New to the doo

[92rslt1]

Hello, I recently purchased a sea doo. Its a 99 limited with the 951 motor. I got a screaming deal on the ski and trailer so I couldnt pass it up. I noticed even more good news after I got it home. The motor was replaced in 08 so its newer. The reason I got a good deal was because it was missing carbs. It was taken in to a repair shop or something and they never gave em back. I already ordered a set and I am waiting for them to come.

Anyway my question is this.

What are the common problems and how can I prevent them?

What should I do to better help keep water out of my engine?

Anything I should know about it or check on it?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Rebuild those carbs your getting. I would recommend genuine Mikuni kits, and a set of new needles and seats.

Change out the fuel lines. Black automotive or marine is best.

Take the fuel selector out and clean it.

Clean the rave valves.

Change pump oil.

That is the normal things I do on most machines. Its kind of a biatch on your machine, but checking engine alignment is a very good thing to do if you dont have paperwork showing it was done when the engine was rebuilt.

I just had one in my shop that it was obvious it had been shadetree'd...and the alignment was so off I had to replace the driveshaft and PTO. On your machine it can wreck even more parts.

 

[92rslt1]

good advice man.. I will do all of those things.

where can I get parts? like oil pump and stuff? I think you reffering to the oil injector correct?

I was reading about trim problems and water getting into the engine easy on this model. Anything I should do to help stop this?

 

[jhjesse]

good advice man.. I will do all of those things.

where can I get parts? like oil pump and stuff? I think you reffering to the oil injector correct?

I was reading about trim problems and water getting into the engine easy on this model. Anything I should do to help stop this?

Jet Pump...change the oil in your jet pump.

 

[RebuiltSeadooBaffles]

How did you fine out the motor was replaced when you got home? I just bought a 2000 XP today and was told it was replaced a few years ago but would like to find out for sure.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Fuel line at auto parts store, and the needles and seats and carb kits from any dealer.

The trim you should check the rubber boot on the back and it should have plastic clamps on them. If they have hose clamps get a new boot and the correct clamps.

Open up the VTS cover and make sure its dry too, along with the ebox. Make sure grounds are clean.

 

[92rslt1]

How did you fine out the motor was replaced when you got home? I just bought a 2000 XP today and was told it was replaced a few years ago but would like to find out for sure.

I got all the manuals and paper work and stuff with the machine. when i was going through all the paper work I found the reciept for the motor and the warranty information with its serial number on it. I got the entire machine for 500 bucks with the trailer. best deal i have ever gotten.

I was wondering if they make muffs or something so I can run it out of the water??

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Read your manual...LOL Yes theres a hose adaptor. Oh and make sure to grease the zerk on the pto.

 

[92rslt1]

hey guys.. anyone know what size fuel line i need. theres 2 different sizes and the auto store was trying to sell me atf line.

 

[seadooya]

15ft of 5/16in

5ft of 1/4in

You only need, regular fuel line, atta buk a ft.

The carbs you got, what machine did they come off of?

 

[92rslt1]

15ft of 5/16in

5ft of 1/4in

You only need, regular fuel line, atta buk a ft.

The carbs you got, what machine did they come off of?

I got them off a 2001 951 xp.

 

[92rslt1]

well i got it going a few turns over and it popped off and ran... problem is it screamed lean to max rpms scared the life out of me... I dont dare start it again. It might have been because there wasnt enough fuel in the carb. I put oil in the jugs prior to start up so hopefully no damage was done. compression reads 157-150.

do i dare start it again? I dont dare overheat it since the hose has to be on after the start up.

 

[jhjesse]

well i got it going a few turns over and it popped off and ran... problem is it screamed lean to max rpms scared the life out of me... I dont dare start it again. It might have been because there wasnt enough fuel in the carb. I put oil in the jugs prior to start up so hopefully no damage was done. compression reads 157-150.

do i dare start it again? I dont dare overheat it since the hose has to be on after the start up.

You have an air leak. I'm guessing around the base of the carbs.
Check the carb base gaskets and make sure they are sealing.
Make sure the bolts are tight and the gaskets didn't slip when installing the carbs.


When you crank it again and it starts to runaway with itself just pull the choke.

 

[Wire4Money]

well i got it going a few turns over and it popped off and ran... problem is it screamed lean to max rpms scared the life out of me... I dont dare start it again. It might have been because there wasnt enough fuel in the carb. I put oil in the jugs prior to start up so hopefully no damage was done. compression reads 157-150.

do i dare start it again? I dont dare overheat it since the hose has to be on after the start up.

The 951's are very sensitive to idle RPM's. Some will run away like that. Set the RPM's to 2800 out of water. Some 951's will just run away when you rev. If it does, pull the choke.

 

[92rslt1]

ok, I will give it one more try. My choke wasnt hooked up yet and i might have had the throttle cable a little tight.... I think im missing the plate that the choke cable mounts to. I couldnt find where the nut mounts. The carbs are tight for sure, should I have used sealant on the gaskets? I might order a new set of carb gaskets if it doesnt work right tomorrow.

where does the oil injector inject the oil? I would like to be sure its working before another start up like that. Im going to lube the cylinders again this time as well just incase.

PS. I ended up using 12ft of 5/16'' and 10ft of 1/4'' hose. The old hose was totaly caked with this wierd flakey build up on the insides. It was almost like actual algea. The 1/4 vent hoses were fine w/no build up. Im glad I replaced it... thanks to you guys.

 

[jhjesse]

ok, I will give it one more try. My choke wasnt hooked up yet and i might have had the throttle cable a little tight.... I think im missing the plate that the choke cable mounts to. I couldnt find where the nut mounts. The carbs are tight for sure, should I have used sealant on the gaskets? I might order a new set of carb gaskets if it doesnt work right tomorrow.

where does the oil injector inject the oil? I would like to be sure its working before another start up like that. Im going to lube the cylinders again this time as well just incase.

PS. I ended up using 12ft of 5/16'' and 10ft of 1/4'' hose. The old hose was totaly caked with this wierd flakey build up on the insides. It was almost like actual algea. The 1/4 vent hoses were fine w/no build up. Im glad I replaced it... thanks to you guys.

There should be a bracket on the PTO side of carb that you can connect the choke cable to. The cable threads through the hole with the slot, and the two jam nuts hold it in place.
Something is not installed properly or you have a cracked/warped intake.
I personally do not use sealant, but if it will seal things up and stop the air leak then I would use it.
Idle setting out of the water should be 3000 to 3500 rpms.
Also check the high and low settings. I can't remember off the top of my head the correct settings, but your manual will have it.
I won't guess, so it is better to check.

There is an oil line that goes from the oil tank to a white cylinder shaped filter. Then to the front of the engine (mag) and connects to the oil pump. From the oil pump there is two small lines that run to each cylinder. I would change the oil filter and bleed the system according to your manual. Make sure the small oil lines are connected properly. Also make sure the small oil lines are not brittle or broken. They feed the cylinders.
You will need a mirror to look at the oil pump. With the engine off and the throttle cable at idle setting look at the oil pump. There will be a line/mark on the linkage and a line/mark on the pump. These marks must be aligned. If they are not you will need to adjust the linkage cable coming from the throttle cable until they are properly aligned, otherwise the engine will not oil properly.
When you get the engine started, reach down and hold the oil pump linkage wide open while the engine idles for a minute or two to clear any air that is in the system.

The gummy stuff that you encountered is from the gray tempo fuel lines breaking down from the ethanol content in todays gasoline.
Remove your fuel selector valve and clean it, as well. Chances are better that good that it is partically clogged with that crap.

Hope some of this helps.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I would just replace those little oil lines....you'll have a toasted motor if they get brittle and crack.

 

[crisso]

When you go to bleed the oil pump,take out the glove box.Get a mirror that can just fit through the glove box cut-out.Drop down a small light to help see.Get some white paper towel and put it under the pump and then open the bleed nut/screw.I did mine and it took for ages to bleed completly through.I nipped it back up and did it again about 2 hours later and got some more air out of the line.( the paper towel helps to see the oil because it's pretty slow).

 

[seadooya]

make sure yuor throttle and oil injection cables, are in the respective "throttle plate holes". Dont ask me, why i'm mentioning this to you...:ack:

 

[jhjesse]

make sure yuor throttle and oil injection cables, are in the respective "throttle plate holes". Dont ask me, why i'm mentioning this to you...:ack:

LOL...Seadooya sounds like you learn things like I do.......the hard way!!!!!

 

[92rslt1]

Ok guys, I got her running. Went out fabricated a choke bracket untill I can get the right one and started it up. Took a few cranks but it runs pretty good now, didnt take off on me at all. Idles around 2500... it has a little missfire if its any lower though. Im thinking it just needs to be run, the gas in it is old and mixed with fresh gas. I also mixed a little oil in the gas too about 100:1, just to richen it up since it hasnt been run in ages. Im going to get a set of iridium plugs since thats what i run in all my 2 strokes.. they are foul proof and start better.

So anyway heres a few more questions since you guy have been great so far.

when replacing my hoses I accidentaly broke the check valve near the port side hull. It looks like a pressure release valve for the fuel tank. Anyone know if I can get one for a car or something at my local store that will work? Its the red and white one that snapped.

Also, The carbs that I put on it came with a set of aftermarket filters. They have bags over them and look like some type of performance set up.

Do I ditch the stock air box and run these or should I leave the stock box on and ditch the clamp ons?

Any trick to get the fuel gauge working?

Last question..
My starter sometimes acts like its not engaging the starter or acts like it keeps pulling away from the flywheel then engaging again. Any idea? whats that little box for up near the from starboard tip of the ski? I hear it make a clicking noise some times when the starter acts up.

Again, I thank you guys for all your help. My maintenance list you have helped me compile is almost complete. After I fix the above mentioned items I just have to change the pump oil and clean the rave valves and I should be all set.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

If you need a check valve I have a few...or I'm sure you can get one at the dealer.

If the carbs came with the filters...they are prob setup for them. They make it a bit easier to service too.

Fuel gauge...put an ohm meter on the two wires on the pickup. It will likely read open. That means the pickup has to come out and most likely be replaced. BE FORWARNED! Its a complete nightmare. The tank has to be moved forward, and the steering has to come out so you can use the hole to pull the pickup all the way out. I do have good used pickups if you need one.

 

[92rslt1]

If you need a check valve I have a few...or I'm sure you can get one at the dealer.

If the carbs came with the filters...they are prob setup for them. They make it a bit easier to service too.

Fuel gauge...put an ohm meter on the two wires on the pickup. It will likely read open. That means the pickup has to come out and most likely be replaced. BE FORWARNED! Its a complete nightmare. The tank has to be moved forward, and the steering has to come out so you can use the hole to pull the pickup all the way out. I do have good used pickups if you need one.

Yea, I will try to test it tomorrow. I can imagine that could be hell getting that tank up enough. Theres not exactly good room in there as we know haha. Changing the fuel lines was a nuckle buster. The damn hose clamps were facing the wrong direction to make the job even worse.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

usually the lines will twist so you can turn them to reach...and there is alot of room, but like 2" not enough to pull the pickup out without moving the tank. Just retarded. They should have put a little glovebox there for an access hole!!!

 

[92rslt1]

OK So I hit a road block! I havent worked on it in a few days and the last time I did the starter was spinning but kept disengaging. So i pulled the dess key and its been there waiting for me to get a chance to work on it. any way.. today I was working on something else in my garage and I here this noise from the ski.. it was like a buzzing almost like a fuel pump priming or something.. about every five minutes it would buzz then stop. So i attached the key and moved it around and tried to start it up and it wont do anything. no beep beep or anything. I charged the battery back up and still no response from it.

Any ideas?