick.

What do you recommend?
z2.jpegz1.jpeg
 
A standard 11" cable tie is what I use & reccommend. Tighten, Cut close & 180* apart. Gotta love the SPX.
 
i do love the spx....when i can actually get it driving for more than an hour without having to do three hours of work on it...
especially after i did the motor mounts...at first, it DIDNT leak after the motor mounts were replaced, and i noticed SUCH a difference...like it didn't have that "kinda" cavitation feeling as bad, and it took off ALOT quicker...until the leak happened...
but looking back, im betting 3 or maybe even all four motor mounts were broken since i got it...
Thanks for the help bill, i'll report back n let u know
 
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