New guy - Starting '96 GTX project

[boljr01]

New guy - Starting '96 GTX project - Update, need tuning help

Hi all, newbie here. I have a '96 GTX that's been sitting a while (read 4+ years). My son is getting old enough to begin riding so I thought this would be a good project for us as a way to learn and hopefully teach him (and me) a thing or two.

The ski is physically in good shape (stored indoors) and has low hours according to the guage/meter at ~100. As a first step I'm planning to pick up a new battery to crank it over and check the compression. Next, based on age and comments here, I'll pick up some fuel line and replace them all. Any suggestion on fuel line vendors?

I'm sure I'll have some specific questions as I get into this, but if anyone has any guidance or specific to-do's at this point I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[Bills86e]

You should ask the previous owner for maintenance history on the ski. Invest on an anti-sulfateing battery tender for your new battery.
Can you hand turn the drive shaft? (*plugs out). 99% of Seadoo problems are fuel delivery system related. I suggest go to your towns
Goodyear rubber products store and buy 20' of 1/4" red stripe USCG approved marine grade fuel line and replace the supply & return & the
carb fuel lines. Replace or clean the fuel selector and swab the fuel tank. Open the carb(s) and clean or replace the internal filter(s). Replace
the oil injection oil line(s). Check the jetpump cone oil (75w90 synthetic) and wear ring & impeller. All this prior to rideing the ski. Go over ALL
electrical connections, fuses & its holders, wire connectors and clean & dielectrical grease them. Listen closely to your engine when you 1st
start for starter smoothness, it may need new brushes & cleaned. Keep us posted.

 

[boljr01]

Finally getting going on this (new job, family drama, etc.). Anyway, yes, driveshaft turns. Ran a compression check and have ~150psi in each cylinder. I bought some fuel line and am starting to replace all the grey lines now. Also pulled the carbs off tonight and removed the internal fuel filters...mag carb filter a little dirty but the pto carb filter looked to be 80%+ clogged. Blew it out several times with compressed air which help quite a bit but I think I'll try to find some replacements. Based upon that finding, definitely plan to finish replacing all the grey lines and will also drain/clean the fuel tank and check the screen on the bottom of the pickup. Already checked/cleaned the primary fuel element which wasn't too awful bad. Is that about it for fuel or should I also remove and check the fuel selector valve?

Thanks all.

 

[Bills86e]

Definatly remove the selector. How to clean it is in the carb "Sticky" at forum top.

 

[Rebber4]

dont forget to check and clean the check valves thru the hull. My ski has 2 and neither one was working.

 

[boljr01]

Making some progress and a setback. I have removed and replaced all fuel lines, removed the fuel tank and scrubbed/rinsed/drained...it was a mess with a lot of dirt in the bottom. Also removed and drilled the fuel selector per Bills 'sticky'. Also did the one of the check valves (thanks Rebber4) and found it to be clogged with what I'd compare to 80w gear oil...still need to find/check the other one.

I also bought a rebuild kit for the carbs and have that all but completed....being the newb I am, I snaped off the pulse nipple while trying to remove the OEM clamp on the pulse line. Next chore will be locating a replacement carb plate.

 

[boljr01]

Update: found the carb plate and finished all carb/fuel work plus a complete RAVE rebuild w/new style. Ran good on the hose in driveway so dropped it in the lake today.

First run coming out of idle zone had good acceleration/rpm's and ran about 52mph...until I let off the accel then it would only go about 35mph. Brought it back in, looked it over, then took it out for another run. Same behavior..would get up and go on first run but as soon as I got off the accelerator she'd only run about half speed and rpm.

Any advice? Simple carb tuning or something more needed? Carb is set basically stock...HS closed, LS ~ 1 1/8 turn. Carbs are synched, no slack in accel cable and I synched the oil injection pump. Water reg also according to book @ 3 turns out.

 

[Bills86e]

Pinhole leak in rave line or bellows?

 

[boljr01]

Thanks Bill. I put new bellows in the RAVE's when I rebuilt them...old ones look fine but newer ones are a lot stiffer. I took it out again for a short run and its just very erratic. After the initial run is over it will not pick rpm's back up over ~ 4900 and its wavering between there and maybe 3000 with WOT. From throttle closed to about 1/2 its not bad; from about 1/2 to WOT it never really gains any more speed.

I'm starting to think fuel again, despite the fact I went through everything fuel related. Maybe I missed something. This thing has me scratching my head and cussing at this point.

 

[jerrygena]

it does sound like a fuel problem

 

[boljr01]

OK, before I tear my newly rebuilt carbs back off, is there any possibility this is electrical related? I have noticed I occasionally get a "12 volt low" message on the display despite having a new battery w/good voltage readings on the multimeter. I recall reading on here that this message may be indicative of a bad stator...assuming so, could this affect performance?

 

[Rebber4]

Did you ever figure out the problem?