New to the forums!!! take a look at these pics.... and offer up your advise

[blknslvr]

New to the forums!!! take a look at these pics.... and offer up your advice

hello everyone first time posting here. Fresh to the whole PWC area but let me tell you i have had a fast-rough-expensive crash course of these things. So the problem at hand. the other day when i was cleaning the ski i noticed oil on the fuel tank and front stator cover. Thinking ,maybe i missed it at some point i cleaned it again. We out on the river for a good 4-5 hours (man is this thing a gas hog!!) after the day of playing i brought it in to clean it again and find the oil has returned!!!. it looks to be coming out of the front cover and the electrical connector. i thought there was only the stator behind this cover? and why is it up so high in the cover? Has anyone else seen or had this problem?


*sorry for the spelling errors*

 

[- BiRkS_]

Yikes! well It is highly, highly unlikely, but possible that your front crank seal failed, and filled the stator housing with oil. It appears that you have a block off plate and someone has removed the oil pump. Unless the original oil pump failed somehow and leaked oil past the driven shaft and into the stator housing, they weren't able to get the oil out, so as the flywheel spins, oil is flung all over and oozes out of the connector.

Scenario 2 is that the oil tank is leaking onto the mag housing harness and following the wire down and pooling in the connector.

Either way, you should get that sorted out immediatly as it can cause shorting in the electrical system, cause missfires, backfires, or just shut off and never start back up.

 

[blknslvr]

Yes I installed the block off and there was no oil in there before. The oil is coming from the front cover and with enough force to splash the oil tankthe oil does not smell like gas.or the crank seals hard to do on these?

 

[Dr Honda]

If your front seal is leaking that much... to push oil out the plug... that engine is not going to live long. I'm kind of thinking that the tank is leaking, and just making a mess.


So... clean it up well, and check it over again. Also... the seals on the tank will dry out, and they are known to leak. So, don't put more than 1/2 tank (oil) in for now. FYI... Superclean works great. Spray it on, and hose it off.


Lastly.... where in Da'Burgh are you, and what river were you on?

 

[blknslvr]

IDK It's making me concerned though. I have all intentions to pull the block off plate tonight after I clean it up and see what I can see. Also I don't know if this is an issue but it had rolled over once. And when attempting to restart it was full of water. We drained it and got it running immediately. Never had a problem after that.I'm actually from Irwin but We where down at the point this past sunday. Like I said it ran great the whole time. Minus the exhaust rattle at idle which I can't stand!

 

[blknslvr]

Also I know the photos are hard to see. The pictue of the oil on the tank you can see (if you can blow it up big enough ) oil trace on the black hose. Which is on the opposite side of the tank hence why I think it is coming from the engine side. Since I'm at work I can't go and actuall look till tonight.

 

[blknslvr]

Well it appears to be as bad as I hoped it wasn't. I pulled the front cover off and there is infact oil in the cover. No it's not full of oil, but oil never the less. I am a Mercedes Benz tech but no seadoo tech. Is there just a crank seal behind the stator plate to change? I understand the motor has to come out and since the seasons almost over I guess it's never too soon to tear it down. On top of the top end refresh. Compression was at 145 on both, wear ring replacement and impeller (a fin is Bent a little) and a jet pump refresh. Or does the crank need to come out?

Edit. Is it possible the oil pump was leaking before I bought the ski. That was the left over oil from previouse use? And the previouse owner just cleaned it off and sold it? Then I came along and did the block off kit? . I've only owned this ski for about 2 months. And maybe put 8 hours of seat time in it. Most of which was this past sun?

 

[- BiRkS_]

Yes that is exactly what i thought happened. 2 possibilities. First, the ski has leaking crank seals, probably oil hydro locked the bottom end, and blew oil past the front crank seal. Second, oil pump is leaking. Did you notice any huge slop in the oil drive shaft? or excess oil from it when you removed it?

Clean it all out with brake cleaner and let air dry (let fumes escape the hull too. Then you can either re-assemble, or see if you can find a pulse line/fitting on that side of the crank case and put say 5 psi in the crankcase and soap up the front crank seal. look for leaks. Or pull the flywheel off, look behind it and see if there is lots of oi "oozing" from the crankshaft. Then its highly likely the seal is bad.

Unfortunately, in order to replace the crank seals, the engine has to be disassembled, and the internal seals can't be replaced unless you get the crank rebuilt (cheaper, easier to go with a good quality reman-not SBT). Might as well rebuild the counterbalance shaft too. Then get a gasket kit, gently hone the cylinders, re-ring the pistons if no signs of scoring, and toss her back together. Probably get away with that for about 600 bucks.

 

[- BiRkS_]

Double post

 

[Dr Honda]

...........

Clean it all out with brake cleaner and let air dry ......................

AAAAUUUUGHHH !!!!! NO!!!!!


Brake cleaner will eat the enamel off the stator winding, and will destroy the glue in the flywheel. Also... it can dry out/shrink the rubber seals. I won't even use superclean there, since it can eat the insulation.

Also... it will wreak havoc on the fiberglass.


Use nothing stronger than simple green, or other deturgent.


But, I would also clean it, and see what happens. There is a chance that it was a forced issue (from hydro lock) or from a leaking oil pump.

Since the summer this year was so bad... and since the weather seems to be rock'in in Pitt right now... do the clean up, and go for at least one more ride to check it.

 

[blknslvr]

That was exactly what I was thiking! Clean it up and retest. Though if I do end up dropping a crank and rebuild the ski will be in for the long run. It took me a while to find one as clean and in my price. Simple green in/on the stator will be fine? Just dry it out well to prevent rust and such?.

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... simple green, a soft brush, (like a paint brush) and water. Then wipe dry... or use a hair dryer on it.

 

[Britrick]

It's a 787 engine isn't it ? Crank seal comes out as part of the stator housing , which can be removed after taking of the flywheel , no need to strip the engine .

 

[blknslvr]

Correct 787. So the outside seal can be replaced once the stator housing has been removed?

 

[Britrick]

The front main crank seal comes out as part of the stator rear housing .

 

[blknslvr]

After googling a photo of the mag housing off the engine I see the seal you mean. That is what I was wishing for! Looks like that will be the 2nd place to start if it still continues to leak after. My concern is all the horror story's of the front cylinder running lean and believed to be due to that seal lol

 

[blknslvr]

well did some more researching and decided to call it a season for this ski. Better to have waited then to have cost more money. Snapped a few pics of the plugs. They were new about 8 hrs ago. They look to be right on par with the running condition. looks like i could probly cut back a little on the pre-mix but im happy where it is at. Also a pick of the ski, and the impeller fin that is bent. It will be stored where it is at. should i get it running again to winterize it? The motor will be out so just coat down the cylinders to keep away rust?

 

[Dr Honda]

If you are keeping it in a warm garage, and the engine is getting pulled... then "Winterizing" is minimal. Just put some stabilizer in the fuel, and call it a day. But... I would also put some fogging oil in the engine just to help keep any rust away.


As far as your "Pre-mix" comment.... that engine needs 40:1 oil, using a synthetic API-TC oil. No more, no less.

 

[blknslvr]

40:1 is right where I'm at. The oil is bombadiar synthetic oil what they call for. Ahhh yes this fogging oil I read about, will the local seadoo shop have this?

 

[RebuiltSeadooBaffles]

Yes, can also get it on amazon and fleabay too if the dealer is far away.

 

[Dr Honda]

40:1 is right where I'm at. The oil is bombadiar synthetic oil what they call for. Ahhh yes this fogging oil I read about, will the local seadoo shop have this?

Yep.


But "Sta-Bil" also has a version, and you can get it at Pep-boys.